Jump to content

STEvil

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2279

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by STEvil

  5. just doesnt make sense

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    is that blob before or after the fix....?

    after, we added a little too much, but tried to fill the cold solder that was there.

    Did you make sure it bonded to the board?

    As to thermal interface material, you can get it dirt cheap. Just use wheel bearing grease ; ) Oh, and for the record, more is not better. If you've got a poor surface to surface connection and no pressure then adding TIM between does nothing to help. Fix the problem otherwise the TIM is just a thermal insulator.

  8. Who can get me a recone for this sub?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by STEvil

    Do you think before you post... take a woofer apart, there is nothing to use to trace, unless you make the gap over a inch wide.........................

    And how are you going to put a towel in a gap that is like 1/8inch wide...

    I had these woofers apart, I wouldnt touch them, since to make them work is with some cheap parts. not worth the hassle trying to make them better, or spend that kinda money on a cheaper sub, so I told the guy where to go to get it done properly, not rigged...

    Trying to hack the top plate out and not even have it even is going to be a huge lose in BL unless you can keep it dead nuts even all the way around, which you cant do free hand..

    And finding a router bit metal or not is not happening.. Hell the smallest wood router bit shanks are 1/4 inch shanks, and most cnc bits are at miniumum 1/2 inch shank

    All your trying to do is over rigging methods...

    And Im sure everyone has a lathe in their garage to go make the gap bigger...............

    8-20mm sizing: http://www.tradett.com/products/u38987p308676/cnc-router-bits.html

    Took me 2 minutes checking parts suppliers to find those. As to guide you use the top plate as the guide, not the magnets. Yes you would need a different bit than those ones for the first cuts.

    Do you think it would be hard to put a towel through a 1/8" gap? I mean, really?

    As to a lathe in the garage, I have access to 6 (and a milling machine too), though I admit they are technically not in "my" garage as I dont have one in town.

    edit

    Totally forgot to address the BL loss, my bad. Pole piece can have a pipe sheath slid over it to make the gap tighter again, though it may not really be needed depending on what coil you put into the gap.

  9. Kicker amp question

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    No, he said you need a dual 1 ohm (also a dual 4 ohm would work) sub.

    Wiring two 1 ohm coils in series produces a 2 ohm load. The amps when strapped will see the 2 ohm load as 1 ohm each. Just like old 2-channel amplifiers when running bridged mode.

  10. Who can get me a recone for this sub?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Two other options

    1: Steel router bit

    2: Big-ass lathe and just clamp the motor in the jaws.

    Careful about heat when cutting in either case...

    Neither work...

    What happens when you take magnitized metal, and then start cutting it. Where are those shavings going to go????

    Inside the motor... You will never get them out without taking apart the woofer.. They will scratch and damage every coil you put in it.

    Besides the fact your not fiting a router bit of anysorts in a gap that is smaller then 1/4inch let alone how will you end up keeping it circular. You would need to use a trace bit, and you run into the the problem of the ferrite magnet slugs are no where near the same internal diameter of the top plat gap.

    The magnets slugs usually have 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch larger internal diamater then the top plate gap.

    The woofers magnet force comes from the top plate. This is where all the ferrite slugs are focusing the magnetic force, that thin little top plate, not the entire height of the motor.

    Put a towel in the motor when you lathe it.

    Trace bits are to keep things even, hence it would stay circular as long as you handle them correctly. Yes it would be hard to find a bit to fit the gap. Adjust the bit in the router to use the upper non-cutting surface as the trace guide when finishing the cut at the underside of the top plate. No, it wouldnt be perfect and yes it would be messy, but it is doable.

    The lathe is the best option without taking the motor apart.

  11. Who can get me a recone for this sub?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    well shit. do i have to take it apart to machine it? because that is gonna be more trouble than this thing is worth lol

    Yes, you do!

    You have to demagnetize it, or it be a pita to take it apart, then machine the top plate opening bigger, then put it together, magnetize it, then build it up.

    bumpinbuick did it to these motors on CACO. Im sure he has pics.

    Two other options

    1: Steel router bit

    2: Big-ass lathe and just clamp the motor in the jaws.

    Careful about heat when cutting in either case...

  23. Thoughts about smaller cone but bigger motor vs bigger cone and smaller motor

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    more cone means less excursion to for the same output and also gives the ability to go lower frequency wise before running out of excursion, assuming each uses a similar coil/motor setup that can attain the same excursion levels. 15mm xmax 15" vs 25mm xmax 12" would be a toss-up for example.

    Motor all depends on the design of the motor and the coil. Could be a tight gap or a loose gap, not to mention depth, back-plate design, pole design (solid vs ported), and top plate design..

    Tons of things to consider.

×
×
  • Create New...