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Posts posted by hamel52
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i wish i could pick up something better just don't have the funds i have a baby boy about to be born within the next week. im only 19 just trying to make things work but i wanted to keep some car audio just 1 nice 12 i picked up for a good deal a while back so its hard right now man.
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yeah im for sure asking about that cuz its pretty bs not to mention my time is money. guess this project will just be on hold for another month until i get an amp that actually works.
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alright man well thanks for the input guess ill have to call those fucks again on monday.
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yeah i figured it was just a defect as well but i mean i already sent one in and got another new one what are the chances that i could get 2 defective amps. and now they are ripping me off because i have to pay shipping back to them again not to mention time, it took over a month to get this amp after sending in my defective one. this is such bs man.
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i have a new mb quart dcs 1500 and it turns on but it wont work. let me explain everything about my setup just so someone can help me.
Big 3 done in knu 1/0
power and ground done in 2 gauge welding cable
150 amp anl stinger fuse and fuse holder
pioneer DEH P480MP head unit
Custom 12in woofer made by ssackett rated 1500rms its dual 2ohm coils, have them wired parallel to 1ohm which is perfect for the amp.
and 1991 cadillac seville with 120amp alternator
So everything turns on the amp turns on its in power mode not in protect, but no matter what i do the sub will not play, and i know the sub works since i hooked it up to my friends amp once already to make sure and both coils read a perfect 2.0 on the DMM. I dont know what to do i've tested the RCA's even tried a different pair of RCA's. also this is a brand new amp from sonic electronics. its the 2nd one i have got because this same thing happened to me a month ago and i just sent the amp back for a replacement thinking it was a defect. Thank you to anyone who can help me i appreciate it alot.
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try a different web browser
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i would download the torres calc man its pretty simple and easy right here on the forum you should try it i'd go 3.5-4 cubes tuned to about 34hz i had the same subs and set up and it pounded try about a 4in port tuned to 34 and you will have the right amount of port area and it will sound real nice, good luck
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you could get a dc lvl4xl 10 for probably around 350$ they will do 1500rms easily, only need 1.25- 1.5 cubes in a ported enclosure so you could most likely fit that between your seats if your interested in that i would talk to rusty here on the forum and i know that would get really loud too. good luck
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two btl 12's would be much louder than your one 15 bl no matter what car you have or how your subs are facing i mean more cone area + more powerful sub motor, roughly 4x the amount of watts rms, bigger magnets, + them being powered correctly = louder haha thats just my opinion
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just get the 1 12 it will be less box volume you need, port it around 34hz and you will be loud if its set up right plus u save 500 bucks thats hard to beat good luck
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if you can build the right box and have the right amp i think you will like the btl thing is a beast can easily handle over 2000rms daily
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thanks man thats what i figured just wanted to be sure
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when the specs say 3 to 5 cubes does it want that as the gross volume or the net volume?
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might want to check your inline fuse and see if it popped somehow
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ive had great results in a caddy firing port and subs back with 6x9s removed, 1/2 rear deck cutout out and the armrest cutout
physically putting ports thru the rear deck is best when firing the subs forward... not when the subs are still contained in the trunk, this usually sounds bad because not all the sound is produced by the port... so u will miss out on some/cause cancellation when u dont have both the speaker wave and port wave interacting
the idea behind firing it back is that it gives more distance between you and the speaker for the sound waves to form... some being 30ft+ long u "hear" them more the more time u give them to expand... this principal is used for the loudest drive-by spl guys... they want their waves to expand 6ft outside of the car... but we want as many waves in our car as possible
i have a caddy as well with the arm rest cut out, never tried cutting out any of the rear deck, what kind of caddy do you have i have a 91 seville. did that rear deck cut out make any difference for you?
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i've experimented with some of the same things since my seats don't fold down either and i've found it to sound better with the subs firing towards the trunk not the seats. not sure of the exact science behind it and the sound bouncing off the trunk rather than being absorbed by the seats... idk but its always sounded better towards the trunk for me.
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No body is looking for some HC800's? Still here!
if these are still around by monday i might have to take u up on that offer thats when i get paid they look real nice man
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ok well ive decided that i want to upgrade my 4 10" Alpine type s's to the 10" type r's.... and im going to need to double my power...
i have a few options in my mind....
the first one would be to just get another mrp-m1000=$320ish
or i could sell it and choose from a couple other amps...... i will order my subs at the same time so i will be able to choose between the d2 and d4 models....
im wanting to have 2000wrms on hand and i want to stay at or around(preferably under) the $320 mark... so here is what im trying to decide between
Hifonics bxi2010 2000rms@1ohm=$300
power acoustik A3000bd 2300rms@1ohm=$290
ive dealt with the brutus series amps before and they seem to be fine.... but ive never dealt with the power acoustik....
let me know what you think?
if i was you i would stick with the alpine all around im bumping 2 12" type r's off the alpine pdx 1.1000 sounds great so if i was you id just go for that extra alpine mrp 1000 i think that'd be sick and with the right box you will be slamming man
having amp problems I need help
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
while i was driving to work the sub turned on cuz i still have it hooked up and i bumped for about 2 min and it shut off and wont turn back on now.... idk if its defective or what