AUDIOADDICT02
-
Posts
676 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by AUDIOADDICT02
-
-
My truck insurance will cover the charges. I run a $0.00 deductible on my comprehensive because this has happened before. This is my third system, and I had one truck stolen altogether. It's not my fault for having a nice truck, it's their fault for being fucksticks.
now imagine when i get my 08 sierra denali single cab on 26"
...and in L.A., good luck man!...either way, there's fuckhead thieves everywhere.
-
each time I fix one thing 3 more problems pop up.
*sigh* Mazda/Ford.
Sell to buy a more reliable car man.
-
It was such a nice car and if and older person wanted it all the stereo equip would come out with out any collateral damage. It is just a shame it is not on the road. Was pretty loud for a trunk. Might end up with the same subs in a 1983 T-top Cutlass on a Memphis 1000D.
Yep, I've seen many cars where old equipment has been removed & people are left with holes all over the place so they have to replace/repair panels, headliners, etc..
Try the subs in a ported enclosure next time, I bet you'll be way happier!
-
No holes drilled into the car.
I respect that a lot, keeping the car's resale value. I personally hate making holes into cars or cutting into them if not needed, I try to keep them as factory as possible.. -
Hello, my name is Biff. I am new to this site and have not been on the internet to long. This is the first website I have been on that has to do with car audio. I started doing this 6 years ago on a driveway. This is the 2nd system I built and I was wondering what other peoples thoughts are on it. I have a shop and was the only one in it til this year. When a friend came home from Iraq and needed a place to build his GN. Work a day job as a machinist and everything has been done with a 40 hour paycheck. There are some amazing set-ups on here and I am hoping I can learn alot from people with the same interests.
Thanks.
Biff
'Sup Biff, I'm Marty Mcfly! lmao(sorry, I had to, I love that movie)
Anyways, welcome to the forum man! You will learn lots here just by looking through other's builds.
Nice system btw, is that a sealed box?
-
Call me on Monday, I will tell you what we have and what deals are available.
Eric.
Will do man!
haha thanks a lot mate for the kind words, but i definitely suck sometimes lol, i built a 2 15´s and 5000 watts system yesterday that didn´t hit even the 49´s hahaha man that sucks
Damn, trial & error man, it's how you learn!
-
-
spend the money and get a mechman unit he could probably even work something out with you that would actually fit your truck the right way
that one from ebay probably does 200a yes but at like 5234985720956 rmp
lol. True, I'll hit up mechman & see what they can do...& for how much!
-
this is the wiring diagram for the ford alt, you can call mechman and they can hook you up with an alt that only needs one wire to make it charge, the diagram is if you want to get an original alternator
Ah, I see, thanks man!
-
They make universal ho alts too
True, but the biggest I found was 100 amp, I was thinking more like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-TRUCK-CKRV-NEW-ALTERNATOR-200A-HIGH-AMP-2005-6-0L-/250883714026?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a69d5abea#ht_1257wt_1110
-
i added a 3 wire alt to my truck just a few weeks ago, i did one straight to battery then got a resistor from radio shack and ran that wire to the ignition and the other one to a power distribution block and it is charging 14.4 now. you can google it and find wiring diagrams for alts and you can also put GM alt on a ford
Ok, but do you absolutely need to use the other outputs on the alt if it's a secondary alt? Also, I'm not trying to replace the original alt in my truck, it's only a few days old.
yes you need to use all wires for it to charge not unless you get a 1 wire alternator
not true
trust me, my truck had a si10 alt in it and i upgraded it to the cs130 and pluged up the charging wire and when i turned on my truck it was 12.3 volts even if i was at 2k rpm. i got the red wire from my pigtail and wired it to distribution block constant power and still at 12.3 volts, then i was reading about the alternator voltage regulator needing to get excited before being able to charge so i read on it some more and it said to get a 500ohm resister and put it on the white wire and run it to the ignition and bam i was charging at 14.4. you can also use an idiot light and that will help charge too, mine is GM though so for might be different but could be easy if you read about it.
edit:as long as the excite wire and volt sense wire is connected you are good
some fords have external regulators so you might just be lucky and plugging in the charging wire is good enough
Yep, mine has an external voltage regulator & I have the wiring diagram so it should be easy then.
-
I have a Nissan Versa´s alternator on my suzuki swift, works awesome
Doesn't surprise me that you make anything work when it comes to car audio!!
i added a 3 wire alt to my truck just a few weeks ago, i did one straight to battery then got a resistor from radio shack and ran that wire to the ignition and the other one to a power distribution block and it is charging 14.4 now. you can google it and find wiring diagrams for alts and you can also put GM alt on a ford
Ok, but do you absolutely need to use the other outputs on the alt if it's a secondary alt? Also, I'm not trying to replace the original alt in my truck, it's only a few days old.
yes this is possible i am doing this exact thing on my truck i have a '91 c1500 and i am putting a 400a mechman alt on it as a secondary for an 18v system but the new alt is for a new body style truck with the ls based engine call mechman and they can hook you up proper you just need a single one wire turn on lead and you are golden
Ok thanks man, really cleared up my confusion there. I'm currently upgrading/improving most parts on this truck to make it as reliable as possible. I'm hoping to get started system wise by the beginning of the year, so stay put!
-
i added a 3 wire alt to my truck just a few weeks ago, i did one straight to battery then got a resistor from radio shack and ran that wire to the ignition and the other one to a power distribution block and it is charging 14.4 now. you can google it and find wiring diagrams for alts and you can also put GM alt on a ford
Ok, but do you absolutely need to use the other outputs on the alt if it's a secondary alt? Also, I'm not trying to replace the original alt in my truck, it's only a few days old.
-
nice builds
Thanks?
..btw, I'm in the process of repairing my truck from the first post, so more than likely I will be able to work on your ride during the week since my carburetor ain't coming in 'til Monday.
-
yes you can install any alt to it with some brackets made for it
Ok, cool. I had to ask because alts have a + output straight to the battery, but they also have those extra wires that plug in, I was wondering if it affected the alt's charging potential if those other wires were not being used..
-
What up smd brethren, so I have this old '84 F250 with a 460cu.in. 7.5L engine and I'm trying to find a bigger/better secondary alt for it, but there's nothing but 60/70 amp alts..
So, my question is: Can I just get a 100+ amp alt from say a newer car and just put it in there(with custom brackets of course) just hooked up straight to the battery? Will it work properly just like that?
EDIT: Reason I ask is because I eventually will get to doing a blow-thru with 2 15hdc3/4's, so I want to be sure I can keep my electrical strong.
-
"I hit 160+db with (enter cheap brand name amp here) powering (enter cheapshit subwoofer brand here)."
-
Old Autotek MM series where good amps, newer stuff is pretty well junk.
Crunch's GP series isn't bad, the rest is also pretty well junk.
Mixed reviews on MB Quart. The Discus I've heard some good about, some bad. The Onyx seems to do rated but haven't heard much else about them.
Power Acoustik is junk.
Soundstorm is junk.
If your on a REALLY tight budget, Audiopipe's AP series does rated for cheap.
If you have a little more to spend Crescendo has some nice stuff, really nice prices for the quality you get as well.
Also if you're looking for 1k-ish, look for a used AQ1200, should be able to find them cheap.
x2, my buddy has a Crunch Powerone mono(2000w) powering two 12s & it gets warm & shuts off after a while of playing & it just doesn't sound as loud as 2 12's should. You get what you pay for.
-
That's f*cking bada$$!!!
Apparently this dude lives here in Riverside, Imma have to go see it in person!lol
-
Gods cl post ?
http://www.craigslist.org/about/best/min/2505248081.html -gave me a good laugh when i read it.
-
That's a dual amp so more like 100 watts lol
just a FYI duals are cea compliant... i know surprised the shit outta me too
Yea man, I wouldn't doubt them, I had an old school 2-ch dual amp pushing 2 he2's, man they bumped good!
-
Damn, good sh*t!
Btw, by the title I thought it would be about the coffee table for the gods CL post.lol
-
LOTS of factors determine the final cost of a paintjob.
For a decent economy paintjob, you're looking at about $1,000 minimum.
OR, you could get the local special for about $300 that will fade in less than year.
How much do you charge for paint?
Depends on paint type/brand & condition of the car's body...generally around $1000 for small cars & $1500+ for suv's using economy urethane paints-cars with minor dings here and there...
-
LOTS of factors determine the final cost of a paintjob.
For a decent economy paintjob, you're looking at about $1,000 minimum.
OR, you could get the local special for about $300 that will fade in less than year.
I respect that a lot, keeping the car's resale value. I personally hate making holes into cars or cutting into them if not needed, I try to keep them as factory as possible..
.gif){kind=small}
'10 Avalanche bose sysytem?
in Head Units-Processors and Eq's
Posted
Ok, I'm hoping somebody can help me out here. My uncle has a 2010 Avalanche with the bose system & doesn't want to change the factory hu. He has an aftermarket system in it with hi-lows, but he's getting a real muffled sound even with the hp freq at it's highest. According to my research, the factory bose system treats the rear speakers as mids with no treble.
So my question is: Does anyone know or know of a diagram that shows the hu wire colors going into the amp from the hu so that I can hook up the hi-lows from the hu itself?
I can't seem to find anything that specifies that. I would appreciate if you guys can point me in the right direction here. Thanks in advance.