D-train-13k
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Posts posted by D-train-13k
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those subs will take 2k cleanly. theyre pretty underrated. but after rise doing 1500 youll be fine. as long as its clean power.
i have level 4 coils on my level 3's and im planning on doing 1.1k to each after rise.
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ur not fitting a proper t-line in a trunk. maybe an 8 would fit, but def not a 15.... and welcome!
i agree. maybe a seasoned tline builder could do something like that. but for your first time i would suggest doing ALOT of research. i myself am learning more about TLines. and they are pretty large.
i would suggest maybe a nice 4th order for that. its a little less complicated and will sound great. but if you do still want to attempt tline enclosures i would read the 1/4 wave tutorial that foreverbumpin posted up. its filled with alot of good information
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id prolly do 1.75 per. especially with two bc 2ks
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ground noise maybe?
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well i havent checked this in a day and this is what i get. lol
thanks guys. i figured it acted on the same basis as a wall. and yeah i was looking to help reduce trunk rattle.
this is for my brothers hyundai elantra like 2000's model.
i was planning on trying a tline in this with two SA12's on a BC2k. but his mother wont allow it lol. so i figured a sealed off trunk would be the next best thing.
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What are the advantages of sealing off a trunk and doing subs and port firing into the cab? Is it the same idea as a wall?
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have you checked the guts?
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Amp iz fuked.
x2
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ok thanks
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i do have motors. just would need baskets and those level 4 recones you and i discussed a while back
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i know yalls website says there are not 18's available for the level 3 motors.
but i was just wanting to make sure that yall will be able to a custom basket for them. due to money issues i wont be able to the original idea of 4 15's
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I'm actually pretty interested in 4th orders as well, I noticed somebody said 2:1 ratio ported side to sealed side but what if you had 2 12" subs? How would that work in a 4th order exactly?
you would still keep the overall two to one ratio. in my box i have two sealed sections
as you can see there is one for each sub.
it does not have to be each sub has its own individual space. but overall you still need to have a 2:1 ratio. like 12's would be .75 sealed for each sub. so 1.5net then 3 cubes ported. to keep the overall ratio correct
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like zayers said. on the 4th order making the port pretty large and going down is the easiest way to tune. have most of the port outside of the box. that way you can figure out what the tuning is that will fit your needs.
like a test box that you can control different sized ports.
i have two 12's in a 4th order with a little over 22insq of port area. but most of my port is sitting outside the box
when tuning 4th orders your going to tune your ported side pretty high. so basically 50 hz is the higher end of tuning. pretty much to get the low end of the box youll tune closer to 45hz
mine is tuned to 46 and it is phenominal on the low end.
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oh ok. well i believe the voltage controller is 50 dollars extra.
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Looks like we have a winner!
I'm holding out for a pr of Chameleon ones
Yes these will add support and stiffen around the cone as they wont flex lol I'll see if I have any protos left that I could stand on
Sexy as Hell!
awesome! looks like ill be getting these! and possibly cf cones
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Cherokee? U can get the high output alt in the factory location with a voltage module and b fine with ability to adjust voltage....contact matthew he'll hook u up at mechman
yeah i figured he could. but call matt and hell hook you up. you could prolly go with a 270 amp alt. with the voltage module you wont have any lights.
but id get the biggest bat you can fit up front and then a d3100 in the back. you should be good
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warning lights meaning check engine and check battery and stuff like that right ? wow im getting scare now if my wife was to see those warning lights turn on after i changed something in the car i would never hear the end of it lmao
yeah lol. those lights are pretty stupid. but like i said call up mechman and he should be able to get you situated. there might be a bypass that he makes. i know its pretty vehicle specific but it will allow you to control your voltage and bypass your computer
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its for my 2005 jeep grand cherokee and the engine size v6 3.7l if that matters too?
if i were you i would call mechman or someone to see how yours will work. they have more experience with more specific vehicles. and mechman has great customer service and is great about returning phone calls and answering and questions you have.
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If this anything like the 07+ tahoe ull have to add the alt isolated from the stock electrical and ran to the system battery bank
ive actually encountered this. the computer did not want the high output alt to work. it would set off all kinds of dash lights saying service engine soon.
then when the new alt was mounted outside on the bracket it had alot of ground noise. and me and some more experienced poeple could not figure out what was causing it.
and Kriss i would have at least 3 or 4 large batteries for a system like that.
but yes it is both good and bad to have a pcm controlled alt. if you alt is in sufficient the computer will notice before hand and set off warning lights in your vehicle
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well you would need to figure out how much amperage your amps will be pulling from your battery.
so if you have plenty of batteries and that alternator then you should be good. you need to have enough amperage to be able to charge your batteries enough to keep up with the demand of you system.
it only takes about 50 amps i believe to run most of the accesories in your vehicle. such as having ac on and lights etc.
so make sure you have enough batteries to run your system. since having an alternator that is large enough to power everything including a large system is going to be difficult and impracticle.
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a 2:1 ratio is for every 1 cubic foot of sealed side there should be around 2 cubes on the ported side. that is net volume.
so you should look up the manufacturers recomended sealed box volume and go from there. say your 10 needs .5 cubes for a sealed box. you would need 1 cube of volume for the ported side of the enclosure
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your engine is going to try and control your alternator to give the vehicle the power it needs to run first. so if you have a large alternator with enough power to distribute everything evenly and fill the engines needs you should be fine.
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the power train control module controls various engine electrical as well as the tranny.
basically anything that has to do with moving the power both electrical and mechanical around in your vehicle
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okay. usually people go with a 2:1 ratio. thats about the minimum that people go with to get the most output from their stuff.
however the curve is gonna be a little peaky. so you do need to decide what kind of area youd like to get the most out of your sub. such as the lows or mids or highs if you want.
its not going to cut out the highs if you go on the lower end. but they will not sound super impressive, however the low end will sound really amazing.
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8" subs
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
i would go with the Sa 8's they are very very strong. and personally i like them more than the DC8's
even though im a big DC fan the SA8's will outperform the DC's