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mhuck123

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Posts posted by mhuck123

  1. If volume is equal does box shape matter?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Thanks guys, very helpful. I'm loading only 2 subs and port in the middle. The rear of the box will be equal on each side just the sides are not square. The front and back will be. It will be a little like Jared420's with a 6 Cu ft box connected to a 10 Cu ft box. The odd shape comes from the larger box being taller and the sides will have to be fiberglassed around the wheel wells. Sounds good so far.

  3. If volume is equal does box shape matter?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    OK, I searched the forum and could not come up with an answer so please all the box building champs in here unite!! :drunk: I have a box I'm designing and I can get the rec. airspace but to do so it will take an extreme amount of fiberglass and a unique shaped box. It will be in a trunk car but the woofer will be in a half wall. The box will be longer than it will be wide and I have heard in the past may people recommend this but not sure why? Also the only way I can get the port to fit will be woofers forward port up.

    So #1 Does the shape make a huge difference and why?

    #2 port placement-Is woofers forward port up OK or is there a louder more efficient way? BTW I can actuall do something really crazy with the ports and have them wrap around outside the box and fire at the sides as well if that would be even better. Hell it would actually be easier to do!

    I know we have some crazy boxbuilders so what do you have!!!!

  4. Wire too big...

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    This is a Reducuer

    http://www.darvex.com/SPT821/Stinger+0+-+4...ge+Reducer.html

    And the zip tie trick is you take a zip tie, and put it near the end of the cable that is stripped back, and you pull the zip tie tight therefor sqeezing the strands together, so it is easier to fit the wire in a smaller hole.

    GYA!!!! that's the one. But what about for speaker terminals? Even on my Zapco 9.0 I can't fit 8 in it and 10 with a terminal has to be trimmed to fit WTF!!!!

  5. Wire too big...

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    So, I finaly got all my wires ran. I go to hook my new RF T1000 up, and the freaking wires won't fit, so I have to cut the wire basicaly in half to get it to fit. Is this bad? I kinda just "shaved" alot of the outside wire, for both my power and ground. Should I use a distro block? If so, anyone got a good price and brand that'll get the job done?

    I was just thinking about this today! I know they make something for power wire to go from lets say a 1/0 to a 2 or 4 gauge but I have never seen it for speaker wires. I'd love a 4 to 8 gauge! also a lot of amps have screw terminals which those items I spoke of earlier won't work on.

    Someone please help this man!!!

  6. most exspensive sub youve seen.

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by mhuck123

    I don't know if this is still considered a subwoofer.

    Cost's $12,900

    Here

    This thing is crazy! Guess it makes sence though since a sub is just an air pump basically. I'd use it in the home theatre but I'm too cheap!

    Anyone remember that crazy ass sub Phoenix Gold had that was a fan like that? It was more like a supercharger in a plexi tube and it was supposed to get REAL low. :search:

    EDIT:Founded it!!!!

    Phoenix gold cyclone

  10. A little build log

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    I think it is too streaky. almost looks like a skunk

    Uh so you caught that......... :01nocomment8so: Had a few issues with the gun so I'm going to respray the black but I'm putting her together first since I don't need it torn down anymore to respray.

    you missed a dent lol. But the paint job looks real sick man, ppl are gonna think ur rollin in a Maybach haha, u need to put that emblem on there to finish it off. And trust me i know how hard it is to pull off a flat paint job..but its all in the prep.

    I actually did miss one on the front passenger side fender but there is a reason for that :D

    wow that look sexy nice job on ur first tym doin paint bro

    Thanks, as you can see from my quotes i have to re do the black but overall it's not too bad for a first timer. The black is definately tempermental but i have a new gun to re shoot it and it will go real easy.

  13. A little build log

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    Alright, got a little update. Things have been crazy so I was delayed in spraying her down and even more delayed in getting the pics up. It would be even worse if I didn't the iphone cuz I ALWAYS forget the camera!!!

    5249090054_large.jpg

    A little flat black

    5249090055_large.jpg

    In the booth waiting to cure.

    5249090058_large.jpg

    Don't mind how dirty the rest of the car is!!

    5249090057_large.jpg

    A little side shot

    5249090056_large.jpg

    Rear shot

    I like the overall look but it came out a little streaky. I've seen a lot of flat paint jobs like that and there is no way I'm gonna leave it like that. As soon as I put the rest of the car together I'm gonna re spray the rest again but it's sexy for now!

  17. A little build log

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    I just don't have the stones to do paint myself. So- mad props to you! :D

    My dad has all the equipment and space to do it too... I am just afraid. So, the whole thing is gonna' be murdered out flat black- no chrome either. I think that is going to be sick. Hot Rod magazine did a fiberglass roadster flat black, but the roof they hit with clear, then used red striping (matched the interior) to separate the colors. That looked cool too. But on yours, I can see this thing just sick flat black.

    Yeah man, I was shaking when I laid the first coat! The whole thing won't be murdered out though. The white is a flat white and will stay that way. The hood roof trunk and all chrome will be flat black for a flat 2 tone look. The white looks real good already so I'm excited! The only issue I have with a fully murdered out car is that the car HAS to be washed almost every day. ANY grease like your hand prints or even just some road grime looks terrible and blotchy. Seen it too much out here in Cali. That's why the only black is the center of the car. No one touches it at all. Hell the trunk has a crazy little handle that pops out when you open the trunk so I don't even have to touch it!

    The goal is to spray it today so we'll see!

  23. Restoring Scratched plastic!

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    I had one of my tail light covers on halfass and it fell off while driving. I didn't realize untill about an hour after, so I drove around all night looking for where it could of fell off. When finally found it, it was still in one piece, but unfortunately it was pretty scratched up. It looks like it might be repairable though, so does anyone know how I would go about doing this? I have the general idea, sanding high grit, then polishing, but what grit should I start and end with? What type of plastic polish? Thanks for the help.

    Damn, that sucks!!

    It really depends on how deep the scratch is I guess. If you think about it your not going to take the scratch out but actually scratch everything around it down to it's level. If they are not terribly deep then Id start with a 220 if you have to go aggressive or 400 if you can barely feel the scratch with your nail when you run it over the damaged area. From there just keep moving up to 600, 800, 1000 and then polish. There is a real good tutorial on here that shows how to clear lights with a rattle can clearcoat and I would recommend that too since your gonna be thinning out the plastic. The most important thing is to take your time!!

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