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D-train-13k

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Posts posted by D-train-13k

  1. it will probably fall off pretty bad.

    why ?

    the output on a sealed box will not be enough to actually feel lows. they will play but it probably wont respond well under 30 hz very well.

    just my opinion and experience.

    ito understand is ... the problem is ... the same space in my ducted plays very strong and low, however'm 160L in ported...

    my video :

    i dont understand what youre trying to say.

  2. Battery can be a smaller one if you want. I would get a xp3000 for the back and be done with it. As to hooking them up, It's as easy as connecting the positive to positive and negative to negative ( or a nice chassis ground in the back). Just make sure you fuse within 18" of front batt and 18" before the rear battery and you're good to go.

    Question about that. To get all technical, if you connect the smaller one to the bigger one, what happens with the current? Like if you crank it to start the car, does the power come from the bigger one, or both? And the alternator charges which? I get what you mean about how to wire them, just wondering about the technical aspect of it.

    running batteries in parallel such as how everyone does on here mean that the total amperage of each battery will be put together thus creating in a sense a much larger battery with more capacity. voltage will still stay the same on this kind of a circuit. if you connect the alternator to the front battery it will charge both batteries. in a sense it will push amperage through the first battery then the second and so on and so forth

  3. I have two bc2ks strapped at 1ohm. One of them is over a year old. Wired at .5 ohm for a while. They're great amps. Voltage control is good. Them thing go into protect exactly at 15 volts no worries there. They handle .5 all day. Even beating the piss outta them. They don't get abnormally hot.

    Overall for the money these are some of the best amps I've seen in action. I clamped the one by itself at .5 ohm and rise went to 1ohm in my box and was doing 2150 give or take. So they're pretty good amps

  4. Holy shit people.

    D-train, lets make this easy. What speakers are you trying to cross?

    lol ive got 3 sets of midbass drivers going in on each door. two sets of mp8's from crescendo and a set of dayton 6's

    and two sets of super tweeters. one set from crescendo that have the 5.5khz inline bass blocker

    and then the aq super tweeters.

    i just need more power and was going to look into two 200.2 but i saw the xover was the same as the 120.4 so i just asked about the xover. haha

  5. http://www.audioque....1204_p_150.html

    saying it only goes up to 5khz?

    Specifications Model AQ120.4 Dimensions 15.75" x 9" Input Sensitivity 8V~0.2V Low Pass Filter 50Hz ~ 5kHz High Pass Filter 20Hz ~ 5kHz Crossover HPF/FULL/LP-BP Remote Gain Control Included Clipping Display Led Yes Signal to Noise Ratio 105dB Damping Factor 200 < Bass Boost @45Hz 0~18dB External Fuse Rating 40A x 2 pcs 4 ohm power @ 14V 120Wx4 2 ohm power @ 14V 170Wx4 4 ohm mono power @ 14V 340Wx2 Power and Ground Inputs 4ga

  6. damn, seems to me the way to go... add another mid, and go for man......let me know when you make you decision, and how it turns out bud....

    Just trying to decide if the impedance will work. My 4 chan is stable at 2 ohmx4 but if the mids are not reading but 6 ohm a piece my 4 chan probly won't like it

    Still would read 2 ohm for 3 drivers but idk

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