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pthrift

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  1. I'm working with a Tahoe, but want to keep my box on the smaller side to keep the vehicle very functional. My original thought was 4-8's sealed downfiring, but today I ran across a deal on a DD Audio m4a that I couldn't pass up, and now have substantially more power on tap. Amp is rated at [email protected], [email protected] I'll probably operate it in the 12.5-13v range with my current electrical. So now maybe 3 or 4-10's sealed is my new plan. I've ran the XL's back in 2010 and loved them, but trying to stick with small box, I was leaning towards level 3's or level 4's. Will either option hold up well with 1500watts ea going to them in a smallish box? Or am I better off with say 2 xl drivers instead ?
  2. i need an o scope to set these 4-2500's.....

  3. 150 @ 35hz? shits weak. lol; i'm kidding. nice numbers. btw: i think i have the same computer as the one you used for the TL. it's a dell xps 1210, right?
  4. Depending on the subs you buy, look in the installation manual. It will give a simple ported or sealed box design, usually with a round port, simple enough to make, and it's the ideal tune/volume for the sub, as recommended by the manufacturer. Another option is a pre fabricated box, which everyone on here will bitch about, so don't go with a best buy one for instance, but check around on the internet, there are a lot of boxes available, just make sure you choose a decent one, like one recommended by the sub manufacturer. Everyone is so against pre fab boxes but the truth is if your completely new to this, you'll probably be better off with a professionally made box. There's a lot of differences between a pro-SHOP built box and a prefab box.....if you can find a local shop that builds a quality box; they can do it too... But it's gonna cost a premium price....
  5. Does it have mbus or ai-net on the back? If so; they make a cable that is either mbus or ai net to RCA; which you can plug an 1/8" to RCA into; and bam! You got aux
  6. why not put the alpine in the four wheeler? it's not going to be worth much...its kind of an old deck
  7. no; it will not "blow up" at 1201 watts. but, being as you are a self-proclaimed noob; i'd stick to the lower end of the power range, to keep you safe from over-driving whatever speaker you are running. just my opinion. and if you think you can; build your own box.
  8. yea; i'm with nate. I wouldn't put the crossover in the door....i'd put them somewhere else and just run wire to the speaker in thru the door jamb. in my tahoe; I bought a couple 4 channel amps and a RF 360.2 so I don't use crossovers anymore.... EDIT: crap-. reading pwns me. I didn't see that you didn't want to mount them in the truck, so that also rules out my idea of going active instead of passive crossovers.... I suspect you'll end up dropping 8 wires in the door. but that's just me.
  9. Nice box... Saw you had a DC beauty panel... Where's it go? I dont see it in the truck...
  10. @moto211:: thanks; but I dont wanna give up that much airspace if I can help it.
  11. How cheap was the amp? Why not just buy a 2nd one if you can't return it ?
  12. i just came home from lowes like a half hour ago..I got them to take 4 sheets and make like 18 cuts... first two cuts on every sheet was free, each cut after was only a quarter...so it cost me like $2.50 to get it done... edit: crap. reading pwns me. I didn't see that you don't trust your home depot... I took a tape measure in; and decided before they started that if the messed up a cut I wasn't going to pay for it...I just measured every cut as they came off....they all came off right...
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