shawnschuldt

Well it seems like the belt is just a little too small now so it isnt getting the tension it needs i can revv my car up and have the lights dimm

yea i worn belt could do it i know that but my belt is like new gatorback not a cheap belt im just curious if a 10% overdrive pulley on just the alt is enough to make the belt too big and doesnt give the tensioner anything to tension

ok so i checked a few things out and yesterday everything seem okay the voltage was steady at 14.5 and with the music up the most i seen a drop to was 13. but today is a different issue i didnt have it up half way and i could see considerable dimming from all lights, is it possible that the belt would only slip during a load on the alt? i drove in 2nd with the rpms at about 2000 and the fluctuation im getting is huge, i only have a 2600 watt hifonics brutus and a 270 mechman alt. im kinda lost

i have yet to grab the dmm im inside trying to warm up, but big 3 has been done with all 0 guage. no i was driving when this was happening i also seen some flucuating rpms, and could physically feel it drag a little bit. could it possibly be a belt slipping under load?, im hoping it isnt beacuse i already have a goodyear gatorback on it edit:Yes its regulated by the ecu, it kinda acts sluggish like its slow on producing the amps that being requested

ok ive had my system in my grand prix for a couple days before my mechman alternator came in. i put that in today and now when i turn the amp up to 3/4 on the bass knob the amp shuts off when this never happened before with the original alt, what could be causing this?

I know i said the same thing the only difference there is, is the new has a mono sub out instead of a stereo out, dont get me wrong its got more of a quick punch than it had its just dont seem to be as good and i didnt know if the outputs on the deck could have an effect or how im really supposed to hook it up. Right now i have a line splitter behind my deck so i can hook my one line out into my 2 lines going into my amp

My Box i ported tuned to about 35Hz and after sub displacement its around 6 cubes about the biggest to fit in my car and still be removable. the amp setting i couldnt tell u atm as someone else is using my car today. my issue is more the difference in sound between my old deck that had a L and R sub out to my new with only just 1 sub out, is there any adjusting i need to do since it now sees mono instead of stereo?

So i have a problem with my current setup. i currently have 2 alpine type r 15's with a 2600 watt hifonics brutus amp. Well my last head unit was a full color sony and the bass hit pretty good except the low notes were just powerfull. Now i recently switched to a touchscreen JVC the only issue i have with that is now there is only one line out for subs so i used a splitter so both the left and right are hooked up. Well to put it this way it has alot more punch but the lows arent as good i can almost hear more of my truck rattle than i can of bass and thats while im inside the car. So i need some advice is there another way to hook up this amp, or do i need to adjust it or what im not sure what to do to bring back the notes. If it matters the new head unit is a JVC KD-AVX77 El Kameleon

i was wondering if anyone had more info on it, and if a labyrinth port is better than a slot port or just a regular rectangular vent

yea i would make u an offer but im going with like 3 15's in my car i was just trying to decide between some type r's or the t3, yea im looking for a daily driver with some demo oppertunity

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with their subs or owned them, id like to get opinions im looking at the tss series