speeddemon0308
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Posts posted by speeddemon0308
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more then likely have a tonne of rise going on.
drop to .5 and watch your voltage when you first get into it.
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I watched the vid again.. OP.. It looks like in some parts the cone looks seperated from the neck.. Doesn't seem to be alot of movement unless your camera just isnt picking it up well.
100% what it is.. watch at about 2:08 and you will see it. lo
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i have used both, i usually find myself using more heat with flux core then i do with mig wire. its much harder to get a flux core weld to look nice. and when your doing body panels you spread the tacks apart. so you could only do so many before you would need to clean the flux off of the steel. think of flux core welding as arc welding.. but with a wire rather then a rod.
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if your forking out money for a welder, do it once ad do it right. spend the money on something good, if you only plan on body work then get a 110v unit.. if yoru going to be doing anything thicker then 1/4| get a 220v/ or if you have a 220v plug i would just get the 220v anyways..
also fluxcore welding seems to burn hotter then mig welding, so it wouldent be the best for doing body work.
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what will be diffrent on the amps.. internals? or cosmetic changes?
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did you turn the key on when you had everything unhooked?
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420
its saying its the 02 past the cat, which shouldent hurt your e-test * as far as i have heard * clear the codes and see if it comes back.. could just be because it was all new.
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it will be 1/o welding cable
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the we have buss bars upfront and in the bed on the batteries, the way we have it wired went as so
3+ runs from front buss bars to the rear, 3 runs OFF the alts ( one from each ) into the rear, a power run off each alt, to the front buss bar. for a total of 6 or so runs of positive into the rear, 4 or 5 ground runs from buss bar to the batts. then engine grounds, and front buss bar grounds to the frame. and then grounded the batts in the rear to the frame also.
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i would... youll get it dropped and then decide you want more, thats usually how it happens
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so you started this thread back in november and you STILL havent slammed it yet?
all personal preffrence.. are the roads rough around there? go over alot of speed bumps? do you mind slowing down over train tracks?
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ok so this is the flip kit im looking at.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DJM-FK1025-6/
what is the stuff in the back for? looks like its a notch, but im not sure..
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i have some bags here i can always install if need be
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you're going to be in front of the rear axle so most of the weight will be carried on the frame for the batteries. you wont have rear end sag like that.
thats what i thought. so i might do the 5/6 drop and let it be so that i have a little room when i put shit in the bed.
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well the biggest thing that will be going in the back will be my 4 wheeler.. Polaris predator. or it will be on a trailer.
but we plan on putting out batts ( G31's ) in the front of the bed and putting them the long way ( the long side if the back goes front to rear with the truck ) and putting it the width of the bed and mabey 2 rows high.
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yeah im completly aware of that. im thinkin a 5/5 or a 5/6 drop, once the batts are in the bed and my 4 wheeler it would be really pushing it.. i dont mind if i need to roll the fenders a littlebit tho.
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ok im getting a 1998 gmc sierra ext cab short box.. i plan to lower it..not to sure what i awnt to do.. im thinkin 5/7 drop to get it done the first time and be done with it...
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get ready for shitty, and rough ride!!! and to go threw balljoints and tie rod ends left and right.
Not completely true if you do it correctly.
Yes, if you do it like all the kids do and crank the bolt all the way in with the new keys it will ride like a donkey.
BUT
If you just allow the key to raise the front and don't crank on the bolt just because there is thread left it wont.
You reach a point where you gain nothing and your ride goes to shit.
My ride is damn close to stock.
Best thing I did after I added keys was to put on some Bilstein 5100's.
usually it rides like shit, putting keys on is basically like cranking them with the stock keys.
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you wont really notice the 1/2 drop so go with the 2/3
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get ready for shitty, and rough ride!!! and to go threw balljoints and tie rod ends left and right.
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shoot my buddy a e-mail or give him a call and tell him Dylan with the " grand slam " sent you!
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its either your PS pump or your rack. had a car that we thought it was the pump.. put in a new pump but it was bad so put in another and it was OK for a little then ti came back.. so we did the rack and it was good after that.
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put the car either on a jack or on something level and have the car in neutral and spin the drive shaft if the car moves then its tranny related.. if you have to go to the trans.. easiest thing is to unhook the battery and let it reset and then try again. if not cheak the speed sensor which would be near the back of the trans. pull it out clean it and try again.. if not check the governor which is under like a round press on cover.. pull that off and see if anything is broken if all looks good throw it back on and try again. if it still doesn't work. way to go you fucked up your buddy's car!!!
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98 silverado problem
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
Posted
everyone must have missed the part about his break pedal going to the floor in the first post... i know he found the problem by why instantly jump to the expensive things ( trans, and rear end ) when he clearly stated his brakes went to the floor with little effort. that easly throws out that it is a problem with the brakes or something around them ( wheel cylinders, bad calipers, stuck brake shoes ect ) or in this case a bad spindle.