lanman31337
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Posts posted by lanman31337
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Ground your head unit to your amp.
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If all you have is a standard battery, it might. Standard starting batteries are not designed to be continuously discharged. Say you have a 500 CCA battery and you draw 1 amp/hour from it, you would think that you could run for a maximum of 500 hours. But in reality, you would be lucky to get 5 hours. I know from first hand experience.
CCA and aH are two completely different animals.
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Try a better set of RCAs, go from the HU straight to the amp, clean your grounds.
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For those of you wondering about the tweets, check it. Buy a set of 8. Have an array of tweets, 4 per side, it would give you your final ohms load of 4 ohms per side, cross em over, and enjoy. I've bought them before in the past and used them in triples for some home theater setups per side. You have a tweeter firing forward, then one aiming angled towards the left, one towards the right. It makes the array more spread out and imaging is a lot better instead of having to sit dead in front of the speaker to get the highs aimed at you. They're small enough you can sneak them down at a kick or across the dash and sound crisp, not harsh.
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I used to have one of those EQ's, absolutely loved it.
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Have you tried running from the HU to the amp without plugging into the EQ?
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Did the shop try a new head unit? Do you have the noise with an mp3 player hooked up in the rcas going to the eq/amps?
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Start with the stock ground for the radio. You're running an aftermarket setup, so ground the head unit, the eq, and the amp to one central clean spot. VERY clean setup for the eq by the way. Another trick, since you're running some wires, once you get them to the back, twist them around to make it a little neater.
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Absolutely. Get a multimeter, set it to turn caps lock off, then turn it to ohms. You'll want less than .5 ohms from point to point if you can.
First, run a dedicated ground to the rear battery to feed your head unit.
Does your EQ have constant, remote and ground, or just ignition and ground?
The factory tire jack housing is piss poor too. You need clean chassis, not things that are just tack welded onto the body.
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His problem looks to be bad grounds, which should be fixed first.
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Just by chance did you try to ground your radio to where your amp ground is?
also if you have 2 battery's is each battery ground to a different location?
if so have you tried running a ground wire from main battery to Back battery?
I was told by a friend a long time ago that if you have ground noise that you should move all your grounds to 1 point and that will eliminate ground loop noise.
just a few thoughts anyway..hope you get it figured out, I know its a pain in the ass.
Everything is grounded at the rear battery
Rear battery has 3/0 going to the front battery, and a 1/0 run that goes to the motor. The main ground off of the front battery also goes to the motor.
Everything is at one central point.
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Hook up an mp3 player directly to the amps, is there any noise? Remove the second battery from the charging system and use it to power up the amps (just for testing), does the noise go away once they are being powered by the battery alone and not being grounded through the chassis? Unplug the speaker wires from the amp, and just run a short wire from the amp to a random speaker, does it still have the same noise issue? The only way to find the source is the issue is to logically go step by step through the signal chain and see where the weak link is. post pics... post vid with noise.. I understand how frustrated you must be, hang in there bro!
With the MP3 player hooked up, no noise. I used my jump pack to power my radio, no noise. Everything is grounded right at the rear battery. The 4 channel amp, the equalizer, and the head unit. All grounds up front have been cleaned and triple checked for resistance.
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Ebay. Came to about 11 dollars shipped, the only 4 channel one I've seen. Looks like it uses two transformers in one package so I won't lose my fader. Only use one of these as a last resort, only when you've ruled out every other last factor.
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Noise when you turn on headlights and certain things most definitely sounds like a bad ground. Your seat belt bolt is one of the shittiest places to ground things. You'd be better off grounding your eq off of the tip of your wang than your seat belt bolt. Move that ground to a better location. Next, find a better location for the power of the equalizer. Where is your head unit grounded? Where are your amps grounded? Do you have a 2nd battery?
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General rule of thumb is no more than 6 inches from your woofer to prevent the woofer delay.
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You need a transformer based one. I don't know how the cheap ones work but the good ones actually electrically isolate the source from the device. This prevents the difference in potential between the 2 that creates the ground loop. Blocks DC but not AC (i.e. music) so it won't affect your midbass at all.
The one I ordered looks like has 2 transformers with it, it's a 4 channel isolator.
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Guys, if you read through, everything you've suggested has been done on post #1. I think this is one of the rare few situations where the ground loop isolator is needed.
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I lied. I fired it up again, and the noise is there. Time to try a ground loop isolator.
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Time to shit bricks ladies and gentlemen. I put a Radio Shack noise filter in my constant power line. There is no more noise. Zero at all. My noise filter cherry has been popped. I've never ever ever had to use one on car audio.
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SVR. I've seen some failures with the red and yellow tops with some of the guys on the J-body forum, more than usual in the past year or two, and I've had a few failed red, yellow, and blues.
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Give me a schematic of what all you have. List it out from source back to the speakers.
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Try grounds first. Those are used as a last resort.
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Where is your EQ grounded at? Ground it at the same place as the head unit, or try grounding it as the same place as your amp.
think 2ga is enough
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Get some welding wire, you can get it inexpensively and it's flexible.
http://www.cableyard.com/catalog/product_i...;products_id=32
1.74 a foot for copper 1/0