Hell-Razor
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Posts posted by Hell-Razor
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I have a dc lvl 5 15" for sale (it needs a recone). check your pm for more info
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I have a DC lvl 5 15" that needs a recone. As far as the spokes and motor goes its perfect.
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are you looking for a dc lvl 5 15?
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would like to buy a dc lvl 4 xl 15 with no ugly marks or scratches on the motor or cone/surround a few on the motor is ok i have $350 so $350 shipped if any one can do it
I have a DC lvl 5 15" for sale that needs a recone soon. Ill send it do you for 325.
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Alright,
I think I got a new design coming along decently. I think a DC Level 5 15 is about .21 displacement so thats what I about based this design off of. I will be building this box out of 3/4 MDF,
39" W, 19" H, 15" D. This will give the box 5cuFt of airspace without displacement. The woofer and port will be firing forward
COMPETITION:
The port will be 5" W (17.5 inches tall) and 16.5" D tuned to 46hz with a total volume of 4.23 cuFt. Will give me a square port area of 87.5
DAILY POUNDING:
The port will be 1.5 "W (17.5 inches tall) and 16.5" D tuned to 26hz with a total volume of 4.8 cuFt. Will give me a square port area of 26.25. i THINK this has to be between 60 and 120 though =/
What do you guys think? The only thing I am not sure about is the competition box. It seems that with a port that big it will reduce the cuFt of the box to about 4 not including the displacement from the woofer...
EDIT: I just realized the daily pounding port may do two things 1) I dont have enough port room 2) I may get port noise
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WE NEED LEVEL 6 PORN!
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.. I havent really listen to much chopped and screwed stuff. I actually looked it up for the first time ever about a week ago. I am a huge bass head. I mainly listen to the bass lines of songs and the drums and whatnot. I really likeHeath has a port tuned to 48 for comps and a plug in port tuned to 28 hertz which in my opinion is the only way to go if you want really good #s and still do hairtricks the 28 to 32 hertz tuning is for chopped and screwed and low lows.
song for example. The third bass drop is too low (37 seconds in) for my box now but the second bass drop (0:34) hits hard as hell. I know some ICP songs go that low (I think it hits 30hz), some other dorrough songs, some slim thug, gucci man. The list goes on and on. From my ear (no term lab) that's were my car peaks at because everything rattles to death. I officially lost my license plate to that song and am still waiting for the replacement. -
Do you have fold down seats, or any way to let some of the sound in the car from the trunk? Your setup should be pretty loud. I have 2 12's in the trunk of a Buick, as you can see from my sig but my setup is pretty loud to me. I only have a 6x10 opening in my backseat where the arm rest is.
I had like 85% of the seat folded down I want to say. Theres two parts, one 85 the other 15 about... I usually dont fold down the smallest part because its still a wiring nightmare back there (out of sight, out of mind..hah). And no I do not have my trunk sealed off yet. I am waiting on the rebuild of my box to seal it off. But I did tweak the SSF a little bit. I noticed it was lower than it should be (not too much but a little). I can turn it up a little bit more now but I am worried about magnet slap. It happened to me once (I think it was magnet slap at least) and scared the shit out of me. I haven't really pushed it sense...
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Hey guys...
I am just trying to get more "bang" from my dc level 5 15". Right now I am not happy from its output, but I do like the lows that I get but believe the woofer could do better. My current box is 3.5cuFt (too small, I know) tuned to about 31.5hz. It does nice on a few songs but doesnt really bang like I have seen others (on youtube) do.
I re measured my trunk this morning and figured (with a little bit of pushing) the MAX I could get is 39W, 18.75H (could probably squeeze it to 19), and would like to keep the depth to as minimal as possible. As of right now my box is 22D and I hardly have enough room for the extra battery back there. I would like to try and tune around 28hz for daily pounding (I believe I will get more bang if I tune lower and have a little better output, forgive me if I am wrong though). And 48hz for competitions (no specific reason, I just figure tuning up 20hz would be easier than 15 or 16...etc). This will be going in the trunk of a 2003 VW Passat Sedan and will be powered by a SAZ-3500D. I would like to try and get this box rebuilt for the competition in Madison,WI on the 27th. I think I would like to aim for roughly 4 to 4.25cuFt. Again I need to keep the depth under what it is currently in order to keep the battery back there.
Also I would prefer using max height and width because I want to seal off the trunk. The woofer and the port I would also like to be firing forward. If you need more info just let me know.
Thanks!
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Sorry, I passed out last night while trying to pull an all nighter... i think i still have the keyboard imprints on my face...
Anyway, a 2003 VW Passat sedan. I am not that experienced so I am guessing I would not want to tune that low.
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I just watched (thor I think) level 6 video and DAMN. I need to get some shit like that. Its tuned to (I think) 24hz? What are the benefits of tuning that low? I was always told stay above 30... But yeah, benefits? Is it not as loud? Is there only good airflow? Is it possible to change the tuning (say 22hz) to 42hz (for comps) easier than doing it from 32 to 42? I am looking to have my next box (building soon!) to have a slider / add stuff in it to change the tuning of it.
My level 5 right now is being pushed by a 3500D and the box is tuned to 31.5hz. I don't think I could get anybody's hair to move in the window.... yet.
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Yeah I know and I trust your opinion. But I dont think you were exact on the cubes... I do appreciate your help though.I already told you my opinion maybe somebody else will chime in here.
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Alright, I am in the search for a new box design. Not asking for a new design now but just recommendations...
First off I was told by a couple of people on here that I want a smaller box than what I have. Currently its about 4.5 cuFt and it isn't quite banging like I have seen others do. The excursion isnt what I have seen others do either (on youtube). I figured out today I was clipping my deck a little bit but it wasn't anything major. I easily fixed that by tweaking the EQ a little bit. I was clipping the amp a hair as well but when I fixed my deck the amp was fine. I was able to move the gain a good amount but still it isn't banging as hard as it should.
Anyway to the whole box idea / design here. What is the displacement of a level 5 15 dc? I was told its .23 but that may be off. I was also told that I want a big box and that 4.5 cuFt would make the woofer loud as hell. Well its not to be honest (tuned to about 31hz).. I was told a few days ago that I need a box between 1.75 and 2.5 cuFt after displacement because I am throwing ~3500 watts at it (SAZ-3500D). And for two 15s 2 - 2.75 cuFt per woofer would be the best if I get level 5 15 and another 3500D. I see Thor is running a box much smaller than what he should AND is throwing 5kw per 10" level 5 woofer. Those things look like they are going to blow out of his box... Also that with anything more than 2k watts you should always fire the port and woofer towards the cab of the car and seal off the trunk. Well my trunks not sealed off (one reason why I want to rebuild the box) and I don't think my box is tuned to where it should be. I think I want more back pressure (smaller box) because that will cause it to climb in db during comps.
My trunk is about 42" wide, 17.5" tall and 41" deep. The only problem that doesn't make it square is the support beam between the C pillars. It acts as the lock for the back seats and is angled towards the rear of the car. The middle of it is the smallest part of the bar leaving that to the biggest part opening towards the cab. It is also roughly 5 inches thick and is hollow. If you were to measure from the back side of the bar to the rear of the trunk you will get only about 30 inches because there is one of those stupid child safety lock things. I tried to remove it once before but its welded to all hell and would be a bitch to remove it. I need to keep this car looking stock so I am pressed for space and weight. So I need to keep the back seats in place and take them out for comps (temperately).
I think I am the victim of inexperience and peoples bad advice... But by posting and reading and reading some more and then reading more and then watching videos I think I am slowly growing my knowledge.
[Edit] To fix some spelling mistakes and fix a few bad numbers
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Another kit? damnmany cars come with separate bulbs for the high beams, which you have. you have to order another 6000k kit for the high beams
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I recently ordered HID lights (6000k) and they are awesome! I highly recommend them for anybody that wants to make their car look really nice. But to my question, the brights that came with them are a yellow ish color. Is there anyway to replace them so that I get the same white and blue ish tint for the brights? I mean right now these lights without the brights are really bright but the brights are a little more. Its just I don't like the yellow tint to them. I forgot where I ordered them form, I will dig around a little bit more and maybe post the website.
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Thank you!
and sorry I realized I posted in the wrong section of the forums. I already reported it.
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I noticed a check engine light was on so I took it to my friends garage and we took a Diagnostics tool to it. Pretty much I found out that one of the valves on the EVAP system is bad. We were scrummaging around underneath and he pulls out this handful of leaves and dirt and some rocks even out of one of the containers. It turns out that the container is just a charcoal container and it has pretty much gone to where ever charcoal container heaven is. He also figured that that valve is the bad valve and he recommended I get it fixed. I have pretty good friends that work at the VW dealership so I took it there. He said with his employee discount they cost him around 900$ not including labor. I was like screw that I will go look online / someplace cheaper. I took it to my other mechanic friend who works at a car dealership and he said he could probably get one for about 450$ but it would take around a day to put in the new valve and about 20 minutes for the container. He also said that these things are not 100% when it comes to codes. It could be something very serious or could be something very small and ignorable. He stated that this is no big problem and its probably not worth the money and that the only way to really fix this is to replace the system, piece by piece to check to see if the error code goes away because it may not be that container at all (or may be some other problems too).
My feelings are that I don't know enough if its a serious problem or not. What do you guys think? I am kind of tight on money so I don't know if I should bother. This car means a lot to me and so far its in great condition. It has like 83k miles on it and no other check engine lights are on. I would like to pretty much run this car into the ground and the only way to do that is to jump on top of whatever "problem" surfaces first and fix it asap.
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I have been tinkering with things for some time and only have some experience in this field. I am looking at trying to get more in depth with it. Currently I have only done three installs and slowly am learning more and more about it.
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shit, i got a 10 cube box tuned at 40 with 150^2" of port i did for my lvl 5 15"s. buy another lvl 5, and i'll sell u the box painted whatever color you want for 75 bucks. box slammed, never meterd but was in my blazer when i had it. big knerf port
loloya, big box, big port, 5kw per sub.
ik what i was doingBills
Jeeze 10 cubes? Theres no way I can fit that in my trunk. The max is like 4.5 cubes and I still need to fit the amps and batteries back there. The whole issue with this system is that I want the car to look stock. I would love to get another 15 but I dont have 2 grand to spend on it now.
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May I make a suggestion try 3 ft. After all displacements with 20 square inches of port per cubic ft. So 60 square inches of port tuned to 32 should sound a bit better and increase the mechanical power handling vs. The 4 cube box.
I am not saying you're wrong or don't know what you're talking about but why would it better increase the power handling? They suggest a 3.5 cuft box... I am just curious because if I want to move to competitions then I was always told I want a big "boomy box". But hey I am always up for suggestions / comments. Do you know a good design for this box you're suggesting?
Also is the displacement of the level 5 15 like .21 cu ft?
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Alright. I have never smelt a coil burning though so I dont know sorry man. MY next project is to get an oscope and double... no triple check everything.Yeah. As long as the dust caps are pretty cool to the touch, its just a little glue burning off. There is a very noticeable difference between a coil burning the f up and it getting a little warm.
Anybody in the southern wisconsin area want to drink and mess with woofers?
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AH! that is exactly what I wanted to hear. Its not a "bad" smell or a strong one but like I said before it smells like a freshly built computer. I havent noticed if it stops after a little while though.I will add that in a ported box you will smell a little coil for the first couple hours of play time coming out of the port area....at least in my experience.
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I have the electrical backing the amp and that I know. I started with a 200 alt amp and bumped it up to a 350 alt amp from high amperage (badass altys). I upgraded the battery under my hood and one in the back. I know I need a third battery back there asap.
for Team_DC-Derrick --
I do not know the exact measurements of my box right now but its tuned to 30hz and is at 3.5 cu ft. I plan to rebuild it to 4cuFt later and use the entire width of my trunk and save some depth.
2003 VW Passat
350 amp alty
wiring? i have no idea... -[EDIT]- 25 feet of zero gauge and 10 feet of 8 gauge. That is my closest guess now.
3.5 cu ft box
two upgraded batteries (one in the front one in the trunk).
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if your sub is warm from 5 min of playing, even just regular playing... you are probably clipping the shit out of it.. did you set the gains with a Oscope?
Sorry I wasnt clear, kind of drank a little bit too much.
The smell comes no matter how loud I have been playing it. The magnet warming up is only when I play it loud. I was just trying to say that the speaker isnt getting crazy hot at high volumes and stays cool at low volumes.
And no I did not set anything with an Oscope. I need to get my hands on one and I really have not pushed my system at all and I wont until I snag one and rebuild my box.I am pretty new to this whole build your own system thing. I am hoping to have things up and running and banging the hardest I have ever felt in a month or two.
lol
WTB Fi BTL N2 15"
in Want To Buy
Posted · Edited by n8ball2013
duh
oh noes! I dont meet the requirements to sell here and if i do it again im going on a vacation.