Hotdog

Yes... Contacted mechman through pm and got a response right away... lead to a phone call with all the info I needed. So my decision is final now. I will be buying from Mechman in 2 weeks. Thanks Mechman for quick responses and the quick call.. just have to wait 2 week

What does ftmfw mean?

Nice first setup... problem is now your going to want more

I just sent mechman a pm also

that 2008 300c looks the best... already got the tint also.

Ok thanks for the added info.. I will patiently wait for a reply from DC Power.

Thanks for the info... did you try contacting them after the sale with the problem? what was there response?

Called.. left a message for him. Should I call his Cell? I understand he is busy and if this is his only day off I don't want to bother him... let a man get a break you know

Definitely do not want to waste my money Definitely want an Alternator that will take some abuse. I would buy one right now but I only get paid once a month so everything has to be done in the first week of the month. so on the other question has anyone had any experiences with DB Electrical? http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items...%2005%20%207773 This comes with a 1 year warranty and the guy has been doing this for over 20 years

Need some input on an alternator.. been looking around and I found this one. I contacted this guy and he replied the same day with this link to an alternator for my 2003 Mountaineer. DB Electrical I think this is the route I am going to go. has anyone else ever used DB Electrical? buying an alternator to me is important and I want one that is going to be reliable.. with my recent audio upgrades it is painfully obvious that I need a new alternator, along with a couple battery's.. I am thinking of going with 2 Kinetic 1400's may be more then what I need but I want room for expansion. I have tried contacting DC Power several times through PM with no reply's I would like info on there products and availability for my 2003 Mercury Mountaineer with a 4.6L V8. but I have not heard anything. I looked at there site but it does not seem to be complete cant find anything for Ford/Mercury. Rob tried contacting you on June 20 Kyle tried contacting you on July 2nd and sent you an email early this morning. I would like to support the forum and DC Power if I could.. that being said I hope to hear from one of you before the end of the month. because I will be buying an alternator no later then Aug 1.

I don't think it is my fuel filter because I just had that change at the ford dealership 2 months ago and I always maintain the vehicle.. Fresh oil change last week. I am going to recheck all the grounds today.. maybe take out my ground distribution block and bolt them all on also. My only thought that I have at this point is I was told that power likes to travel through the line with the least resistance and my alternator originally went straight to the fuse box under the hood then went to the battery from the fuse box. I am wondering if maybe my problem is that my wire running from the alternator to the fuse box is still stock and I added the Alternator to battery with an inline fuse to the battery with 1/0 wire..... so is it possible that the power is not staying constant through the wire from the Alt to the fuse box? anyway more on this later after I check things out some more..

I was under the impression that you should hold 14.1 volts all the time unless of course your abusing your system ... But voltage does drop when slowing down to a stop sometimes 11.9 volts to 12.5 volts (keep in mind everything is off..no ac..no radio). Then when I put my foot on the gas it jumps right back up to 13.9 volts... so that is normal? The Idle is better now and it is not dieing on me now... (( Knock on Wood )) When I am at highway speeds I can crank the stero wide open with very little dip in voltage usually only a couple tenths of voltage.

So I went back to square one and checked all my connections.. got rid of the distribution block on the positive terminal and put another one on. I have to put connector ends on all the wiring so and they bolt to the battery now, so I know I have a good connection now. I took the voltage meter out of the distribution block and mounted it in the vehicle in a nice location where I can monitor the voltages from inside. I am idling at 13.6 now but I notice that when I am driving and slow down to make a turn that it will dip to 12.6. Initially when I did the big three I was holding 14.2 volts... could the difference be a ground point somewhere? I can rule out my Ground from Alt to Chassis cause I know that is definitely solid.. I am thinking that if there is a weak spot on the ground it would have to be the neg distribution block... maybe I will change it out. anymore thoughts? thanks for all the reply's so far

Checked the Positive terminal this morning and it is tight and secure... Dont know if it could be the wiring itself I am looking for a better way to secure the wiring to the battery terminal itself. I like the distro block I have, but I am not happy with how the wires secure to the distro. where does everyone get there buss bar that they use on there positive terminal?

No have not added an Alternator or upgraded yet but that is my next step. I will check my Positive terminal tomorrow... Maybe that is the cause because I did see an error that said check the charging system... I though that maybe I popped a diode on my Alternator but it seems to be charging fine.

Lately I notice that my Idle when I am at a stop light or stop sign is not normal.. it is like there is a little shimmer in the idle. I don't know if it is do to all the stereo equipment that I have recently installed but I guess I cant rule it out. It has died on me a couple of time at a stop light but it would start right back up, Voltages look good at the battery too. Any suggestions?

Pizza.. by far Meat lovers pizza

Yea, he was a great quarterback... Seems like a lot of famous people are dropping like fly's.

Excellent Seller... Quick responses to questions ... Fast Shipping... Highly recommended. Thank you Emperorjj1 for such a smooth transaction.

To be honest I am at the age now where the kids are old enough that they want to hang around there friends now.. so I prefer to just work so people with younger kids can take them to fireworks. I have seen them enough besides my neighbor lights off fireworks all year round.

the usual stuff... I might even play sounds of fireworks going off really loud in mt ride bet explosions sound good...

What is a dmm ... I am not good with abbreviation.

I could probably get by with the gain all the way down couldn't I... I would think I would not have to turn it up at all.

It would just be temporary until I got my other P2's... of course if it sounds like ass then I would just use the p2's by them self

So better off just running at 4 ohm? or how could I wire it to get the most out of the amp without smoking the subs? That makes sense.. never thought of it like that