D-train-13k
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Posts posted by D-train-13k
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yeah puttin on penatrating oil and lube with the long pipe on the end of your wrench will act like a breaker bar. giving you huge amounts of torque but you wont have to put in much effort.
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Yo Kevin, i wouldn´t buy 2 more and wire them @ 2 ohms each one, after impedance rise those amps aren´t gonna give you WAY MORE power than the one you already have, remember something about impedance rise, if you are wired at 1 ohm and your real impedance it´s at 2 ohms, this means your impedance rise it´s X2 no matter what wiring configuration you have, in other words, so in that same example, if you wire the amplifier to 2 ohms, you are gonna get 4 ohms
This means, that having 4 amplifiers at 2 ohms each one should give you a big ass gain, i don´t doubt it would be louder but i don´t think it worth the money!! I would save some more money, sell the AP´s and buy myself a single AQ3500.1 and wire that thing to 0.5 ohms since i know you have a decent electrical and you are peaking on higher frequencies , they have even more rise so the amplifier should be save!!
i agree that sounds like a good idea
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i play with my widows down all the time.
though ive heard that if your system gets louder when you open the windows that you need more port.
but other than that i dont think leaving your windows down with the subs playing loud will cause them to unload.
plus as your driving the wind is causing preassure to come inside your car.
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im the same way. i hate school lol. but im trying to get an EE degree and i hate math.
but my old man told me not to do something i love because then it will become work. so i guess youve just gotta suck it up and keep goin. hell your almost done
thats the worst part i have senioritis i have microsoft word open right now trying to find stuff philosophical about music cause thats another passion of mine but i have 1 paragraph out of what is supposed to be 5-7 pages im afraid its not going to be on topic enough and i will guarantee that i will fail the class if i dont get a descent grade on this paper
ive got seniorittis and im a freshman lol. just think of it this way.
car audio in my mind is probably close to the most expensive hobby a person can have. unless you have a good job making alot of money you wont get anywhere.
and if your doin a philosophical paper you can do somethin about what my old man said. "my old man told me not to do something i love because then it will become work."
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im the same way. i hate school lol. but im trying to get an EE degree and i hate math.
but my old man told me not to do something i love because then it will become work. so i guess youve just gotta suck it up and keep goin. hell your almost done
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that crecendo should do rated power with your electrical. and i know the new ones have the same boards as the DC amps so they're pretty strong. i havent personally had any experience with the older BC2000 but if its built anything like the new ones they should handle .5 ohm on each pair. which could be just over 1000 to each sub.
you have a good enough electrical so i think that would be your best bet IMO
edit: i didnt realize they were D4's but at 1ohm it should still put out the same or close to the same as those 4 audiopipes.
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i used screws in my box. held up just fine. basically the nails and screws just tighten the wood together while the glue actually does the work.
i did a screw about every 2 inches.
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i dont understand. it seems like this guy isnt reading anything we say.
am i the only one who feels this way?
we tell him a little flickering is okay. but solid red is bad. why does it matter how long its solid red. its still clipping the shit out of the signal.
just set your shit with an oscope and only mess with the bass boost if the red light is solid. otherwise your fine. your making this way more difficult than it has to be
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type r's can handle alot of power. the weakest part is the spider.
mine didnt like low notes hahaha tore it right apart. hit a 28hz and it was like boom boom boom...................me: wtf?
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The light flickering is okay. When it's solid red for extended periods of times is when you have trouble.
I love mine and users such as Techforce and Sanitarium have clamped more than 2200 wRMS.
my setup is a daily driver sql and i always have my bass going full force for extended amounts of time. thats why im worried
buy more batts/alt that way you give more clean power.
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Hey, my question is will this amp put out 2200+ watts (Good Electrical) without ANY lights blinking or turning on on the clipping light?
I think this is a great feature but i think IMO the light would annoy me. IMO (but thats why im asking u guys) i could see that I wouldnt be able to turn it all the way up on 2200+ watts without it clippiing.
if this statement is wrong then would turning the knob up past the clipping light make the subs more loud?
The amp isnt what makes your lights dim. the better your electrical the better it will be able to handle the extra load. the amp will pull power regardless.
and about the light. i know the bass knob light on the AQ is really fuckin bright. i would just get some blue nail polish and dab it on the bulb. that should dim it a little bit.
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could have rust from where it leaked previously. then the water could seep around the glue and tar then into your car. i would check for rust.
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im pretty sure the amp will handle .5 ohm just fine if the electrical is done right.
but my questions are does this void the warranty and how much power do people normally see from these?
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I dont know weather to get the...
AQ2200D (Underated)
or
BRZ2400.1 (CEA @ 2400 Watts)
This is the only thing getting in my way of wanting the aq, and also could i get true 2200+ watts of pure Unclipped Power on the aq?
Im afraid if i turn it up like 3/4 of the way on the knob it will start clipping and i will feel like i cant get the true 2200 watts outta it and only like 1700 or so
realize that no amp is 100% efficient so with that being said.. AQ line of amps all do rated power plus some but all that depends on your voltage,ohm load things like that. Also the gain knob is not a power button...Again THE GAIN KNOB IS NOT A POWER BUTTON, with that being said the aq is able of giving your the desired 2200 watts of power you desire but you must use an oscope to keep it clean
what do u mean it not a power button..wtf...its a gain knob, when did i say it was a power button...lol
i believe that he is referring to people using the bass boost to control the volume of the subwoofer. IMO
whats the difference between a gain or bass boost remote?
In all honesty i dont fully understand enough to give you a good answer. but from what i can think. is that it is used to adjust to the signal clippage.
such as low notes can cause more clipping than higher notes etc.. soo adjusting the bass boost helps you tweak the power so that your amp will send clean power to your sub.
(this is just a guess) lol i dont know for sure. but ive seen countless times that the bass boost is not a volume knob. i just never really asked why. so i will be following this to see if there is a much more educated answer
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Not my place to say lol.
haha well i figured id ask. im looking into an AQ 2200 and the crecendo 2000. but id like to keep it all DC.
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Depends. Under $400 would be nice. I'm getting a cadance 2500.1 in a trade that I was going to put up for sale. If i don't find something soon ill just buy a dc 2k and run it at .5
how much are the dc 2k's? just ball park i dont need a pm or anything
im going to take a stab in the dark and ask if its over 500$
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I dont know weather to get the...
AQ2200D (Underated)
or
BRZ2400.1 (CEA @ 2400 Watts)
This is the only thing getting in my way of wanting the aq, and also could i get true 2200+ watts of pure Unclipped Power on the aq?
Im afraid if i turn it up like 3/4 of the way on the knob it will start clipping and i will feel like i cant get the true 2200 watts outta it and only like 1700 or so
realize that no amp is 100% efficient so with that being said.. AQ line of amps all do rated power plus some but all that depends on your voltage,ohm load things like that. Also the gain knob is not a power button...Again THE GAIN KNOB IS NOT A POWER BUTTON, with that being said the aq is able of giving your the desired 2200 watts of power you desire but you must use an oscope to keep it clean
what do u mean it not a power button..wtf...its a gain knob, when did i say it was a power button...lol
i believe that he is referring to people using the bass boost to control the volume of the subwoofer. IMO
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the new crecendo's use the same board's ad DC and the sundowns (i think) . they'll do rated as well and are dirt cheap
but the AQ will do over 2200 if your electrical is right.
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imagine that engine in a F350 dually. YEEhaw. about 3000lbs lighter lol
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I like here
And you must not have looked that hard. There's been about 4 of these threads in the last month or so? This site is as good as it gets. Fast as hell on shipping too. Took like 3 days for me.
x2 thats an awesome deal.
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when i saw that i was jaw to the floor looking at that chick. then when the mack came out.. i jizzed in my pants
lol
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thats definitely a user error. if the guy wasnt a dick about the whole thing and came to you saying that his friend did this depending on how expensive the equip is you could maybe do a small discount.
but overall. its still his fault. i guess the way he handles the replacement of the speaker its up to you if you want to cut him a break. but i would also explain to him why you cant just crank the gain or set the xover to +2 so that he can smack his friend for being a dumbass and prevent future issues like this from happening
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maui jim's
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
does anyone own these and had the aviator style
these are the ones im taklin about Glasses
but i needed to get the pads that go over your ears replaced. idk what they're called
does anyone know if they offer replacements?