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pthrift

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Posts posted by pthrift

  2. Opinion on which subs to run

    in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!

    Posted

    I'm working with a Tahoe, but want to keep my box on the smaller side to keep the vehicle very functional. My original thought was 4-8's sealed downfiring, but today I ran across a deal on a DD Audio m4a that I couldn't pass up, and now have substantially more power on tap.

    Amp is rated at 5800@12v, [email protected]. I'll probably operate it in the 12.5-13v range with my current electrical.

    So now maybe 3 or 4-10's sealed is my new plan. I've ran the XL's back in 2010 and loved them, but trying to stick with small box, I was leaning towards level 3's or level 4's. Will either option hold up well with 1500watts ea going to them in a smallish box? Or am I better off with say 2 xl drivers instead ?

  5. Suggestions on entry level system

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    Alright, I'll definitely look into building my own box. Gotta figure out the whole tuning and port thing though.

    Depending on the subs you buy, look in the installation manual. It will give a simple ported or sealed box design, usually with a round port, simple enough to make, and it's the ideal tune/volume for the sub, as recommended by the manufacturer. Another option is a pre fabricated box, which everyone on here will bitch about, so don't go with a best buy one for instance, but check around on the internet, there are a lot of boxes available, just make sure you choose a decent one, like one recommended by the sub manufacturer. Everyone is so against pre fab boxes but the truth is if your completely new to this, you'll probably be better off with a professionally made box.

    There's a lot of differences between a pro-SHOP built box and a prefab box.....if you can find a local shop that builds a quality box; they can do it too... But it's gonna cost a premium price....

  8. Suggestions on entry level system

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    Really the only thing I am curious about right now is the power rating I see when looking at subs. For example, Rockford Fosgate has power ratings written like: "600w RMS 1200w MAX" Is that "MAX" the point where the sub will blow or what? I'm completely ignorant in that department.

    no; it will not "blow up" at 1201 watts. but, being as you are a self-proclaimed noob; i'd stick to the lower end of the power range, to keep you safe from over-driving whatever speaker you are running. just my opinion. and if you think you can; build your own box.

  9. hiding crossover question for the ballers on here

    in Mid's and highs

    Posted · Edited by pthrift

    yea; i'm with nate. I wouldn't put the crossover in the door....i'd put them somewhere else and just run wire to the speaker in thru the door jamb.

    in my tahoe; I bought a couple 4 channel amps and a RF 360.2 so I don't use crossovers anymore....

    EDIT: crap-. reading pwns me. I didn't see that you didn't want to mount them in the truck, so that also rules out my idea of going active instead of passive crossovers....

    I suspect you'll end up dropping 8 wires in the door. but that's just me.

  14. Local members w/table or panel saw?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted · Edited by pthrift

    i just came home from lowes like a half hour ago..I got them to take 4 sheets and make like 18 cuts... first two cuts on every sheet was free, each cut after was only a quarter...so it cost me like $2.50 to get it done...

    edit: crap. reading pwns me. I didn't see that you don't trust your home depot...

    I took a tape measure in; and decided before they started that if the messed up a cut I wasn't going to pay for it...I just measured every cut as they came off....they all came off right...

  17. port bracing help

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    With glassing, he means use fiberglass+resin, because resin itself doesn't adds a lot of strenght.

    Resin is brittle.

    I would recommend using fiberglass to reinforce the box+port.

    Dowel rods are a good way to brace a port.

    i thought resin was too brittle; but I have never worked with it very much other than to make a few small panels.

    dowel rods or all thread will probably be what I end up using. I already planned on putting 3-6 pieces of all thread thru the box, so I may just run one piece top to bottom and make sure it crosses paths with the port.

  22. port bracing help

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    so i've searched some and am not finding much help at all...I'm building a box for 4-18's... and i'm worried about my port flexing and whatnot. I had this problem on my last box (4-15's; common port wall with outside of box)

    anyway.

    port is going to run along the bottom of the box; it'll be a 46x13.5" piece of MDF. The entire outside of the box is going to be double layer, should I just go ahead and double layer the port as well? is there a better way? On that 4-15 box I had; we would up putting a 2x4 in the center of the port and screwing it in, which worked, but it changed tuning and I thought it made a lot of noise.

    any help is appreciated--

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