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bullet4mv92

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  1. Haha alright I'll get a hold of them. But basically if I can bypass the ELD, then the alternator setup becomes just like any other? Then I could just find someone who can custom make one for my car and put it in? Seeing as how the ELD no longer poses a problem?
  2. Oh snap, yes you do. Lol. So you know where I'm comin from. So do you think that, if I keep my alternator and battery up front stock, but add extra batteries in the back in addition to 6,000 watts of power to my sound system....If I turn my car on, turn my headlights and my A/C on, and rev the engine at 2k RPM for a bit, will my alternator be ok while I put the bass at full tilt? When you get to a certain wattage, batteries only help so much until they put too much strain on the alternator, don't they?
  3. I found the link for H/O alts for the Honda Fit, http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=264, although they're for a 2008 Fit so I don't know if they'd work with mine...and upon doing a different kind of search, apparently now there are ways to disable the ECM so it can't regulate the alternator anymore. Although I don't know if that's bad for it... I guess I'll keep asking around and researching :/ Since this is specifically a Honda problem I guess I'd have more luck on those forums. I appreciate the input! If anyone has any more info that could help though, feel free to post it. I could use all the help I could get.
  4. Maybe I need to contact engineers that actually MADE the Honda engine/ECM system, and ask them if there's a way to bypass the stupid regulating thing...I went into a dealership at some point a while back and asked the engineers there, but they were just like "nah you can't do it." But apparently there are people out there that have done it, so there must be a way.... I can check with Mechman, but the problem really lies within the car's electrical system.....I researched, and apparently Honda's are the ONLY cars with this alternator output-regulating system in it, which makes my alternator predicament different than any of you non-Honda owners. Unless you have a Honda with this ECM system. In which case, teach me your ways O_O
  5. Well I don't know HOW they did it, but they just said they rewired it to be high output...that's the extent of my knowledge about it lol. I don't think the issue of getting an alternator to fit in the car is the issue, so much as the Electronic Control Module...I'm no engineer, so I can't make complete sense of how it works, and what can be done to it, but from what I've read, getting a new H/O alt won't change how the ECM regulates it, but apparently rewiring the existing one will....I don't get it :/ which is why I'm asking you people lol.
  6. You're just referring to the Honda Fit alt, right? 'Cause I know plenty of other people with other cars that have had their alternators rewired for high output and they acted like a normal H/O alt. Didn't have any problems.
  7. I have a 2010 Honda Fit Sport, and apparently Honda's are the only cars on the planet that have an Electronic Control Module that regulates the alternator's output level. You can read about it here http://opensiuc.lib....ntext=auto_pres, but from what I've researched, the Honda Fit stock alt is incapable of being replaced by a High Output one, and that the only way to improve the alternator is to get it rewired for high output. The problem is, freaking NOBODY sells anything alternator-related for a Honda Fit. I've searched for hours, and unless I'm retarded, I can't find shit. I think at one point a while back I found H/O alts for 2008 Fits, but it was neither a 2010 nor for a sport model...and I can't find that page anymore, so that's useless.... According to Honda Fit-specific forums, some people said they were able to rewire their 2010 Honda Fit sport alternators for high output, but I can't get a hold of them to ask them how they went about doing it. But apparently, H/O alt rewiring kits are also made for specific cars, and I can't even find a rewiring kit for a 2010 Fit.... I didn't realize the guts to an alternator had to be specific to the car...or are they not? I figured, if the shape of the alt was the same so it could just fit right back into your car, you could get any kind of rewiring done to it and it wouldn't matter...I figured high output is high output, and didn't need to be vehicle-specific? Does anyone have any information that could help me? I'm In the Dallas/Fort worth area, so if anyone knows of nearby auto shops that would be able to help me, please let me know! This is driving me nuts.
  8. We have rules here, I suggest you read them over
  9. My system is set up perfectly fine. And I'm far from arrogant, you just reiterated exactly what I said. Nearly verbatim, in fact. I was merely pointing that out, and you automatically assume I'm arrogant? You seem a little defensive bud. And you know nothing of my car, so don't try and think you know everything about it. Besides, I was asking about a new subwoofer, and your input thus far has been unwanted and unnecessary. Thanks for nothing, and please don't comment again unless you think you can assist me in some way with the topic I initially posted about. Good day to you sir
  10. I didn't build it but I could probably get them in a little bit. But I've had the sub in 3 different boxes built by three different people, one being Car Toys, and one time it was inverted, and they all performed the same (save for the different tuning) so I don't see how the enclosure could be a problem.
  11. He built his own subwoofers and they each take 4,000w. He just half-assed mine and told me it could take 4,000w so I would buy it. I don't have pictures of it and I won't see my car until sunday, so I could post some pictures then.
  12. There's little to no clipping. The sub isn't "dead." It just sucks
  13. ....that's exactly what I said dude. He custom built the sub, so there's nowhere to research its specs. Therefore, it was easy for him to fuck me over. And the electrical system is fine, the enclosure is fine, and the amps are fine. I've gone from completely stock electrical, to big 3 upgrade and an extra battery in the back, I've had three different enclosures, and I've had 3 different amps on it, and no matter what I change, it's performed like a ~1,500w RMS sub would. Not like a 4,000w RMS one. It's the sub.
  14. ...or the guy just half-assed the sub because he built it knowing full well I wouldn't be able to research how many watts it could take.
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