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mxer111

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Posts posted by mxer111

  2. A good car

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    Older cars are not more expensive. Thats actually quite the opposite. An old 350 small block is cheaper than hell to fix. And multiple alt setups are easier in older vehicles as well.(more room) Also anything older gets way more looks and they are alot more fun to drive. I like explorers. I have had a few myself. And i have had blazer from the old k5 convertible to the early 2000's and not to step on anyones toes but anyone that has one will tell you they are like assholes. Everyone has one. Just my .02c.

  3. A good car

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    anyone got any ideas?

    Probably pretty much any 2 door hatchback would do what you want. Crx, civic hatch, mazda mirage hatch, I have even seen an old chevy chevette doing high 40's. You can get something decent for alot less than 10k if you go with early to late 90's stuff. If you want something bigger 2 door blazers get pretty loud. Explorers. you can get alot of stuff loud so it depends on preference i guess. Caprice wagons have lots of room but nobody wants to drive them lol. Get a caprice or roadmaster wagon with the lt1. Bag it on 24's laying body and put a decent system in it and you'll still be cheaper than buying a 10k car if you do the work yourself. If I had 10k just laying around I would buy a 65 ford or chevy pickup. Front clip it and bag it on 22's or 24's. Put 4 15's in a blowthrough and lay frame. Thats just me though. Doing 150's in an old car or truck is badass and it suprises the hell outta people.

  6. Rocket cheap exhaust MOD!!

    in Big Boys Toys..(and girls too) dirt, sand, road, water.....discuss your toys here!

    Posted · Edited by mxer111

    2011-02-22_08-33.jpg

    Okay first off you can find this elsewhere I know but unless you have your head crammed into bike forums you may have missed it. So I just did this today in my living room and bedroom. Let me know what you think.

    Thing you'll NEED: For a 2001 r6. Different bike means different tools.

    12mm and 14mm sockets (and 14mm wrench)

    A drill fitted with a drill bit of the appropriate size (and philips for screws it applicable

    A metal saw (I used a hack saw because it's cold in the garage but bandsaw would be ideal)

    Either rivets from your local hardware or self taping screws (which i opted for, explain why later..

    And that should be all you need. Self tapers and a couple good blades for my hack saw ran me $3 and some change at the local hardware(remember to support small business)

    Now for the fun part. Remove the exhaust from the bike useing your 12mm and 14mm wrench and sockets.

    r102.jpg

    So far so good. Now your going to want to drill the endcap rivets out on the exit side so the cap can be removed.

    r103.jpg

    Next take your chosen measurement and splash it on the can with a scribe or pin. Marker works fine as well. I personally opted to take off 8 inches which worked great.

    And cut away. Get as close to perfect as you can but if you skip up it is okay it will be covered when you reinstall the end cap. Now you can cut through all the way blind but i choose to do some disassembly for pictures sake.

    r104.jpg

    r105.jpg

    Just cut in staight down the line all the way through. At 8 inches on a stock 01 r6 it went through fine without a hicup. This is the piece that should remain inside the part of the exhaust you will reuse.

    r106.jpg

    And this is whats coming off and why your bike is so damn quiet.

    r107.jpg

    Muffler with the # 1 baffle reinstalled. Not that crazy looking one either lol

    r108.jpg

    r109.jpg

    Reinstall the encap with either rivets or self tapping screws. With self tapers you can remove it easily if you decide to paint the can and you still want chrome ends (this is the route i chose).

    r110.jpg

    r111.jpg

    Now reinstall the exhaust on the bike the same it came off and there you go. Sounds good. Has that aftermarket shorty look without that 300 dollar price tag. And you can always paint it with high temp engine paint for that really custom look.

    r115.jpg

    r113.jpg

    r114.jpg

    And it's quite a bit louder as well :good::clapping:

    before and after

    2011-02-22_08-33.jpg

    r115.jpg

    Have fun, ride safe, and good luck.[/color][/color][/color]

  8. wheel bearings

    in Suspension and Brakes (4x4, street drops) - Lift it, Drop it..STOP it!

    Posted

    when im driving on the interstate if i give it gas it shakes if i let off and coast its smooth. and like i said it i stomp on it in a left handed turn it shakes like the car is gonna fall apart, but not when i turn right. cv shaft? any ideas?

    Well check your lug nuts lol but im guessing cv. wheel bearing tends to howl and moan before you loose a wheel. bent cv under hard excel makes quite a ruckus.... i say cv

  11. need help with rust

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    i cant glass cause itll crack in the winter. i could weld a new piece in but im not sure if i could get it right. its 252 am right now im gona try and get some pics when the suns up what do i use after ive treated the rust on the pieces that have dimples becouse of the rust bondo? wont that crack in the winter to though?

    I prefer metal in place of metal but i have glassed the shit out of some of my beater cars and never once had a crack cause of cold. And i live in michigan. As far as after you fix it i usually use por15 on the under side of everything. If you cant get behind it just make sure you have all the rust sanded out and seal it up good. POR is nasty stuff so if you use it on the underside of the quarters use gloves. And also rage extreme bondo is my favorite for smaller skims. a little runny but workable. Never had that crack from cold either. It's all about prep and decontamination.

    You get it to stick good and dont beat on it it will stay there as long as you own the car.

  12. CRX system suggestions

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    search the boards, different things have worked for different people, when i said a plain ported box in ours i meant as plain as you get, no waveguides no weird ports or anything just subs and port back.

    while other configurations are proven to work for others, this is whats achieved the numbers ray spoke of in our CRX.

    Theres a thread in the audio innovations section of this forum if youd like a complete look at that vehicle and what was done to it.

    thanks for the info. i'll check it out

  14. CRX system suggestions

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    problem with 15s is you get above window line nd run out of room fast for amps and a second battery. Ray rolls with the gangsta lean (seat all the way back) so space is pretty tight, and i dont see 4 12s or 15s working back there at all without being choked off

    I use to have 4 15's in a probe so i def know what you mean about running out of room.

    Do you suggest port back sub up. port back subs forward. Or any other combos that are tried and true. I dont want to build 4 boxes to get it right. Anything you dont want to tell me i understand but anything you can would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks

  15. CRX system suggestions

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    75 sq for 4 cube isn't normal?

    Like 18 per..

    Huh. Ok

    Terry's record?

    What's that?

    I did a 50... That's not any kind of record status.

    Do you not believe me?...lol

    Trust me kid... I have no reason to lie.

    Go look around at my builds, sorry to bust whatever bubble you are in.

    A 50 @40 in a rex is super easy. Even with 2400 rated.

    I'm reading these numbers and looking through this sig. I don't believe i'd argue with this guy. Whats you take on the 12's vs the 15's. Price difference isnt severe. Let me pick your brain a little lol :ehh:

  16. CRX system suggestions

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Thanks for the replies guys. 150's with 2 12's sounds pretty sweet. Do you think the 15's will do any better. With the price difference in the two if i would just gain a little more air movement i'd do 15's. But not at the cost of losing my sound. How big of a box can you even fit back there? I rather have 12's playing full than choked 15's.

    I see alot of 4 12's too. I'm not sure 4 15's would have enough cuft back there. I like the sound but i like the aww factor as well i cant help it :pardon:

    thanks

  19. CRX system suggestions

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    I have searched with no success but link me if I'm blind.

    I've got a crx on the line I'm going to pick up soon. Since I dont have it here I dont know what demisions I'm working with. I don't want to wall it but I want the most I can sqeeze in. So someone with some crx experience please point me in the right direction for a daily setup. I don't want your super secret spl setup just a ground pounder that will crush lows and flex hard. So 4 15", 4 12", 2 18", cu/ft available, speaker placement, port configuration. That kind of thing.

    Thanks in advance.

  24. when porting rear deck

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    I have thought alot about a dual bandpass in a similar situation. Instead of the ports receding into the box have them come out of the box and plumb them into the cabin. Tuning would be difficult and 6th orders are not easy to make sound good but if someone could get it dialed in they would not lose any sound pressure to the trunk. Just a thought and I didnt read through all the post so if it has already been suggested I dont need a flame. I'm tuned in though. Hopefully someone with some bandpass knowledge will chime in.

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