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Posts posted by Gotz1lung
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So thanks for all the help first..
Second, im going to have a few weeks as of right now to work on this build since i Blew a Sub yesterday. So can someone do me the favor of Double checking my math on this. Im gonna be 75-100$ down on budget now with the sub issue so i cant afford to do this more than once.
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I just wanted a quick way so multiple strips, takin one out each time worked great. I think all that drilling holes does is help draw in the resin. I just made a box with a kerf port i tried to drill holes for the resin but it got to be a hassle. i had to hold the wood bent to drill the holes too. i also backed the kerf with a layer of fiberglass
heres a link to the build i just did
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...mp;#entry629336
That build is the reason Im doing this..LMFAO! I was counting minutes for it to dry so youd post more pics..hahahaha
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http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=23110
heres a link to a thread i made on *** about bending mdf
Nice tutorial... I would have never thought of doing the Mutiple strip at the correct width of each cut.
here is what I read when I started designing this is off of ROEa 90 degree flair involves 10 cuts with a standard 1/8" width blade.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o239/hu...eighths3inh.jpg
moved fence on my saw 1/2 at a time, gives a 3.5" flair
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o239/hu...ndahalfinch.jpg
moved fence on my saw 3/4 at a time, gives a 4" flair
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o239/hu...uarter4inch.jpg
moved fence 1/2 inch at a time, made 20 cuts all together. 6" radius
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o239/hu...6inchradius.jpg
Nice close ups.. Thank you
It looks as if I might be able to pull this off.. Does drilling holes in the cuts help that much more for strength. Ill prolly use resin instead of glue to fill with. It makes sense, air out resin in, and each one of those holes adds to the bondable face area...
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My Sierra is 62 3/8 from cab panel to cab panel with the seat brackets removed. Its damn near 80 threw the pocket to the sheetmetal..
So from your example its gonna add 10in to the total length and 10in to each side of the port as far as area???
Thanks for the sketch BTW!
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Ok, So after much thought and debate, i just cant see walling my truck with only 4 woofers, so i have a basic retangle box at 20x62x20 in mind and i really want to try a Kerf'd box for this build.
My questions:
How do i figure the port area when both ends Flare out?the port needs to be 18.5x8x10 to get my 37hz tuning, but if im figuring this the way i think its done, the acual port length that isnt kerfed would only be 3.25inches long
How do i measure for the kerfs to Get different radius'? I need to make a 90* within 3-4ins, is that way to tight of a bend for the MDF?
Sorry for so many questions, if this was sheet metal i d have no problems...hahahaha
Ill redraw the box to clean up all my "oops" lines and scan it in for you guys to see what im talking about. its subs forward/port up BTW.
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im looking for some carbon fiber mids and highs what companys make them and what do you think i sould get of those post pis plz
THe Ones on the left are Memphis MClass 6.5s Carbon Fiber Cone, Swivel mount tweeter. Comes with a HP/LP crossover for each Speaker as well.
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Having experienced an AMAZING wall of 4 12's today, you know what my vote is
PUTAFUGGINWALLINIT!!!!
What 4 12s walled did you get to hear? any vid links?
Yeah, get more 12s and wall it6 is pretty wall-worthy in itself, 4 is just kinda weak IMO unless it's a tiny car and they're insane 12's
Think my 1500.1 will push 6 of em? thats only 1500 between 6 so whats that give em each..225-250 tops?
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phase shift is NOT 180* from the port being rear firing.
Doesnt really matter now, the box didnt fit the way i wanted, i am actually re workng the front of the box. the original plan left the subs slapping the platic trim at the rear most of the trunk. I totally didnt see that pesky trunk spring hanging down a good inch into the box so it couldnt go back far enough.. Oh well, gives me more time to play with power tools..lmao
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why wall 4 12's? it'll be a pain in the ass
Got 4 18s to donate?? Ill be more than happy to wall them..lmao
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Wall it now... Get better subs in the future and be even more happy! not saying the subs wont do good now Im just not a PA fan. Wall it and see how it does. Walls are awesome in pickup trucks!
To be honest, im not a PA fan either.. I got the first 3 in a big mess up, but the 2 i have did a 142 on an acient ass Linear mic so i dont know if thats a good number compared to the TL #s or not.
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2 to 1 so far.. and man i gotta gansta lean towards a wall myself, but lets see what the people of SMD vote...
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94 GMC Sierra XC
4 Power Acoustik Fubar 12w's
So should i wall it off or am i going to get just as much out of it with a good below the window designed enclosure.
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It in Inches.. Exosprt is the one who made it, it DL-able from his thread. Good luck and get us some pics!
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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=43861
At the bottom is My Door Pod build, I hope there are some pics in there to help you visually..
I attached mine from the back, threw the plastic into the pod back-plate with Wood Screws/Glue. I didnt happen to get a non-blurred pic so there is no reference but i did run a piece of the 3M double sided bumper trim tape around the edges where it will contact the plastic. I didnt peel it yet cuzz i gotta take em off to trim out obviously but thatll help "stick" it some as well.
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I forgot to mention, I only Checked on kickers site and counted for Sub displacment.. according to the max reccomended port enclosure...(blah blah) you have .65ft^3 to add in bracing, and that should put you at your wanted 38hz tuning.. or damn close to it.
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hey guys please help before i do any more with my build.
i am using 2 kicker cvr 12" subs in a ported box and the box that i've drawn up is around 5.2 cubic feet. is this too big or too small, ported with a slot port still to be determined at 38 hz.
quick replies please, gotta continue the build while im off work...
Gimme 10 and check back, ill have some thin for ya
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Barrrffff!
Space balls MFTFW!!!
Looks clean as all get-out. I bet the Kid is gonna love the trips now!
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ttt for the night crowd..
Any thoughts on the add-on in my previous post?? Thanks Ahead of Time for any input...
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So during Amp mock up, it showed moving the subs to top isnt going to be an option if it sounds like a wet fart, so, I can add a U shaped piec to the speaker side of the port to force the air to round the back of the box to exit the port., so what do you guys think? And will the U add to the length of the port(effect tuned hz) even tho its just the 3 sides??
Like this kinda.
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that box nice as hell.
good job. I haven't seen JL 15 tho.
how old are they?
They are JL 15w-0's, the first versions... I dont see a year on JLs site, but they are deffinatly under the DISCONTINUED section..lol
Nevermind, at the bottom right...02/2003
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10_12_15W0_MAN.pdf
THANKS for all the props too, im no where near as worthy as some of the crafstmen on this site, but i can say the get better with each one, and easier too..lol
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The Box is all wrapped up, good to go.
I also picked him up a set of Memphis SE tweets to go with his pioneer mids.
Sorry bout the pic, from my cell waiting on the AAs to charge for the Dig Cam.
1954 Bel Air Trunk
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Well if thats the case, mount the amps in a Juke Box looking fixture in the center, Subs on each side in ported boxes with a 19in moniter in the floor to watch Grease on...