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D-train-13k

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Posts posted by D-train-13k

  1. Test driving the sound system when you're car shopping can be as key to your long-term satisfaction as checking out the handling. So we thought you'd like to see this list of Top 10 songs for testing car audio quality from General Motors audio engineer Matt Kirsch, who led the sound work on the Chevrolet Cruze.

    GM also posted the tracks as a mix at the iTunes store: If you want it for your own audio test driving, you can buy here for $12 (you gotta have iTunes to download it, of course).

    ALSO ON DRIVE ON: Katy Perry is OK for Volkswagen, but too hot for Sesame Street

    Here are Kirsch's "10 Songs for an Audio Test Drive" and what he says to listen for in each track:

    "Don't Know Why" by Norah Jones. Listen for Norah's voice to sound natural, and centered in front of you.

    "Diamonds and Rust" by Joan Baez. Listen for strong vocals, and for the instruments to be set across a wide sound stage

    "No One" by Alicia Keys. Listen for clarity in Alicia's vocals and spacious background sound.

    "Hotel California" by the Eagles. Listen for the clarity and dynamic range during the opening guitar solo, and of course the powerful drum beat.

    "Boom Boom Pow"by the Black Eyed Peas. Listen for powerful, accurate bass beats, even at full volume.

    "Rock that Body"by the Black Eyed Peas. Listen clear, intelligible lyrics over the powerful, persistent bass beat.

    "Hide and Seek"by Imogen Heap. Listen for the enveloping ambience of the song, building on the openness and dynamic vocals.

    "He Mele No Lilo" by Mark Keali'i Ho'omalu from Lilo and Stitch.Listen for the ambience and staging as the children's chorus is offset by powerful bass.

    "Bird on a Wire" by Johnny Cash. Listen for the clarity in Johnny's distinctive voice, and his guitar to sound natural and free of any coloration.

    "Packt Like Sardines in a Crushd Tin Box"by Radiohead. Listen for the punch from the percussive bass, and the ring of the steel drums.

  2. I had my type r running at 900 rms all the time, they did pretty well would get smelly after hitting lows for a while at a time though

    okay. i was thinking id just keep the gain down on my amp. i just dont want the sub to bottom out and tear itself apart. i was planning on getting a 15 dcsoundlab level 3 and run it at 2 ohms. but my dad suprised me with this. so. i figuered. you cant beat free

    do you know what kind of numbers you were getting? or did you not have it tested.

  3. damn an 07 needing that many parts replaced? :orly3: that sounds kinda weird IMO cuz if every one of them needed replacing i wouldnt think it would work at all andwithout any grinding nois or any other noise at that? id get a second shop to check it out for sure before spendin another min at that shop

    exactly! my mom took it there and i think they're just taking advantage of her. stuff like that doesnt just go bad that quick. and my mom drives her car like a grandma. so its not like they broke from misuse.

  4. Well if the compressor goes, there's usually a build up in it that messes up the piston in the compressor. (Correct me if I'm wrong, we're going over this in my heating and air conditioning class now :P) it's actually easy to replace and could probably do it in your garage if you have a recovery machine, and can get to it. The orfice tube (I'm looking at my book now) has a fine mesh screen in it that protects the inlet and outlet from foreign matter in the lines, and if it gets blocked, the air conditioning won't work right. As for the dryer bottle im gonna assume the section accumulator which stores excess reserver liquid in the lines, with might also have foreign matter in it too. My best guess would be to have a shop do it, for this part over just the compressor. Probably get quotes from independent shops before you take it to a dealership :drinks:

    yeah i knew a shop would definitely have to be considered. i just dont want my mom to be taken advantage of cause she doesnt know anything about it.

  5. hey guys. im pretty good with working on cars and how everything works. but one thing i never got into was the air conditioning units. my moms 2007 ford freestyle will only blow cold air when shes driving. so i figured recharging the compressor would do the trick but some guy told me that there are other issues that ive gotta look at before i just went and started chargin it. So i wasnt gonna work on something i had no idea of how to work.

    anyways. mom took it to ford and they said its gonna cost 1500 dollars.

    ive got the work order and it is as follows.

    replace compressor and orifice tube- 910.00

    replace dryer bottle-572.50

    replace air filter element-49.75

    just need some extra opinions on this.

    i know that dealerships will try to replace everything they can to make money. and some are too lazy to actually look at the part before they want to replace it.

    i just find it unlikely that the entire system needs to be replaced.

  6. where would i buy the strut mounts for a ford f150 4wd

    i have a 2000 and i want to convert it to a 4wd.

    its my grandfathers and i want to keep the original truck. so i know its going to be a pain in the ass

    if anyone can help me decide if it would be easier to keep it independent suspension or just go to a junkyard and take a couple rigid axles off a bronco and go leaves on the front.

    thanks guys.

  7. 4 cubes for a set of low to mid range 12's seems really excessive.

    here's plans for 3 cubes @ 30 hz thats worked well for me for a variety of 12's.

    http://www.edesignaudio.com/logos/12_dual_vented.JPG

    (yes it's from eD, and yes i've checked the measurements, it checks out)

    alright. thanks. is there anything else id have to do ? cause im not taking the back seats out so there isnt really anything to load off of.

    youll have to humor me if i sound retarded with some of the questions i ask. cause i think enclosures are the more complicated section of soundsystems..

  8. ive got a 2000 ford f150 xlt.

    i need to make a new box to fit my cabin because the old box i had in my car was in the trunk.

    its a 4cube with two kenwood w3011's (12's) nothin special. but the box is way too big for my truck. so it sounds like my subs arnt even hitting. i have a sheet of plywood under the subs to give them something to load off of.

    but does anyone have any ideas on a good enclosure size that will make the subs sound comparable to what they used to be.

    if any questions you need to help me figure this out. lemme know. im not particularly familiar with enclosures. so any advice would be appreciated.

    i looked at the specs for the sub itself and it says a 2 cube ported box is best. and when i made the old one for my car it sounded great. its aggrivating hearing it now compared to the way it used to be.

    lol im sure yall would feel the same way if you had to change everything.

    thanks guys

  9. yeah man well good luck. personally ive never built any bandpass system. but from what ive seen the two subs are facing each other not litterally on top of one another but facing at angles. ^ <<kind like that<<< lol its hard to explain,the ports were on the back ends facing (in reference to that arrow up there) they would be down.

    sorry if thats difficult to understand lol i kinda had to improvise. if i had a pic id put that on there. but i dont.

    still good luck :)

  10. dang... that sucks. maybe if i fold the seats up i could do it.

    do the ports and subs fire down?

    i really dont feel like making a new box lol.

    and any ideas how i would elevate it? i cant drill any holes in the truck. so mounting is gonna be difficult.

    i swear my step dad makes this thing almost impossible

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