ALPINE408
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Posts posted by ALPINE408
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First when I started my hobby of metal detecting, I do not know that there is a device called gold metal detector that can help me to have easier access to the gold metal and helps me sava time, then one of my friends told me about this device, I am so curious and want to find a good equippment to help me so I search the internet and find the one that I am satisfied and by now everything goes on well and I have find some gold coins by using such kind of gold metal detector.
Dafuq??
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We have a second set running power test cycles at the factory. They already passed 100-watts RMS per side for 8 hours -- yesterday we ran them up to 125-watts RMS for 8 hours as well. Will continue to run more cycles on them until failure and rate them around that level
Is that with or without the passive xovers??? Cause them passives can eat up a lot of wattage just trying to gauge true power handling if some one gos active over passive
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meh n8 any true sq head will toss the passive xovers and go full active if these are truly sq..... i would look for a 3 way set as well 6.5 4 and tweet
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I would go with spectrum spray on for safty
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I know a guy who didnt know that when strapping amps the ohm loads cut in half.. He wired his AB500.1s To .3 STRAPPED and they plYed daily no problem.. Dont know how They never blew either
some amps double your ohms when strapping
just cause some people do it and get LUCKY i stress lucky here they think they can do it all the time with any amp thats not the case i also know of a few that have ran there amps low blew them and replaced them before anybody knew and still to this day say they never had a problem lol cause fan boys can't have there brand look bad ya know!
can't belive everything you see on youtube
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Just an idea isnt useful info though when you are talking about wiring below 1 ohm. Most amps are 1 ohm stable. What this means is if they see much below 1 ohm reactive then they will go into protect. Your actual reactive impedance is going to be much lower on the lower notes than it is at your peak frequency.
Here is an example for you from a clamp test I did on my 7.5k.
Here are the rated specs for the 7.5k.
Features Voltage 7.5kw
Output Power (RMS)
at 4 ohm 14.4V 2200W x 1
at 2 ohm 4400W x 1
at 1 ohm 7500W x 1
at 1 ohm 16V 8600W x 1
at 1 ohm 18V 9200W x 1
This test was done in my 2006 Ford F150. I am running 1 Mike Singer 350a alt charging my 5 XS D1400 14v batteries at 16.4v
Voltage started at 16.4v.
Starting impedance is .67ohms
HZ----AMPS----VOLTS----WATTS----OHMS----Voltage Drop
30----
.9----96.5----7806.85---1.19----15.2v35----78.2----100.2---7835.64---1.28----15.2v
40----72.2----103.6---7479.92---1.43----14.1v
45----62.2----107.8---6705.16---1.73----14.7v
50----61.5----106.9---6574.35---1.74----14.7v
My starting Impedance was .67 ohms. As you can see, the lower hz of the tone played, the lower my rise was. Now consider that my peak frequency in my truck is 48hz. At 50hz, I have 1.1ohms of rise from .67 to 1.74. Of course I am going to be fine here, but down at 30hz, I was only rising from .67 to 1.19. Now if I were to drop back and be wired to .5 ohm and saw the exact same numbers, at 30hz I would be at 1 ohm reactive, but what about a lower note? I may have only seen .85 reactive at 25hz and either sent the amp into protect, or could have possible blown the amp.
This is why all of these numbers are useful for a daily driver if you want to run below 1 ohm.
you can't forget the fact that everytime the sub stops it drops to (in your case) .67 ohms then rises from that point so in daily your amp will see .67 ohms a lot of the time
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lol soooooooooo you cant explain it to me? then
is that why your getting mad cause you don't know and i was right?
its very easy to tell someone what they don't know by comments like that.... if you understood anything about ohm rise you would of never said what you did
Clamp and multi meter i just burp my peak freq and divide..dont like that you just assume i have no idea about the concept thats all
lol thanks for proving my point
incase you need help on my point you do not have a concept of it at all
soo go ahaead and tell people the false info of your ohm rise will be over 1 ohm and your good
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I don't get how I'm only pushing 200 watts even if my amps voltage drops to mid 12s. Well if so that's the hardest hitting 200 watts I've seen lol
you wont know untill you clamp even then you cant compare it beging to differnt subs that like differnt boxes, this box might be better suited for the dc and is why its louder
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lol soooooooooo you cant explain it to me? then
is that why your getting mad cause you don't know and i was right?
its very easy to tell someone what they don't know by comments like that.... if you understood anything about ohm rise you would of never said what you did
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with the comment nooo you don't
break it down for me then boss
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amps never see their wired load alpine. never ever ever....................
oh ya i forgot cause the sub never stops moving or changes frequency duhhhh
oh an Jman you do know it is very possible to have negatuve ohm rise to right? where your amp see lower than the nominal load
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i would wire it to .5 ohms more than likely you will be over 1 0hm after rise..or would at least test it out
^^^^^ has no concept of ohm rise
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did you even notice a differnce in sound? i would be surprized if you did
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thats far from stock electrical
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bottoming out has a very distinct sound.. not flappin its the bottom of the VC former hittting the bottom plate of the motor and sounds like a loud metal on metal tapping
flapping sounds usally come from exceeding the mechanical limits of the sub
long story short you ether have A. to much power B. your settings are fucked or C. all of the above
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you could spend the money to buy a second AQ amp to strap it and ACTUALLY SAVE $, rather than doing the electrical upgrades necessary to run something so small on .5 ohm. although upgraded electrical is always going to be good. an added point....your electrical that you have will probably be fine for two of those AQ's strapped at 2 ohms, if im wrong somebody else can chime in on that.
he would stinn need to upgrade eletrical if he buys a second 1200
2400 watts on stock is not gonna fly
I've got 2400 on my stock alt
and whats your voltage drop like how do your lights dim?>
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you could spend the money to buy a second AQ amp to strap it and ACTUALLY SAVE $, rather than doing the electrical upgrades necessary to run something so small on .5 ohm. although upgraded electrical is always going to be good. an added point....your electrical that you have will probably be fine for two of those AQ's strapped at 2 ohms, if im wrong somebody else can chime in on that.
he would stinn need to upgrade eletrical if he buys a second 1200
2400 watts on stock is not gonna fly
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buy a bigger amp the liitle bit of added power of a 1200 watt amp at .5 ohms is not worth the current draw you will face
a bigger amp at 1 ohm will most likly pull less current and give ya more power
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clipping is a pentaly in the nfl for fitting someone below the knees
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weigh it that will tell you with out a doubt
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so you make 35% more power from 14.4 to 18 volts
soooooooo with 3 9ks at 35% more power your getting 9k more power so its like having 4 9ks in there when you only have 3 nice
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1990 honda civic
2 15's xl's m1s
1 sd 12k
2 kinetic 2400's 1 2000 and 1 stock batt
153.6 seald at dash @ 42hz
152.8 meca headrest door open @ 42hz
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price is gonna be major factor for me
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.9----96.5----7806.85---1.19----15.2v
DC Price Reqest Thread
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Posted
2 dc 8's 94086