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AUDIOADDICT02

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Everything posted by AUDIOADDICT02

  1. Powder coating would be your best bet, cheap & durable. or you could get them painted & clearcoated professionally, this how mine came out when I did em:
  2. now that sucks. hopefully you will have everything the next time i come here(when i move back to cali for good) When will that be? I'm currently stuck doing a full engine rebuild so sounds won't be done for quite a while now. Around the beginning of 2013. But ill be Here for good to be close to my wife and my 2 kids. Good to hear man, nothing better than to be with your loved ones. Where will you be staying when you move out here, in L.A. or I.E? Still?! Change that alt man! (Btw I saw the Silverado you want again today. )
  3. Could have also been the type of compounds, polishes... This ALWAYS works for me: 2000 grit thorough sand Wool pad or yellow foam pad with 3M rubbing compound Black foam pad with 3M foam pad glaze(aka machine glaze) & another black foam pad with 3M Finnesse-it (or 3M perfect it) finishing material. ^That ALWAYS works for me. anything else won't shine as good, from my personal experience.(Sorry Meguiars, you f*cking suck!) Another thing; don't wax your car for about 3 months after painting, you have to let the clear cure.
  4. lol. probably won't work since I need about a full year & a half to finish my beast!
  5. now that sucks. hopefully you will have everything the next time i come here(when i move back to cali for good) When will that be? I'm currently stuck doing a full engine rebuild so sounds won't be done for quite a while now.
  6. It's originally 4.36" bore. I'm going to build it up with aftermarket pistons & rods, raise the cr to 10.5:1 with a heads swap, oversized cam(matching the 10.5:1 cr), etc. bottomline, I'm aiming at 500+ hp. DAILY DRIVER. Yes it is, but I'm not making it a stroker engine, I'm going with the stock 3.85" stroke, besides daily will murder my wallet. Piston #8 broke & it was a big chunk, so I thought I'd bore it again just in case. I know it's a d8te block, 2 bolt main(prefer 4, but gotta work with I got)...I have read about engines being bored .1 over & run strong. There's not many reliable shops around my area, but from the people I've asked that build performance engines & from what I've read, .060 would pretty much be my limit. Not too worried about running hot since the cooling system will be upgraded. I'm also scared of pulling a block out from the scrapyard getting a bad block & just waste money.
  7. Ok, got another question for the engine builders on here: I recently pulled my block apart & noticed that the pistons have .030 stamped on them, correct me if I'm wrong, but I assume the block has already been bored 30 over.? If that's the case, boring it over another .030 will put me at .060 total making it a 472ci big block, would it be worth it in that case, or is .060 kinda pushing it?(ok, make that two questions)
  8. Didn't read through the whole post, but I have spring compressors if you wanna borrow 'em, or I can do 'em for you, just give me what your feel is a fair price for my time/labor.
  9. I did not know that, I'm going to look into that since adapters are out of the question.
  10. Cole? That's up close to Mockingbird, right? All them biga$$ houses.. Lol right. I was gonna hit you up the other day man After (not hearing) but feeling 160, I don't think anything less will suffice for my bass needs!lol. You should've man, phone was disconnected for a lil while, but it's back on now.
  11. Thanks for the response man. The problem with that is the adapters are $200 a pair, iirc, & they would make my truck look hella mexiflush since I'm planning to put normal truck wheels, not mud grapplers. As of now, I'm stuck between late model Chevy 8 lug factory wheels or H2 wheels since they are 8x6.5 bolt pattern.
  12. Sorry to get in your guys' conversation & threadjacking, but I live across the street from those places. Shit-hole area. I really didn't think that area was too bad. There's a lot worse IMO. How long have you lived out there? Trust me dude, I came from worse, much worse! Been here about 8 years now, WAS real nice, now there's just a bunch of crackheads, thieves, bums & wankstas. Gettin' ready to move out now.
  13. Sorry to get in your guys' conversation & threadjacking, but I live across the street from those places. Shit-hole area.
  14. Lol same here. Went from my setup to skyhighcaraudios truck. It's a great experience and makes you want to upgrade Lol! After that, it's 160.2 or nothing!
  15. Can someone help me out here? As most you may know by now, I drive an older ('84) F250 & well, my tires are going bald, but getting 16.5" tires is hard as f*ck, I literally went to 10 tire shops & only one had a 16.5 tire, old as hell for $50. So basically, I want to replace the almost extinct 16.5" wheels with newer ford 8 lug wheels, only problem is my bolt pattern is 8x6.5(165mm) & the wheels I can get for cheap are 8x117mm. So can I safely put those wheels on my truck? or do they absolutely have to be 8x6.5?
  16. They're way better than stock yellow bulbs, even the road signs will shine white, but are not as bright as hid's tho.
  17. Not trying to bash you, but 2000 grit for paint? That's what is used when color-sanding & buffing. Even when just re-clearcoating we sand with 600/800 grit & you can't tell it's been sanded.
  18. No problem man, if you feel 320 is too rough, you could step it up to 400 or 600 grit, anything finer will allow the paint to peel right off as if it were just skin, trust me, I've been there, done that when it comes to paint. Good luck man!
  19. To paint plastics I sand with 320grit, spray a bit of adhesion promoter, followed by the basecoat & topped off with the clearcoat. Edit: paint itself is plastic anyway, idk why people make it a big deal when painting plastics, just perform the proper procedures & you're good.
  20. I know how you feel man, to kill time I go to 9gag.com, memebase.com, evilmilk.com(few sexy chick pics.lol), & occasionally funnyjunk.com. Otherwise I watch YT vids on how to do something.
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