SicAudio

be a lot cooler if he actually did his own builds though...

his primary is ipbanned... lol N8 hammered him

ouch...

its in there..had to edit the post to fix the links...

1.33 is series / parallel .33 is parallel...12 is series... http://images.the12volt.com/12voltimages/3_2ohm_dvc_12ohm.gif cant believe anyone with 2500 posts has a need to actually ask about simple math...and has the ballz to have a name like "knowledge"....lol

Dayum!! that was NAYUSTY mean lol I have alot of references on other forums.. mostly ROE... I come here to read mostly

why not just pay 1 of us that has a clue to build ya a new box?....

batteries are deceptively simple to make... more plates=lower ESR and higher current abilities when used in conjunction with virgin lead and AGM, you get more current AND higher reserve. and thats it basically. theres no fine tuning, no exotic compounds or anything. Unless you want a carbon fiber case, or a lithium battery (big money), that about all you can do to improve a battery. Luckily, that means that a "discount" shuriken battery can perform damn close to the same level as a comprable size kinetik or xs power. At the end of the day, most companies take a core from hawker/enersys, throw it in a case, slap a sticker on it,, and sell it as their own. These cores arent made by powermaster or kinetik or whoever, theyre mass produced and then just stuck into cases. Moral of the story:they may not be exactly the same, but they will all be remarkably close. when people argue over xspower being better than kinetik, theyre talking about marginal differences.

you might wanna figure out how to account for box rise scooter I have seen some enclosures with 3 ohms rise... i think I will have to call BS on that.. with out a vid as proof it is a lie... they have to produce within a reasonable range they are CEA rated... we clamped an HFi2500D last year on an HCCA 12.2 sub that dmm'ed at .8 ohm and after rise we were at 1.3 and we got 55+ volts...thats between 2200 and 2300 rms watts... with almost 270 amps of draw.. pretty dang close to rated in my opinion... good enough for what it cost too... less $$ per watt than most amps.. not in the same league as the BRZ or MBQuart by any means but money well spent nonetheless...

28.3 hz assuming 3/4" material and not taking sub displacement into account

i sold my 1st version R's to my brother a few yrs ago, (they are about 11 yrs old now) and they were rated at 300 rms 1000 peak, we ran 1100 rms to the pair (nearly double the rms, without clipping (38.1 volts) and they are still beating to this day on the same amp. I would venture to say the reason yours cooked was because of clipping not power. distortion will rape a new sub in seconds.

that is my way of doing it exactly! during the install while u r setting gains ect it breaks it in just fine.

pretty much what I was telling the guy, His whole argument is this: call the tech line for any brand and they will tell you not to rip on a sub out of the box. well duh. but if it was required like he says it is why isnt it in the damn manual? he had no answer other than "call tech support and ask them" he thinks because he is a dealer he knows it all and he doesn't lolz. 20+ yrs installing systems for a living and I have never broke in a sub. btw race engines dont get broke in. we race 1/4 mile and circle track here in colorado and race engines get rebuilt so much it doesnt matter, for a daily driver you break it in when you first fire it up and get the cam and lifters seated then you drive it no special treatment required for 90% of the engines. if it was rebuilt right it is already broke in during the install.

got a debate with some people over sub break in at low power. I know it is recommended but it isnt in a single manual for mainstream products. (im not talking spl super high end stuff here) so what do you guys think? for daily driver setups under 1000 wrms per sub no break in needed or not?

more than 1200 rms to a pair that takes 1000 rms? if he was sure of what he was doing I'd say get a 1610 but he doesn't seem to knowledgeable. the 1210d amp is the better choice just make sure you buy authorized if you want a warranty. i.e. a dealer like me or online only OCS has warranty for hifonics. regardless of what they say anywhere else you do not have a warranty at all. If all you can afford is a prefab then do it for now but build or have built a custom tuned box and those subs will sing for ya'. and definately get the dvc 4 ohm subs.