STEvil
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Posts posted by STEvil
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quite possibly dead unfortunately then
what has more volts than the hu?
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If your subs quit when you were messing with your headunit then that is part of the problem.
On the headunit the output voltage signal to the amps (through the RCA's) is usually controlled by the subwoofer level. The level can be adjusted from +6 to -24. You will likely want to have this set between 0 and +3, just off the top of my head. I'd be careful if it suddenly starts working though because of how "professional" the install seems to be..
You probably either have that set incorrectly or have enabled a low pass filter or low frequency cutoff on the subwoofer output, unless the subs really are dead..
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Finally, someone other than adire aiming for 40+..
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Stevil I've been waiting 13 months for results from these lol. I never heard these in his system just 22-27-32 hz burps at half volume which was doing shirt tricks violently. Will needs to get in here and comment. I couldn't make it to the show myself or I would have posted Vid immediately. The xmax is 28mm one way but actual stroke side view is impressive. Definitely larger spiders needed
Larger spiders and a surround delete (yes, I said delete) ; )
Shoot for 40mm lol
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was wondering when i'd see the physical outcome of this
What are the excursion capabilities going to be and what are prices looking to be?
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The quoted response from Db-r seems logical. Obviously if someone was mis using any equiptment and it fails repeatedly, he can't keep fixing it for free.
However...in my situation, my amp had a intermitent (sp?) turn-on or power-up problem. It had this problem before I had access to a dd-1, after it was dd-1'd, and before I sent it to db-r. $150 later, I was told there was something loose on the board and he soldered some wires underneath it. He also changed some caps that are known to fail but they hadn't yet. .Before I got the amp back from him is when I was told not to use the dd-1 on it or it would void his warranty.
The amp came back doing the same thing it did when I sent it in. Granted, the problem is intermitent, and the amp will turn on fine and operate fine, sometimes. So I understand the possibility of it not acting up when he had it. When I offered to send it back, and even pay the bench fee again, he said I'd be better off to just sell it. I've put it in other vehicles, its been hooked up to a battery on my kitchen table, and it does it regardless of the "install".
The "buzzing" sound some class d amps make internally when they see clipping (thanks Tony), is the same sound mine makes at turn-on. At the same time sending 110-120 v to the outputs. Even with the rca's unhooked. Power, ground, remote only.
Sorry for the novel, but my issue has nothing to do with gains, clipping, voltage, volume, impedence, the grass being green or the sky being blue, or a dd-1. I know it, he knows it. "pass the buck" comes to mind and I feel taken...
You are being taken.
Get your money back and forward all viable information to Jacob ("sundownz" on the forum here), thats plain dirty.
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I notice they're blaming the protect circuit on the amp.
Does that mean the protect circuit was built poorly?
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In that case, yes, you can make anything work. Some things just dont work as well as others for certain applications (or enclosure styles).
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I'm sorry that I'm very late to this game, however, the four FI 15", two big black boxes and all that = a huge "WOW" factor to me. I wonder can all subwoofers (kicker, sundown, etc.) act as home-theater speakers? I've always wondered about that.
they are not being used as mid range.. they are being used as sub woofers.
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What do you think would be more fun, 2x EMF 15's or 4x Zv4 10/12's?
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Use an o-scope
Check your jumper leads, its not uncommon that they can have poor connections internally (not where the alligator end grabs but where the alligator end is crimped inside the plastic sheathing).
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I want a hero3 black.. just have my crappy hero2 to suffer with until later I guess..
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How would the DD-1 hurt the protect circuit in an amp?
it wont. Not any more then scoping your amp would.
Honestly, to NOT believe in the DD-1 is to not believe in an O-scope. Our product does what a scope is supposed to do, but does it faster and more accurately. Regardless, I wouldn't mess with any shop or installer that doesn't use an O-scope in the very minimum.
Also it does it simply and cheaper than the average scope, cant beat that
btw Steve sorry if it seemed my last post was knocking on you, not my intention.
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i was on a different forum, looking around and someone posted about the dd-1. really a lot of negetive things said about it..here is one message post about it...this does not make sense to me tho, seems he dont know what he is talking about..i can post more info if you want..
You can set up gains with the amp unloaded - results may vary, it's generally ok on lower powered amps where the limitation is the voltage rail inside the amp. Probably not the best idea for high powered setups where voltage droop is a real issue. In all of Steve Meades videos he sets up amps unloaded with a DD1. I don't really agree with this since his target market is people with ground pounders... He also uses a -10dB tone (on recommendation from Rockford Fosgate) to set the gains on sub amps which is completely wrong and will cause up to 10dB of clipping (A LOT) when the headunit is at full volume. The bass lines in modern recordings are around -1dB peak, so a 0dB tone should be used to set sub amp gains. For mids that are highpassed above 100Hz you can push it out to about -10dB, and -15 or -20dB for tweeters. Clipping isn't very audible in subs, so he probably doesn't realise what he is doing (that and he is big headed and won't accept that his methodology is wrong). I always get the feeling when watching SMD videos that he doesn't really understand the science behind what is going on.
the guy's an ass, but I support his comment about setting amps loaded and the tone to use..
Steve doesnt like setting amps loaded. Sure it works.. like setting a gain with a DMM, but honesty its not accurate.
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Too bad you had to move to the smaller spider.. all that wasted excursion capability...
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I want 4 of these so bad.....
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I found another copy I think.
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Video taken down, anyone got a link to another copy of it?
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To a point. Some can take it, some cant.
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allthread > dowels.
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You mean a large turbo with a small motor, but no that analogy doesnt work if you understand it really.
The components are meant to work at a certain voltage (12-18 as mentioned before) and if used at that voltage they will consume a known amount of current (amperage) to produce a known amount of output power. With current regulated amplifier technology this is controlled by cycling the mosfets on and off to create a steady amount of power for the second half of the amplfier. Less voltage means the controller of the mosfets cycles the "on" time longer which means the mosfets build up more heat. Heat creates resistance which means the fet controller must cycle the fets longer again which can create further voltage drop.. which means longer duty cycles...
This is known as a "thermal cascade" and as you can see it is not the voltage that is the actual death culprit but just a factor that drives the issue.
High voltage can kill an amplifier by creating what is known as electron migration. Basically arc (stick) welding inside the electrical components. Computer processors are an example of something that is very suceptible to this - hence why overclocking with increased voltage has the possibility to degrade or destroy processors. Pentium 4's were great examples of this
Here is some good info. As for processors, extra voltage is OK since you have far more diverse and powerful cooling options than you do with an amp.
Depends on the process used for the processor. Some are high leakage, some are low, and cooling doesnt change electromigration until you get near to the point of superconductivity of the silicon used to make the CPU.. if you can get there without hitting a "cold bug" point first.
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Max out your dimensions (~3ft each), tune to 30-33.
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You mean a large turbo with a small motor, but no that analogy doesnt work if you understand it really.
The components are meant to work at a certain voltage (12-18 as mentioned before) and if used at that voltage they will consume a known amount of current (amperage) to produce a known amount of output power. With current regulated amplifier technology this is controlled by cycling the mosfets on and off to create a steady amount of power for the second half of the amplfier. Less voltage means the controller of the mosfets cycles the "on" time longer which means the mosfets build up more heat. Heat creates resistance which means the fet controller must cycle the fets longer again which can create further voltage drop.. which means longer duty cycles...
This is known as a "thermal cascade" and as you can see it is not the voltage that is the actual death culprit but just a factor that drives the issue.
High voltage can kill an amplifier by creating what is known as electron migration. Basically arc (stick) welding inside the electrical components. Computer processors are an example of something that is very suceptible to this - hence why overclocking with increased voltage has the possibility to degrade or destroy processors. Pentium 4's were great examples of this
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"just picking" is my guess
edit - and given his responses my hedge on the hard clip seems pretty close.
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Are my subs damaged
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
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more volts doesnt help things, you can fry the input side of the amp or cause it to oscillate.