lanman31337
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Posts posted by lanman31337
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Technically, with a good solid big 3, it doesn't matter if you do the alternator casing or the battery. Both *should* net the same result, but most people do it at the battery so they can run distro blocks for multiple runs.
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Sorry about that Newls, I'm seeing the picture now. Your positive runs are golden. The only thing I'd do is run two runs of 1/0 from the front battery to the rear batteries. Everything else will be superb. Now if you really want to get fancy, some guys run even more runs for even less resistance, but that's extra money.
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When you say two runs, do you mean one pos and one neg, or do you mean two 1/0 for pos and two 1/0 for negative?
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Talk to me about the equipment you plan on using first please.
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I would do 2 runs of 1/0 to the back batteries. That should be good for your setup. Also, I'd keep the ground points nearly identical to eliminate the possibility of a ground loop.
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What kind of amp is it?
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I've got a CS-144D in my 97 Sunfire. I removed the stock bracket that bolted to the motor, and there's 2 ears that the alternator bolts to perfectly.
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It could definitely be the amp, it's happened before.
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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=51975
Check this thread out, it should have everything covered.
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No. There are cars that come stock like that.
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With different ground locations, especially ones that vary in resistance, it brings in the possibility for a ground loop. Common ground points are better than grounds all over god's creation.
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It makes perfect sense (my amp just did the same, except outputs were also cooked). The remote circuit gets shorted somehow, whether something internal shorts across or the remote lead touches a constant 12 volt source, and it stays on.
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Will 50 feet be enough for a run of positive and negative from up front? Is your wire 1 gauge or 1/0, there is a difference. You'll be fine with a 250-300 amp alternator.
I have 8 gauge wire going to my subs.
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I love my separate equalizer. It's nice to be able to adjust the bass on it for midbass and not worry about overdriving the subs.
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Those scratches will buff right out... after some paint and clear coat!
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Hi Ben! Well, Ben and myself have used the older Optidrive subs, and they move some air, take some power. You can see in my sig I'm running 4.
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Probably the chemicals that they use and price. Seafoam can be put right into a vacuum line for the intake as well as an oil treatment. I HIGHLY recommend if you're using it in the oil, you put it in right before you do an oil change, let the car run for maybe 10 minutes, then change the oil.
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Save yourself some cash money the next time. Go to your favorite auto store and get some seafoam. You can thank me later on this.
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If they perform as well as the older model did, they're going to do very well.
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Tag, i'm it. So your internet service provider gives you a lease on your IP. It might be 3 hours, 2 hours, 24 hours, 3 days, but what happens is it takes that IP and then gives you a new one. Only exception is if you buy a dedicated line, like a T line, or the ever so tasty OC line.
Without a router, you'll connect directly to the internet with this IP.
With a router there's a little twist. See what happens is you have your line in from the internet, and then the line to your computer. Your router says OK, i have X amount of computers. I'm going to take your external IP (the one your ISP gave you) and I'm going to break it up for the X amount of computers so they all can connect. I'm going to NAT (network address translation) some IPs for you. Most of your routers are going to be a 192.168 - that's the standard class C NAT addressing. So internally you'll have 192.168.1.xxx for your computers, xxx being from 2 to 254 (1 is reserved for the router, 255 is reserved for subnetting)
Back to your router, your "always on" means just that. Disable means you can turn it off, and shut off during inactivity means if no packets are being transferred, it goes into a sleep mode.
and lanman = local area network man
i live and breathe networking, hardware and software daily for my work. -
Ok I see a silver wire, that goes to your battery? Then I see something with a grey connector in loom, that's your plug for the alt I'm guessing?
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That thing on the left, you can actually snip it.
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Not a comet, was a Maverick actually. Not my car, and in the back you'll see the 64 impala, again not mine.
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That shit dont' grow back. 1300 bucks after deductable. It'll be enough for a full repaint, new rear bumper, new side skirts, shaving the trunk deck.
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i live and breathe networking, hardware and software daily for my work.
My battery charging question, please come inside!
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
As long as it doesn't go over 15 volts you should be good. Vented lead acid batteries can charge higher, but not sealed or agm. You can leave the battery bank connected all together.