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JBurt09

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Posts posted by JBurt09

  2. Loudest behind seat setup

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    old body style 07? (classic)????

    if its new body, the box goes under the seat

    if it's old body a btl will never fit.

    you can get 2.2 before if built right.

    I usually do 2 1008's vented back there.

    ive seen a 136 @ 39hz before on 1000w

    I was hoping you or Mike Hughes would pitch in on this. It's the old body style, box behind the seat. The 1008s are what I have on the way. Steve and I went over a number of different designs for back there, but he was really stressing using aero-ports.I usually just do a slot port back there, but what do you recommend?Why kind of design or setup?

    Also Steve said if put in the right box and tuned right you can give those 500 RMS each all day long, so I plan on running a solid 1000 watts RMS to them.

  3. Loudest behind seat setup

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    DD 1510s would be badass.... I got 2 D4s for sale. If you're interested in buying used, shoot me a PM.

    Went ahead and pulled the trigger on (2) DD Dual 4 ohm Soft Suspension 1008b's.After talking with Steve for a while, this is what would work best with the space I had.They will be shipping out Friday and I should receive them the next Thursday or Friday.Now I'm just looking for an amp to push them.Steve was talking about some of the DD amps, but I wasn't seeing an adjustable subsonic filter on it, which I would need since the box is going to be ported.Right now I've been looking at the Stetsom Digital V 1K5 H 1 Ohm, the Sundown SAZ-1000D, or a Digital Designs if I can find one with a nice subsonic filter on it.From looking at the site, I haven't seen one in the 1000 watt RMS at 1 ohm range though.I'm open to suggestions ;)

    I gotta give a shout out to everyone at DD.They have always gone the extra mile with me in system design and to make sure I am getting exactly what I need for my wants and my applications.Steve has tons of knowledge and is a great guy to work with as far as getting you all hooked up.

  4. Loudest behind seat setup

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    4 10's... rank and loud.

    If you want to try and do something interesting you could remove the seats and fiberglass under them for additional box volume... and/or a port. Could do 12's with that lol ;)

    Man now you've got me interested in doing something like this.. but I love my extended cab!! :(

    I've thought about that before, to get extra airspace, but I don't think he is wanting something that will need that much fabrication or work.Just something on the more simple side behind the seat is what he is looking for.

    The BTL is a very good sudgestion

    either that or a NICE high powered 10" like a DC LVL 5 or even two SA-8s

    but definately BTL or BL would be my first choice

    Ha when you find a way to mount a BTL or LVL 5 in 5.75 inches of mounting depth, you hit me up.Haha that's my main limiting factor.

    blow thru FTW. dont be scares to butcher your shit up. jacks truck was insane. super low.

    If it were mine I'd be all for it.But it's not ha.Nice Tahoe SS in your avatar by the way.Haven't seen one of those in a WHILE.

  11. JBurt09's videos from SBN 2010

    in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic

    Posted

    I have noticed that there weren't quite as many videos thrown up on the forum from SBN as I would have expected so I decided I'd make my own thread with the videos that I got.I'll be updating this topic as I get more videos uploaded, and if anyone else would like to throw up there videos on here I don't mind and I'll change the topic title to just SBN 2010 Videos or something.Anyways, on to what ya'll wanted to see:

  13. Loudest behind seat setup

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted · Edited by JBurt09

    I got a buddy with a 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500.I have been talking with Steve over at Digital Designs and we have been talking about doing (2) 1008b or (2) 1010b.

    Digital Designs 1000 Series Specs

    I only have about 2-2.5 cubes to work with and he is wanting the absolute loudest bass on music without cutting into the bed; just keeping it all behind the back seat.Mounting depth is only about 5.75 inches MAX.I was curious about a few other options though.I'm not trying to start a giant this versus that thread, just looking for some experienced input from some people with some products I haven't used before.

    I was curious about doing the 2 DD 8s or 10s OR:

    (2) SoundSplinter RL-i8s Soundspliter RL-i8 Specs

    (2) Sundown SA-8s Sundown SA-8 Specs

    (4) BM MKIII 12s BM MKIII T/S Parameters

    So there are about 4 different setups I'm looking at.Nothing has built or chosen as far as equipment goes.That will be picked accordingly to the final setup that is chosen.Again, I'm looking for the loudest, cleanest setup on music, mostly rap and hip-hop.With that being said, let the feedback rip :)

  16. which oscope??

    in TOOLS and TESTING Devices

    Posted

    tpi 440 or Velleman HPS10SE??

    I have been reading through the Velleman thread and it's been pulling me off the TPI and I was going to post something in there to see if anyone had experience between the two and what they though.I've used the TPI quite a bit and it's a wonderful piece, but it isn't priced anywhere near the Velleman.Anyone got any feedback to this?

  20. Which batteries to go with

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    He write that them have 70 Ah, and the 2400 have 128, than u need 4 for a 100 each + shippin, new Kinetik costs 499 each. But idk

    the other specs form the stinger, i only remember that Nathan from XS says that the stingers r comparable with the XS-batts. I mean

    the crazy hi kinda watts what u can hang per batt. And i dont know what the real marketprice for the Kinetiks in the states is. Think about.

    I don't know where you are seeing $499 for a HC2400 but they are listed on caraudiodeals.com for about $270 and shipping is about $50 depending on where you live.

    That doesn't mean I'm any kind of Kinetik fan, I'm just saying.XS Power is the way to go IMO.Kinetik doesn't even compare to XS.

  24. To fuse, or not to fuse, that is the question

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    never over-fuse the wire capacity. ther is a sticky in electrical section that gives this info

    No I understand that.I was asking if fuses were mainly intended to protect the wire it is connected to or the amp that it delivers power to.For instance, if I have an amp that is only meant to draw 50 amps max and I am running 4 gauge wire that can easily take 150 amps, would you recommend a 50 amp fuse or the 150 amp fuse?That's pretty much my question.

  25. To fuse, or not to fuse, that is the question

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    He probably feels the way you do... that his installs are good enough that the wire from the distro to the amp will NEVER short. Fuse holders are expensive and time consuming.

    If you are confident of this fact, don't worry about fusing them.

    At the same time, voltage drop across a fuse is pretty damn negligible.

    The fuses on the end of the amp are reallllly only there so that they blow if you hook the amp up backwards. I can't see any other reason - most amps will either shit themselves or go into over-current protection before the fuses on the end will blow. I'm yet to EVER pop one, personally.

    Occasionally I have seen a Class A/B amp that has dropped a channel and the power supply section has been strong enough that the fuses popped before the FETs in the power supply did but it's fairly rare.

    It's the client that's paying for it, not me, but if it were mine I would much rather pay for a fuse than to have to pay for a new amp.

    A lot of people that I have seen like to look at the amperage of the fuses in the side of the amp to get a general idea of what kind of current the amp will pull and put out.Is this in any form a reliable way to get a guesstimate or just an old myth?

    And the last thing, for now, is do you agree that fuses/fuse blocks are only used for protecting the wire?I mean sure you don't want to throw a 300 amp ANL fuse on a piece of 10 gauge wire, but I always thought the fuses were mostly for the amps, hence why they make such a wide variety of sizes and ratings.

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