Joker

I have a Fi Q 12" D1 in a 2.5cuft net enclosure ported at 32-33Hz via 2 3" flared Precision Aeroports sitting around. Also have a leftover Kicker ZX1000.1 to power it. Would like to hook this stuff up off my computer if possible , currently using a little 2.1 Boston Acoustics I got for free. Instead of spending money for a pc system I would rather make this stuff work if possible. What else do I need?

It really doesnt put out nothing below that , it already has a small enough pulley for the 4rib belt. I need more belt rap as it is. Forget I said it , thats my cars problem.

I run a little case 170amp alt (Acura Integra ls) , 2 XS D3100's relocated in the rear with Knu 1/0 wire. They are also my main starting batterys as I ditched the little 51R group size one under the hood. Running a single Sundown saz-3500d @ 1ohm , the voltage never drops below battery rest 12.9v-13.2v and usually is around 13.6v running full tilt. I keep them charged though but if I roll around with the amp off the batterys will stay pretty full , just charge to keep them topped off. I set the idle on the engine to 2,000rpms so the alt is putting out as much as possible at idle. Factory warm idle was 600rpm.

The progress videos are excellent, I'm learning alot. Thanks for posting them, peace.

Thanks , heres a pic of the idle temp. CPU Core temps are always about 10c-15c higher than CPU temp. This is at an overclock speed of 3.36Ghz (160 x 21), stock voltage , Vdimm voltage raised to 1.650 and ram running at 1600Mhz (8-8-8-24) , 2:10 .

3DMark06 @ 3.8Ghz+turbo = 25,232 - HT enabled

New 3DMark06 score @ 3.6Ghz+turbo = 23,888 - HT enabled , getting better .

Cost a little over 2 grand for everything , I am thinking of putting 6GB more ram in it for a total of 12GB. Forgot to mention I went with a Pioneer BDR-203 Blue-ray burner/player , have not tried burning anything but it plays Blue-rays so all is good there. Looks awesome with everything hooked up HDMI. The processor is D0 stepping , batch # 3910A314 / S-step: SLBEJ. I went into the bios and upped the qpi to 180 for 3.6Ghz + turbo (3.78Ghz) , VCore voltage I upped .07500 but it booted at default 1.2100 . Basicly a 1Ghz increase , run it on Prime95 on 8 threads stressing it 99.x % for a while and it got to a max of 74c on one of the CPU core temps but most of the time it was about 71c on all 4 cores . CPU temp rose to 58c at max and never increased. Ambeint room temp was 26c. Also run it on MemTest for an hour , run 8 instances of 562 each and had zero errors.

Did a little foolin around with some settings and then run it on 3DMark06 again . From the 21,338 score .. I set Vista at performance setting vs. energy savings & went and set the graphics card to performance rather than quality (visuals still look good at this setting imo). Results where a little better at 21,364 . I've read disabling HT will boost the score so I went into the bios and turned it off. Everything exactly the same as before otherwise , the results where 21,927.

Final build pics , side fan isn't hooked up at the moment though. Cpu temp is really good with only one fan installed. I have seen it as low as 24c idling . Pretty much stays at ambient room temp at idle . I have not run any serious stress tests yet to see where it goes under 100% load . Core temps are in the 35-40c range at idle. I have it slightly overclocked running at 3.2Ghz + turbo enabled so 3.36Ghz. Ram running at 1600mhz. Run it on 3DMark06 to see what it has , stock 2.67Ghz + turbo enabled. Ram not even set right , just running at default 1067mhz it did 17,903. Overclocked to 3.2+turbo / ram set at 1600 it did 21,338. Pretty happy with it , runs really quiet .. almost silent. Surprised me with all the case fans it has.

Powersupply showed up so I started putting it together. Getting a feel for where and how I am going to run my wiring. Clearance around the EVGA X58 motherboard. Still have a fan coming to go on this cooler.

More parts EVGA X58 SLI [132-BL-E758-A1] Ram i7 920 D0 Cold cathode tubes Artic Silver 5 Prolimatech Megahalems CPU cooler , super nice piece Other GPU come in

Painted my NZXT Tempest case , replacing all (4 total) of the 120mm case fans with green led Cooler Master R4-L2R-20CG-GP (2,000rpm - 90cfm - 19db). And I will have 2 more to go on the cpu cooler. Pretty sure one will fit on the cpu cooler but I ordered extra fan clips to see if it will work for a push/pull configuration. Enuff with the talk , heres how it looks so far.. And one of the graphics cards come in.. More to come as parts arrive.

Acer H233Hbmid http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16824009162 Purchased mine late Apr / early May of this year . Pulled it out of the box and hooked it up , been working ever since. No dead pixels , 3 year warranty and alot of cable hookups included. Very clear picture , I am happy with it so far. EVGA X58 SLI [132-BL-E758-A1] http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813188039 Went ahead and purchased this motherboard , looked like a good deal with the lifetime warranty.

Changing it up some , going to use 2 GPU's [bFG GTX 280 OC] so I am looking for a good SLI motherboard now. I like what I see from EVGA {lifetime warranty , supposedly great customer service , and it seems alot of the serious overclockers of the i7 use them. Since I am going with 2 decent video cards , do you think I should get a 1k watt powersupply instead of the 850watt ? I like what I read on reveiws on the Corsair brand powersupplys {good internal build quality and parts used , not crowded so offers good cooling , and they have good length warranty}. The 1k watt is modular so that is a plus from there TX850watt , looking for an efficent unit that does rated power and lasts really. Memory I know I have to use triple channel DDR3 , what I didnt know is to use at least 3gb and to fill up at least 3 slots for it to function right. Meaning if I only run 3gb's .. better to get 3 x 1gb sticks. I plan to use 6gb 3 x 2gb sticks. Just want to make sure the brand and speed is correct for the motherboard before I jump in and order stuff I will regret. You guys know alot more than me , Im trying to keep up. I researched the heck out of CPU coolers and come to the conclusion I want to run the Prolimatech Megahalems with 2 good cfm / low db 120mm fans , one a push and one a pull. Thinking of 2 Yate Loon's or 2 Scythe Slipstream.

Will do then on the Windows 7. Ordered a different GPU than I have listed , other didnt have HDMI hookup so I looked and found a BFG GTX 280 OC . Had the HDMI hookup and a lifetime warranty. Same 1GB / 512bit / 240 stream processors.

Current system was built in '05-'06 Mobo - Asus P5N-E SLI CPU - Intel Pentium 4 HT 630 Prescott @ 3.75Ghz - 24/7 (38c idle - 55-57c 100% Prime95 @ 26c ambient , stock voltage) CPU Cooler - Artic Cooler Freezer 7 Pro - 92mm Ram - 2 GB Mushkin EM2-5300 (PC2-5300) DDR2 @ 800mhz PSU - Ultra 600watt GPU - x2 PNY Verto GeForce 7800 GT (256MB ) HDD - Maxtor Sata 250 GB Case - Basic smaller mid tower OS - Microsoft Windows XP SP3 Home Edition 32-bit New system plans Mobo - EVGA X58 SLI [132-BL-E758-A1] CPU - Intel Core i7 920 CPU Cooler - Prolimatech Megahalems Ram - 6 GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer (PC3-12800) Tri-Channel DDR3 PSU - Corsair HX1000 GPU - x2 BFG Tech Geforce GTX 280 OC HDD - Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB Case - NZXT Tempest Monitor - Acer H233H 23" HDMI 1080p lcd OS - Windows 7 Professional 64-bit I will try to update this with pictures as parts come in .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oArzG2zGXj4

Take a bar of soap and with the engine running ease the soap on the underside of the belt.

I was space limited with my old box and went with (2) flared 3" Precision Aeroport kits. 2.5cuft net box for (1) 12" Fi Q on rated power , tuned to 32-33Hz. Most of the time it sounded really clean and loud but on certain tones / songs I could clearly hear port noise.

Subsonic is all the way down . I played with it some more with the volume barely up after about a minute the amp now went into protection mode. Turn it off and back on the proctection light is off . First time its done this so I am not playing with it no more.

Alright I simply removed the + / - from the new box and setup a stand behind the car and hooked up my Fi Q 12" . Turned on the car and slowly turned the volume up , let it play for a little bit to warm up. Turned it down and then switched tracks and turned the volume up quicker, let it play for a bit. I went through the whole CD I had in the deck just letting it play. Everything is working like it should. I remove the speaker + / - off the Fi 12" Q and rehook it up to the new Fi 18" BTL and the sub plays but freaks out . How possible is it I receieved a bad sub?

I removed the remote wire from the HU going to the sub amp and went and bought a heavyduty switch and inline fuse and run it directly off the 2 new xs d3100 batteries I have infront of the box . Now the remote voltage reading at the amp is 14.1-.2 Weird thing happening though , with the subsonic set and the lpf set I can be playing some jams and then all of a sudden it freaks out . The blue led showing power to the amp cuts off and back on , so quick if your not looking for it you will miss it . At this time the sub makes some electrical interferance noise and excursies outward and back in. Now that its wired directly off the switch I just turn it off and it quits. I can turn the amp back on and itll play just fine until it freaks out again. So I turned the subsonic completely down and the lpf all the way up and it doesn't have any problems, bangs hard my damn front windsheild and roof is moving, mirrors about to fall off etc. The voltage is dropping under full volume no lower than 13.2volts at idle and goes up to 13.9v when I slightly keep it reved so the batteries are doing there job. Any ideas on this ? The Hu is set just like I run my old 12 without problem for over a year and the sub still works like new. The Hu is set to 80Hz on the lpf . I set the gain with a 40Hz tone at 3/4 volume at 56volts just until my o-scope gets here.

It's working good now , I went ahead and pulled the sub to make sure I wired it right and to move the wires away from each other (+ / - where they meet at the posts) Upgraded the remote wire size , pretty sure thats what was wrong with the popping. Amp was cutting off and back on , had a loose remote wire connection at the HU. When I put the HU in I must have knocked it loose. Thanks for the help. I am getting 13.3-.4volts at the source reading off the amp and the power wire is reading 14.3-.4volts at the same time , engine on. Shouldn't the source be higher than that?

Nah I am not going to lie , I hooked it up ass backwards. I have it reading 1.1-1.2 ohm according to the dmm now. Yes , that's how I wired it up.