jesterjames
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Posts posted by jesterjames
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Who's using what, and what are you paying per year for it?
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FI Q, or a LVL 4 XL. Id personally go up to 2.3 cubes after all dis and run a 12 though...
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2 kenwood w3011 12's and a kicker zx400.1
Thanks for the support guys, man i miss my 15. Its probably in some crack heads car somewhere by now...
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They dont compare to my old 15 i had off 3kw's but for 450wrms tuned for daily id say they pound.
The setup is
2 kenwood w3011 12's
kicker zx400.1
pioneer 510ub
JBL POS's up front that i hate
Infinity kappas rear that sound great
Vid 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXd0ELS3u3Y
Added 3 more vids
Vid 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mpX5FOR2yI
Vid 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcOCxesn5fY
Vid 4 Still uploading, ill update tomorrow
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I got 8600 on a regular basis with my 14k.
what was the IMP after rise?
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I build Rock Crawlers (Jeeps) and such as another hobby!Trust me when I tell you...There is no such thing as an Un-Breakable part!!!!!!LOL!!!!!
oh come on bobby long D60 joints are practically unbreakable
why is it that people must test this theory by being extra hard on there equipment lol
you ever make it over to the west side for competitions?
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haha there are some good guesses in here.
The gear is all prime, the truck isnt due to the effects of the gear.
Can you tell me what is wrong here?
from the looks of it im gonna guess a 1993 Astro van is your problem... do i win a cookie
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i personally say more cubes and more port area... but maybe thats just me. Like 5 cubes after all dis and 80-85 SQ in of port tuned around 35hz.
In my experience imp rise goes up when the box gets smaller meaning you will be getting less power outta your SAZ3500D... If i were you id get a clamp meter and a DMM and see what your amp is putting out now for power from this you will be able to calculate imp rise. Use this if you dont know ohms law, http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp
On my lvl 4 it was wired to 1 ohm but with imp rise my amp was seeing 3ohms, 56.5volts/18.6amps. Thats what i got from my dmm and my clamp meter. This was in 4.3 cubes after all dis, 45's in all corners and 70 SQ in of port.
One thing that has to be factored in here is efficiency and larger enclosures are generally more efficient
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Last night my homie was killed by a drunk driver doing 100plus in a car. he just turned 18
thats fucked up dude, sorry for your loss!
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boring day
reminds me of the time i put my buddys AQ3500.1D on my 2 12's rated for 800wrms for the pair, they took it like they were champs. I was amazed because our goal was to see them go boom. I still have them and use them daily.
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please explain how you are limited on fusing... 878amp's btw is only 10k at 12volts
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i should save up and get 2 18s lol. just go nuts. get those aq hdc3's
or a set of Fi Q's, I still vote for and XL over it all though... maybe 2 XL's
as everyone has said look for used or just pm rusty for pricing
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Umm by shake some shit. You won't be doing it on stock electrical, stock electrical is like 600 watts or some shit. Your best bet is audio que
Www.audioque.com
Edit:or just search the for sale sections on ca forums
lmao 600wrms my ass you can run 1500wrms without too much trouble, just as long as you have a good batt under the hood.
id say save up a little more money and get 1 LVL4 XL 18, 1 AQ2200D, and a HO alternator and you should be good
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that's a pretty damn good amount. I'd like to see a vid of that
haha i wish i had one, me and the bathroom floor were very close friends that night lol... My friends are now joking about the rainbow because thats what it looked like when i puked.
Edit:
Last night was also a learning experience, 2 pitchers of Fat Tire and then some stupid amount of Boundry Bay ESB = very bad stomach ache
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come on man gotta step yo game up to Four Locos
Drank 6 of those the other night and a 12 pack, worst hang over of my life lol
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i like the 3+ inches of excursion as well haha.
i should note that when i was sending my type R's 1kw each, they were seeing it on music and were in a huge box (2.9 cu.Ft per woofer)
Id say they did remarkably considering the circumstance
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putting 2x rated power on a woofer free air, yea the dudes really bright.
The type R is a $100 sub. There beastly for what they are, i have personally put 2300wrms to 2 of them. Did they like it, no... did they get loud yes. Did they get a little stinky after 10 minutes of playing, yes.
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Ok so were not talking about drunk driving or anything like that. The shear thought of getting behind the wheel after having more than a few is plain stupid, have most of us done it yes, but it was still stupid. What im asking is what does it take for you to feel drunk. (Drunk as in shit faced more or less) It can be beer, wine, liquor, or whatever your poison is.
Ill start off
in a 2 hour period i can drink 3/4 of a 1/5th and be done. I wont puke, pass out, or anything like that... but i most certainly wont be walking straight.
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That and its totally possible for the front outputs to go bad...
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This is my old HU
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17693_...DEH-P510UB.html
I really like the 4volt pre outs and the SQ of the deck
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Ok so i got rearended about a week ago and I took my truck to the shop and the adjuster came out to take a look at it. When my body guy told him that the roll pan was a custom piece (street scene) he said that insurance does not cover custom parts and all that he could do was replace it with a stock piece which would be the ugly ass GM one (the girl who hit me has Progressive insurance if that has any relevence). But i was just wondering if they can actually do that, the part i had was a $200 good looking piece, and they are trying to replace it with a cheap, gay ass $80 stock GM one..
the guy is an idiot, the vehicle needs to be put back to the same condition as it was prior to the accident
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How about point the subs to the sides (2 each side) and ports to cab?
Or flip it around and give it a try (subs to sides, ports to back).
1 big port would be best.
subs wouldnt clear going to the sides, and ports to the back would severly inhibit air flow. I will however see if i can put subs to the back and ports to the front, ill have to check later to see if its possible to mount all three of them going the same way
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That doesnt make sense.
so ports will not have a surface to load against?
I dont see that performing well at all.
its the same way the 15 i had in there was, port foward, sub forward. It put up a 143.7 at 35HZ on an AC190 with ~1000wrms clamped.
im hoping for 145-147, but well see what it does in the end
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by sealing them off he meant put them in a sealed box.
I think those subs perform better in sealed anyway.
If you wanna try 4 go for it.
doing 2 properly vs. 4 improperly would save money and perform better and will be easier to build so thats what I vote for.
I ninja edited it lol
Sealed would be point less because the box will inhibit 90% of airflow between the trunk and the cabin. Thats why all ports will be firing forward.
im strongly leaning towards 3 now.
Anyone do amp repair??
in Amplifiers
Posted
theres a guy on caraudio.com named mike that does them.
Search on caraudio.com