AUDIOADDICT02
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Posts posted by AUDIOADDICT02
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Only bad thing about going with a stock replacement head gasket after getting the heads milled is that the compression ratio is going to be higher due to less chamber CC volume. Probably wont make much of a difference but will be there. That is why if you mill your heads .001 or .002 of an inch you want to get a head gasket that is .001 or .002 thicker than stock. Have you checked out the radiator yet?
Very true, problem is I didn't ask & they didn't tell me how much they were milled down. As for cr, I'm aiming at at least 10.1, but will be done with a head swap down the road. I haven't really messed with it lately, did a bit of driving here & there & it felt damn good, but I'm trying to change the radiator before I do any long trips.
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For all out performance get long tube headers with excellent merge collectors, and do a true dual 3" system with a cross over pipe. Now, whether you do an X cross over or an H crossover is up to you. For mufflers, get glasspacks, as those flow the most, and sound the best =) Also, consider the sound of an H pipe and an X pipe. Both sound different, and both are very different.
That's what I was thinking, with 1 7/8" primaries. I have a glasspack on it atm & sounds pretty damn good. =)
Magnaflow makes nice mufflers, stainless steel is nice.
Idk, I'm kinda sold on them Cherrybombs though, with their glasspack & vortex mufflers flowing like crazy & sounding real good, besides, you won't be able to see my pipes so stainless would be kind of a waste imo.
Straight pipe it! Lol
lol. I've decided that will have them straight-piped to the fenders with QTP cut-outs & a y-pipe out back to single silent muffler.
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Are you kidding? Small car parts are way more expensive! What you need to do for the Ford is get an aftermarket coolant temp gauge and install it. Keep an eye on it all the time. You do need a thermostat, so put one back in (new preferably) and as for blowing a head gasket in 5 months, there's something more serious than just a bad thermostat. You need to take the block and heads to a machine shop to have them checked out. Then clean both the deck and the heads and install a good brand new multi layer steel head gasket (available at autozone or O'Reilly's or anywhere online for cheap!) and get a new set of head bolts for both heads. (Also available for cheap!) Then, make sure you use the correct torque sequence as well as the right torque specifications with a known good torque wrench and you should be good =)
Depends for what though, for example, rotors; for my old Mazda I could've gotten them for what, $30/pr., now for the truck, they're almost 100 a piece.
I will be installing a new temp gauge since the original one acts funny as hell. Heads & the block were taken to the machine shop & the deck was fine, got the heads resurfaced. I really wanted mls gaskets, but they are $80 a piece & I wasn't getting paid til a week after the gasket blew, so I got Ford Racing steel core laminate hg's which were the same price for the pair(also made by Felpro). Also, everyone swears by Felpro, but their basic hg didn't really convince me, which was like perforated sheet metal with a layer of cardboard or something??
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Well I did the same thing on mine also. Still was overheating. So took the radiator out and took it to a radiator shop to have them sonic clean it. 20 minutes after I dropped it off I get a call back from them to just come pick it up since it was so compacted with sediment. Half of the radiator was completely clogged with stuff.
Damn, that's crazy, I'm looking into a replacement, but damn they're not cheap compared to small car parts.
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Check your radiator also. Mine was completely packed (86 f150). Cause my engine to overheat. Replace the radiator and never overheated again.
It seems fine now, I did a full flush & filled it back up with coolant. I'm still planning to change the radiator since it's old as hell & the water pump while I'm at it, I don't want to risk this sh*t happening again, as much as I love working on cars, replacing a head gasket is a pain in the a$$!
Chevy 454?
My dads truck had similar issues earlier, but it sits, then works real fuckin hard
Anyway
Looked into the exhaust side? His warped the headers
could deffently speed the process of a head gasketNo, Ford 460. The one in my avy has the 454 & has hot-start issues. :/
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Yes I do & I keep my eye on it , but apparently these older fords are known for inaccurate temp gauge readings, the day the gasket blew it didn't go past the A in "normal" so I'm going to replace it with a aftermarket gauge & see what that one reads.
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So you think the thermostat malfunctioned and the motor overheated?
I'm guessing so because when I pulled over to check the engine the day the gasket blew after seeing steam coming out from under the hood, the hose going from the radiator to the thermostat housing was inflated.
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New thermostat to. Put a straight edge on the deck surface when you get the heads off to make sure the deck is flat. Heads to.it blew for some reason. You'd have to get it way hot to warp enough to blow it.
Took the thermostat off since it wasn't opening. I took the block to the machine shop & it wasn't warped. I also got the heads resurfaced.
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Ok, thanks for the response, I'll be looking into that this week since I already ordered new head gaskets.
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Everything was done properly when we had the heads rebuilt 5 months ago. I'm guessing it blew because the thermostat failed to open & I do a lot of towing/heavy hauling/aggresive driving.
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I would for sure do an x or h pipe, the scavenging effect helps even out, and speed up exhaust flow, as well as helping it sound better, an h is gonna sound a little smoother, but an x flows a little better. If u wanna get crazy, you could fab up a prochamber like MAC makes, and they are the best of both worlds
Exactly what I thought it would do. About the prochamber, how does that work? I've been looking around for them, but it seems like they're just "improvised" H-pipes.
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Fml. I blew a head gasket today on my way home and now I'm looking for good replacement. Current gasket was only about 5 months old before it gave out again. - _ -
So my question is: Does anybody have any suggestions to possibly the best replacement gasket for this engine? And how to choose one?(bore size, etc.)
Thanks in advance.
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I had a 85 F250 with the 460ci in high school. I had a single 3in and loved the way it sounded. I highly doubt that you will notice a difference in performance or fuel mileage if you go either direction. I liked the single 3in cause it had a loud yet tight sound.
Did you notice power with that setup?
I've been told numerous times that a single 3" will increase mpg, but if the duals get me more power, I figure I might as well do that.
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Dont put a x pipe in.
I would do a TRUE DUAL 2.25 or a SINGLE 3in
Your gonna get more exhaust flow with the dual system its just all about how u want it to sound as well.
Or u can always do TRUE DUAL 3in all the way to the back. or just dump it
Why no x-pipe? I feel like it will balance they way the exhaust flows.
What about an "H" pipe?
I'm trying to reach the 500+ HP mark with this engine so I don't want to risk losing power because of a bad exhaust design.
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No problem man. You don't need top of the line tools to do the job in most cases it's about technique. I've painted complete cars with spray guns from HF.
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Had to choose stealthy since I personally love the clean, organized, factory look installs rather than aftermarket/customized. Of course it all depends on what the system consists of.
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Yes it can, although you might want to try a test piece first(I had "Krylon" wrinkle up one me when spraying clear on it), most rattle cans are "enamel" paints & our local Finishmaster gives out enamel basecoat when using a clearcoat system. It'll be okay as long as you're using solvent-based paints.
I'd personally stay away from laquer.
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After you have smoothed everything out & prepped the surface, you could use a rattle can(AVOID KRYLON at all costs)! for color, but to really make it shine, I would recommend spraying a good quality urethane clearcoat followed by wetsanding & buffing once it's all cured.
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Thanks for the response man.
exhaust manifolds will definitely be replaced with headers, vehicle is also non-catalyst. If I do duals I will be putting an x over pipe.
I will be doing the exhaust work myself since I have all the proper equipment, I just want to get a sure response wether single or dual is better for more power since I'll be swapping the iron heads to aluminum, aftermarket cam kit, hopefully a tunnel ram with dual carbs & a recurved distributor.
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Ok guys, so I have a Ford F250 with a 460cu.in. 7.5L engine and I will be doing a full exhaust swap soon, so my question is this:
What setup will give me more power? single 3" exhaust or dual 2.25"/2.5" exhaust with a crossover pipe?
I was told not to do dual 3" exhaust because it will "bottom out" the engine & lose power & single 3" will also give me better gas milage, but at my current 9 MPG, I'd prefer power over fuel economy.
Hoping someone with experience on this topic can point me in the right direction.
Thanks in advance.
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$4.29 in Riverside....worst part is I'm pumping about $40-$50 a day.
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he shoulda let you go just for that response!
Edit: If it's written as modified exhaust then it's most likely a fix it ticket. If its a bolt on system and you still have your stock muffler then just do that long enough to get it written off then pay the $10 fix it ticket then switch it back.
CHP signs off tickets for free..
That's weird, probally just a picky cop, i went to get my ticket signed off once & I have straight pipe with cherry bomb glasspack & they didn't say anything about it.
It was a bike cop, so that whole "quota" thing is probably part of it. I'll see whats up when I get the slip in the mail.
Worst ones out there in most cases, they'll try to f*** you for any little reason, as stated before, get it metered to make sure & see if you can fight it if anything..
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he shoulda let you go just for that response!
Edit: If it's written as modified exhaust then it's most likely a fix it ticket. If its a bolt on system and you still have your stock muffler then just do that long enough to get it written off then pay the $10 fix it ticket then switch it back.
CHP signs off tickets for free..
That's weird, probally just a picky cop, i went to get my ticket signed off once & I have straight pipe with cherry bomb glasspack & they didn't say anything about it.
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That's is sick man how exactly u attached it?
Thanks man. I had to chop off the original mirror mounting bolts & frames, put new ones in, & make new holes in the door piece. if you look closely at some of the pics you could see the new bolt heads on the mirror base, glassed over them & nuts from the inside to keep them on the truck.
could deffently speed the process of a head gasket
he shoulda let you go just for that response!
Exhaust type recommendations?
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
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That's the bad thing about them, mpg drops real bad. I had a stock muffler from a titan a while back to silence it & it didn't use nearly as much gas as it does now, & with gas at almost $5 a gallon, that's where my money goes with the bbf.