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Gotz1lung

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Posts posted by Gotz1lung

  1. i have these speakers in my garage so, imma go ahead and use them.. not gonna be playing loud anyways, just gonna be playing oldies. :friends:

    Well if thats the case, mount the amps in a Juke Box looking fixture in the center, Subs on each side in ported boxes with a 19in moniter in the floor to watch Grease on...:)

  2. I just wanted a quick way so multiple strips, takin one out each time worked great. I think all that drilling holes does is help draw in the resin. I just made a box with a kerf port i tried to drill holes for the resin but it got to be a hassle. i had to hold the wood bent to drill the holes too. i also backed the kerf with a layer of fiberglass

    heres a link to the build i just did

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...mp;#entry629336

    That build is the reason Im doing this..LMFAO! I was counting minutes for it to dry so youd post more pics..hahahaha

  3. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=23110

    heres a link to a thread i made on *** about bending mdf

    Nice tutorial... I would have never thought of doing the Mutiple strip at the correct width of each cut.

    here is what I read when I started designing this is off of ROE

    a 90 degree flair involves 10 cuts with a standard 1/8" width blade.

    http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o239/hu...eighths3inh.jpg

    moved fence on my saw 1/2 at a time, gives a 3.5" flair

    http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o239/hu...ndahalfinch.jpg

    moved fence on my saw 3/4 at a time, gives a 4" flair

    http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o239/hu...uarter4inch.jpg

    moved fence 1/2 inch at a time, made 20 cuts all together. 6" radius

    http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o239/hu...6inchradius.jpg

    Nice close ups.. Thank you

    It looks as if I might be able to pull this off.. Does drilling holes in the cuts help that much more for strength. Ill prolly use resin instead of glue to fill with. It makes sense, air out resin in, and each one of those holes adds to the bondable face area...

  4. Ok, So after much thought and debate, i just cant see walling my truck with only 4 woofers, so i have a basic retangle box at 20x62x20 in mind and i really want to try a Kerf'd box for this build.

    My questions:

    How do i figure the port area when both ends Flare out?the port needs to be 18.5x8x10 to get my 37hz tuning, but if im figuring this the way i think its done, the acual port length that isnt kerfed would only be 3.25inches long

    How do i measure for the kerfs to Get different radius'? I need to make a 90* within 3-4ins, is that way to tight of a bend for the MDF?

    Sorry for so many questions, if this was sheet metal i d have no problems...hahahaha

    Ill redraw the box to clean up all my "oops" lines and scan it in for you guys to see what im talking about. its subs forward/port up BTW.

  5. im looking for some carbon fiber mids and highs what companys make them and what do you think i sould get of those post pis plz

    THe Ones on the left are Memphis MClass 6.5s Carbon Fiber Cone, Swivel mount tweeter. Comes with a HP/LP crossover for each Speaker as well.

    100_0335.jpg

  6. Having experienced an AMAZING wall of 4 12's today, you know what my vote is

    PUTAFUGGINWALLINIT!!!!

    What 4 12s walled did you get to hear? any vid links?

    Yeah, get more 12s and wall it :D

    6 is pretty wall-worthy in itself, 4 is just kinda weak IMO unless it's a tiny car and they're insane 12's

    Think my 1500.1 will push 6 of em? thats only 1500 between 6 so whats that give em each..225-250 tops?

  7. phase shift is NOT 180* from the port being rear firing.

    Doesnt really matter now, the box didnt fit the way i wanted, i am actually re workng the front of the box. the original plan left the subs slapping the platic trim at the rear most of the trunk. I totally didnt see that pesky trunk spring hanging down a good inch into the box so it couldnt go back far enough.. Oh well, gives me more time to play with power tools..lmao

  8. Wall it now... Get better subs in the future and be even more happy! not saying the subs wont do good now Im just not a PA fan. Wall it and see how it does. Walls are awesome in pickup trucks!

    To be honest, im not a PA fan either.. I got the first 3 in a big mess up, but the 2 i have did a 142 on an acient ass Linear mic so i dont know if thats a good number compared to the TL #s or not.

  9. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=43861

    At the bottom is My Door Pod build, I hope there are some pics in there to help you visually..

    I attached mine from the back, threw the plastic into the pod back-plate with Wood Screws/Glue. I didnt happen to get a non-blurred pic so there is no reference but i did run a piece of the 3M double sided bumper trim tape around the edges where it will contact the plastic. I didnt peel it yet cuzz i gotta take em off to trim out obviously but thatll help "stick" it some as well.

  10. So during Amp mock up, it showed moving the subs to top isnt going to be an option if it sounds like a wet fart, so, I can add a U shaped piec to the speaker side of the port to force the air to round the back of the box to exit the port., so what do you guys think? And will the U add to the length of the port(effect tuned hz) even tho its just the 3 sides??

    Like this kinda.

    WTF.jpg

  11. that box nice as hell.

    good job. I haven't seen JL 15 tho.

    how old are they?

    They are JL 15w-0's, the first versions... I dont see a year on JLs site, but they are deffinatly under the DISCONTINUED section..lol

    Nevermind, at the bottom right...02/2003

    http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10_12_15W0_MAN.pdf

    THANKS for all the props too, im no where near as worthy as some of the crafstmen on this site, but i can say the get better with each one, and easier too..lol

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