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SicAudio

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Posts posted by SicAudio

  1. batteries are deceptively simple to make...

    more plates=lower ESR and higher current abilities

    when used in conjunction with virgin lead and AGM, you get more current AND higher reserve.

    and thats it basically. theres no fine tuning, no exotic compounds or anything. Unless you want a carbon fiber case, or a lithium battery (big money), that about all you can do to improve a battery. Luckily, that means that a "discount" shuriken battery can perform damn close to the same level as a comprable size kinetik or xs power. At the end of the day, most companies take a core from hawker/enersys, throw it in a case, slap a sticker on it,, and sell it as their own. These cores arent made by powermaster or kinetik or whoever, theyre mass produced and then just stuck into cases.

    Moral of the story:they may not be exactly the same, but they will all be remarkably close. when people argue over xspower being better than kinetik, theyre talking about marginal differences.

  2. My personal clamp test of the hfi2500 at 1 ohm true output 1241 watts at 14.1 volts

    you might wanna figure out how to account for box rise scooter ;) I have seen some enclosures with 3 ohms rise...

    i think I will have to call BS on that.. with out a vid as proof it is a lie... they have to produce within a reasonable range they are CEA rated...

    we clamped an HFi2500D last year on an HCCA 12.2 sub that dmm'ed at .8 ohm and after rise we were at 1.3 and we got 55+ volts...thats between 2200 and 2300 rms watts... with almost 270 amps of draw..

    pretty dang close to rated in my opinion... good enough for what it cost too... less $$ per watt than most amps..

    not in the same league as the BRZ or MBQuart by any means but money well spent nonetheless...

  3. When I first got my two Alpine Type-R's, I played them @ full tilt right away with maxed gains and of course a distorted signal. This was before I discovered a multimeter, and what distortion sounds like... All I know is that these two subs ended up failing within a month, and were getting their rated 500w RMS (distorted tho).

    So on my next pair, after exchanging them at Best Buy, I played them @ half-gain and took my time breaking it in. I listened to it at half power for about 5 days. After that I gave them a solid 31.6v @ 50hz and they sound much better than the first pair did. Maybe it's a myth maybe it's not! But it definitely sounds better, even if its placebo.

    If I were you I'd take it easy on them, you can't just wang on them right away cause IMO subs are fragile as shit in reality. You can in a competition but thats why they recone. Suck it up and play it half volume for the first week. If it helps the longevity of the subs and/or the sound, then sacrificing one week for those benefits is worth it.

    Plus, you have something to look forward to when you end up turning up the gain...

    i sold my 1st version R's to my brother a few yrs ago, (they are about 11 yrs old now) and they were rated at 300 rms 1000 peak, we ran 1100 rms to the pair (nearly double the rms, without clipping (38.1 volts) and they are still beating to this day on the same amp. I would venture to say the reason yours cooked was because of clipping not power. distortion will rape a new sub in seconds.

  4. Touchy subject this. Anyone familiar with the high-end home audio scene will know it supposedly goes for capacitors in xovers and amps, and interconnects too.

    IMO, subs do need a certain amount of break in as they are mechanical things. A good designer will design the sub to have the published parameters once the surround and spider have been flexed and softened up a bit. Playing a test tone at a high enough volume to move the cone a bit will break it in.

    that is my way of doing it exactly! during the install while u r setting gains ect it breaks it in just fine.

  5. pretty much what I was telling the guy, His whole argument is this: call the tech line for any brand and they will tell you not to rip on a sub out of the box. well duh. but if it was required like he says it is why isnt it in the damn manual? he had no answer other than "call tech support and ask them" he thinks because he is a dealer he knows it all and he doesn't lolz. 20+ yrs installing systems for a living and I have never broke in a sub.

    btw race engines dont get broke in. we race 1/4 mile and circle track here in colorado and race engines get rebuilt so much it doesnt matter, for a daily driver you break it in when you first fire it up and get the cam and lifters seated then you drive it no special treatment required for 90% of the engines. if it was rebuilt right it is already broke in during the install.

  6. Those subs will work with that amp but you will want more power.

    Don't go prefab. Build your own ported box or try to find someone local to build one for you.

    Search around.

    For a 1ohm stable monoblock amp you will want a pair of dual 4ohm subs.

    more than 1200 rms to a pair that takes 1000 rms? if he was sure of what he was doing I'd say get a 1610 but he doesn't seem to knowledgeable.

    the 1210d amp is the better choice just make sure you buy authorized if you want a warranty. i.e. a dealer like me or online only OCS has warranty for hifonics. regardless of what they say anywhere else you do not have a warranty at all. If all you can afford is a prefab then do it for now but build or have built a custom tuned box and those subs will sing for ya'. and definately get the dvc 4 ohm subs.

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