mxer111

Vehicle and electrical would be a good place to start. In a little hatch it would do good. But in a suburban or a school bus. Not so great.

Older cars are not more expensive. Thats actually quite the opposite. An old 350 small block is cheaper than hell to fix. And multiple alt setups are easier in older vehicles as well.(more room) Also anything older gets way more looks and they are alot more fun to drive. I like explorers. I have had a few myself. And i have had blazer from the old k5 convertible to the early 2000's and not to step on anyones toes but anyone that has one will tell you they are like assholes. Everyone has one. Just my .02c.

Probably pretty much any 2 door hatchback would do what you want. Crx, civic hatch, mazda mirage hatch, I have even seen an old chevy chevette doing high 40's. You can get something decent for alot less than 10k if you go with early to late 90's stuff. If you want something bigger 2 door blazers get pretty loud. Explorers. you can get alot of stuff loud so it depends on preference i guess. Caprice wagons have lots of room but nobody wants to drive them lol. Get a caprice or roadmaster wagon with the lt1. Bag it on 24's laying body and put a decent system in it and you'll still be cheaper than buying a 10k car if you do the work yourself. If I had 10k just laying around I would buy a 65 ford or chevy pickup. Front clip it and bag it on 22's or 24's. Put 4 15's in a blowthrough and lay frame. Thats just me though. Doing 150's in an old car or truck is badass and it suprises the hell outta people.

how about selling one of them for a profiit??

Also I forgot to mention my bike was already jetted Prior to this mod. Stock jetting and less back pressure could be bad. I have not heard of anyone else having trouble but for a hundred bucks I would suggest getting a rejet with any exhaust mod. I weigh 215 pounds and I can clutch it up in 2nd sitting on the tank no problem. Well worth it.

Okay first off you can find this elsewhere I know but unless you have your head crammed into bike forums you may have missed it. So I just did this today in my living room and bedroom. Let me know what you think. Thing you'll NEED: For a 2001 r6. Different bike means different tools. 12mm and 14mm sockets (and 14mm wrench) A drill fitted with a drill bit of the appropriate size (and philips for screws it applicable A metal saw (I used a hack saw because it's cold in the garage but bandsaw would be ideal) Either rivets from your local hardware or self taping screws (which i opted for, explain why later.. And that should be all you need. Self tapers and a couple good blades for my hack saw ran me $3 and some change at the local hardware(remember to support small business) Now for the fun part. Remove the exhaust from the bike useing your 12mm and 14mm wrench and sockets. So far so good. Now your going to want to drill the endcap rivets out on the exit side so the cap can be removed. Next take your chosen measurement and splash it on the can with a scribe or pin. Marker works fine as well. I personally opted to take off 8 inches which worked great. And cut away. Get as close to perfect as you can but if you skip up it is okay it will be covered when you reinstall the end cap. Now you can cut through all the way blind but i choose to do some disassembly for pictures sake. Just cut in staight down the line all the way through. At 8 inches on a stock 01 r6 it went through fine without a hicup. This is the piece that should remain inside the part of the exhaust you will reuse. And this is whats coming off and why your bike is so damn quiet. Muffler with the # 1 baffle reinstalled. Not that crazy looking one either lol Reinstall the encap with either rivets or self tapping screws. With self tapers you can remove it easily if you decide to paint the can and you still want chrome ends (this is the route i chose). Now reinstall the exhaust on the bike the same it came off and there you go. Sounds good. Has that aftermarket shorty look without that 300 dollar price tag. And you can always paint it with high temp engine paint for that really custom look. And it's quite a bit louder as well before and after Have fun, ride safe, and good luck.[/color][/color][/color]

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Well check your lug nuts lol but im guessing cv. wheel bearing tends to howl and moan before you loose a wheel. bent cv under hard excel makes quite a ruckus.... i say cv

Just because the wheel doesnt "wooble" doesnt mean the wheel bearing isnt going.

deals kinda sketchy on the one i was picking up. I still may do it but thought i'd see if anyone had a gutted install car laying around somewhere. Let me know.

I prefer metal in place of metal but i have glassed the shit out of some of my beater cars and never once had a crack cause of cold. And i live in michigan. As far as after you fix it i usually use por15 on the under side of everything. If you cant get behind it just make sure you have all the rust sanded out and seal it up good. POR is nasty stuff so if you use it on the underside of the quarters use gloves. And also rage extreme bondo is my favorite for smaller skims. a little runny but workable. Never had that crack from cold either. It's all about prep and decontamination. You get it to stick good and dont beat on it it will stay there as long as you own the car.

thanks for the info. i'll check it out

How much power and I can have it done in like 5 minutes guber...LOL ^^^ haha i haven't heard "guber" in forever.

I use to have 4 15's in a probe so i def know what you mean about running out of room. Do you suggest port back sub up. port back subs forward. Or any other combos that are tried and true. I dont want to build 4 boxes to get it right. Anything you dont want to tell me i understand but anything you can would be greatly appreciated. thanks

I'm reading these numbers and looking through this sig. I don't believe i'd argue with this guy. Whats you take on the 12's vs the 15's. Price difference isnt severe. Let me pick your brain a little lol