kamikazi117

I owned one of those soundstream single din headunits with the hang-down screen. It wasnt bad honestly. Only thing i hated about it was the volume control. Has 4v outs, front, rear, and sub outs. Payed a good price for all the features. But then again i cant really compare to anything since ive only owned 4 headunits and 3 were just standard single dins.

thanks

I'm making a 4th order for 2 10's and was wondering if i should seperate the subs in the sealed section or put them together? I'm putting them together in the ported side.

Haa, thanks. As for the dampener, should I just put that all over the trunk and the trunk lid to stop that rattling?

Yea its doing some serious work too. Powering 4 tweets and 4 6.5s. I seriously love how clean the powerbass ASA series amps look. Extremely clean if I had it encased. I'm planning on replacing it with a Soundstream tx4.560 though.

It's some industrial strength velcro strips. They look really bad because the pod is sitting up way high. Makes about a 1/4in gap between the pod and dash. I'll end up switching to some good thin double sided tape though. Were you suggesting something?

Here's My first video. At the moment I'm thinking about buying a 15" AA SMD, a 15" Fi BTL N3, or a about 6 SA-8's? Any suggestions?

Yea that's for sure what I had planned. When I was first trying to get to the stock door speakers, I didn't want to take the door panel off so i was prying on the speaker cover and broke those melted plastic rivets, so when I went to put it back in place I used epoxy. I want to go to a scrap yard and buy a couple door panels and practice fiber-glassing before I do it for real on these door panels. Doesn't seem to hard but I want to be sure I have a little experience.

I don't really like to use my electronics maxed anyways so when I'm cruising around I'll turn it up LOUD for only maybe 30sec - 1min to show it off. I'm more into SQ than SPL. Don't get me wrong SPL feels and sounds badass but I just don't like driving around in pain. I did have a 12" T5 before this T6 and the T5 seemed a hell of a lot more beefy than the T6, but the T6 responds a lot faster and has some seriously incredible cooling. I haven'y put any lights in it yet and probably won't until I make an enclosure to were you can actually see the cone. I don't blame you for being crazy about what you buy this hobby or lifestyle is freaking expensive.

Sub and Enclosure: This enclosure is most definitely not were i want to be. Its a good box but it looks terrible. I'm more into having everything look as if it was supposed to be there. Its made with 3/4" MDF, liquid nails, double baffle, about 3 cubed, port is about 3 1/2" wide, 15" tall, dunno depth Heres the internals and cuts: Here it is in the trunk:

My amplifiers: The amps are powered by 1 run of 4g wire hooked up to a 3 way fused distribution block. They are each grounded by 2ft long 4g wire hooked up to were the spare tire hold down bolt would normally go. The remote comes from the head unit. The inputs come from the RCA outs from the head unit. Tarantula 1300d mono block: This PowerBass amp was more less an impulse buy, just a bad decision. I'm planning on replacing it with a SoundStream TX4.560 for the door speakers. This PowerBass though is an ASA 200.2x 400 watt 2 channel: Some extra Pictures:

Door Speakers and Wiring: This part wasn't so bad except for one door.. This is the same setup in all 4 doors: My future goal is to fiberglass the stock speaker cover and have the 6.5 speakers at an angle. I think there looking a bit crappy right now. Here's the insides of the doors panels. + to + ; - to - The Front Right door was the one I had the most trouble with. There's gasket on the inside of the frame and another on the inside of the door that completely block anything from getting in or out. The worst part was that the gasket on the frame was blocked by the glovebox, so i had to remove the glovebox. Then I had to take the door off to get my hand in there to fish the wire through.. A pain but it's always worth it in the end: Some pictures from the rear door: Best way to not get your wires mixed up:

I haven't had any problems with my T6 its proven to be a brute so far. Its running at 1 ohm with my 1300D amp. What are some of the bad things you've heard, just curious...

This portion of my project was definitely the hardest, complicated, and most time consuming. The reason I did this was because the stock radio is just this little screen with a small plug with about 10 wires for the air temperature control and fan control. There was also two digital wires, one for the speaker outs to an amplifier in the trunk and one for the antenna in from the amplifier. Weird.. This dash piece gets all the credit from Dave at Sounds Unlimited in Hobart, IN Doesn't look to complicated but its got a perfect curve on the bottom to fit my dash just right: Here I'm getting it all lined up on the dash so that I can get a slot in my dash for the wiring: Cutting this hole was the scariest part for me because I knew there was no turning back: Took out all the center console so that I could run the Front, Rear, and Sub RCA outs and the remote wire from the radio: Wiring Harness: I used some external double sided tape to hold the piece on: Here it is finally finished, I'm seriously happy with the way it turned out:

Best and biggest money saving upgrade you could ever do The Big 3! Already burned up one alt. I managed to pick up a used one from a totaled 2009 S40 with only 13k miles for $50. Scored big time, so I'm being as nice as possible to this one. It's stock, I'm pushing 150a...wooo 1/0 wire = $ adds up quick!: Here I had to grind down some aluminum on the head so I could get the 1/0 terminal to fit. The block to chassis ground fitment: Battery to chassis fitment: Alternator to Battery fitment: Finishing it up with heat shrink and wire wrap: All cleaned up: