Ndnkobra

The way the port is constructed and designed. Length, width and size of the port.

Becareful with funky pups, they'll kill you. And i've never actually seen a slimline series, but i have seen and heard a lvl 4. I would stick with what you're going to buy

Most people are going to suggest KnuWire because of its price and its slightly oversized from a normal 1/0, Shok as well is oversized and has a nice price to it now. Kicker Wire is also along those lines but i've looked around and it seems a bit expensive. Go with Knu or shok for quality and price

Check to see if there's an air leak in the hole that you filled with silicon , and as for the rattling, check it out to see if its the trunk or sub or any other part of the car. Try to hear and feel around where the rattling is coming from and fix it accordingly. If its the sub then thats no good, but check it out and report back

Yes thats very good, its CCA but regardless it'll work great

Looks like a small garden hose chilling on the floor Very thick And EXTREMELY flexible I think if i swung that wire at someone and it hit them in the face, it would leave a bruise. Only problem i have with the wire right now is...Where am i gonna get the wire cutters to cut this bad boy

I dont have any personal experience with Shok wire, because i've never used it. But from other people i heard its very good wire

Yeah, Knu has amazing wire. Their Kflex 0 gauge wire also comes in that sort of transparant black color insulation that you want, and their KLMX comes in a solid jet black.

Is that the only amplifier you're going to be running? 1200 watts isnt too bad, but the first thing i'd do is the big 3 upgrade. Then from there determine whether or not you're still getting a voltage drop, that'll tell you if you need a beefed up alt or battery. Hell, depending on your stock electrical you may not even have to upgrade that much, but i'd still do the big 3 regardless

You can get a decent one from radio shack or any electronics store, i think hardware stores may even carry them too.

Are those single coil or dual? if they are single coil, then yes you can wire them in parallel to get about a load just a bit over 1, so you're safe wiring your amp up to 1 ohm. If they are dual, then you'd have to wire them in series/parallel to get double just over 2.5 ohms. Use the 12volt diagrams to help you, here's a link. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_c...sp?Q=3&I=42

alright good, this might be a stupid question but i cant help but asking, would it matter which terminals i wired in series? like say if took that blue wire on the sub thats upside down thats going from right hand negative to left hand positive, and moved it up to the other terminals put it so its going from right hand positive to left hand negative. Its been on my mind but i dont think it should matter

You sure? According to this you can, but thats why i posted this topic

yeah i think they do as well, i just had to get a replacement stock battery for an 08 accord from the dealership because my battery wouldn't and couldn't stay alive. I don't think its a bad alternator, but i noticed that in the summer the car would start up fine and as soon as it hit up around 20-30 degrees, the battery immediatly failed. i had the car sitting in the parking lot for 3 days though, so that may have been what caused it. But i'd had to jump start that battery 3 times after that day, so i went and got a new stock battery. I've been thinking about getting a yellowtop to replace the current battery under the hood. Any take on how well the yellowtops handle in cold weather?

Hey guys, i just wanted to make a quick topic before i turned in tonight. I've been meaning to put my woofers back for some time now, but i need to make sure, and i mean ABSOLUTLEY make sure that my subs are wired correctly and the way i want them. I have a eD nine.1 amp that is rated 1200W @ 1ohm. So since i have 2 1 ohm subs, i need to wire them to have a 1 ohm load so i have 600 watts going to them each. i looked on the 12volt for a diagram, and i wired it accordingly. I just wanted to post a picture because i dont want to find out i did some faulty wiring, because these things are a bitch to put back in . here's the picture, sorry for the crude drawing. I think i've wired the coils in series, and using that dumb amp diagram i drew that should put the speaker terminals in parallel, unless i have it backwards. Let me know if there are any problems in that wiring and how to correct them, thanks! On a side note, i have one sub upside down just to show you if i wired the coils in series

Thank you sir!

Is this the same scottiej that manages the XS power batteries thread?

Alright, you guys have me convinced on the wire but i'm still wondering, wouldn't pure copper threading still be best for the install? i know with pure copper wire, the price is gonna be much higher. But despite that, would it be better to use 100% copper, or can it be negligible and i can go for the knukonceptz wire

Hey guys, i'm looking for 1/0 gauge wire for a big 3 upgrade. I was researching some wire and it seems that 1/0 is pretty damn expensive. I stumbled across this brand knukonceptz which was the cheapest, and i had to post something to get feedback, because i noticed in their description that their wires are made up of 90% aluminum and 10% copper. Now for an amplfier i wouldn't care, but i'm pretty sure for a big three upgrade i'm looking for least resistance, and that wire is basically all aluminum. I'm not trying to bash the company, but would you guys recommend this wire for a big three upgrade, or should i go off looking for something that has pure copper threading in it. Thanks for any answers! P.S: If anyone can strike me a deal on some 1/0 gauge wire for cheap, that would be great! i know its pretty expensive, but i'm looking for something around 20ft for around $40 :X or 40ft for around $80

Yeah, i'm too worried about getting a better alternator, and would throwing another battery in trunk really help? wouldn't i have to hook that one up to the alternator to keep it charged

08 accord, and i will look into the big 3 upgrade

Hey guys, i was just playing around with my system earlier. For those that don't know, running 2 12" FI Q's on an eD nine.1 amp (600 watts ea). I've been told that i should place them in a larger box and feed them more current, but the thing i just noticed is that my headlights flicker along with any other electrical light source in the car (roof light, trunk light). So my question here is, how do i stop that from happening? Kind of new to the whole car audio thing, and improving this will definitley be one step foward to the system. I was concerned on voltage drop when i saw the headlights flicker, and its never a good sign. Of course, the louder i turn the volume up, the harder the flicker will be. i notice serious problems when i have the deck turned at about 3/4 volume, and i have the amp gain set just under half. So all in all, what are some solutions to solve this problem and should i really feed the subs more than 600 watts each? i'm afraid i might blow them :x, thanks for any help!

Yeah, they are great subs, i was just thinking of everything else besides them aka the stock head unit and stock speakers

Sorry man, i love that amp and i can't part with it! But i was looking on eD earlier and it seems that they reduced the price of their nine.1 amp, certainly cheaper than what i bought mine for. also checked out your vids, those are some mean subs, i'm a bit a jealous

Hey guys, long time since i've actually posted on here. I've recieved my 2 12' FI Q's a few months ago, and i have to say, great subs. Beastly handling, but what i'm about to show you is kind of pathetic. I took my first video of these subs, and i have to say it isn't the best, but it gets the general idea of what i need to work and improve on. First i'd like to say that i'm only 16 and i had minimal help in installing this system. Therefore i didnt have any money to invest in a deck or any half decent equipment , what can you do when you don't have money? So here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaACs2NjaEA Its not really a video to show off, but i'm seeing it as more of a review for a critique. You can already see that there are a couple of hate comments under there.Now if you guys can stick through that and watch that crappy video that i posted, you notice that everything in there is stock and that the plastic paneling is rattling like crazy. Any helpful ideas? I'm more interested in finding out how to get that plastic panel to stop hitting against the back windshield, because thats what creates the shitty noise. I was thinking of trying some sound deadening under the panel, then using some silicon adhesive to seal the panel down. Some others have told me to see if i can some kind of weather stripping in between the panel and glass, but its a tight squeeze. If anyone has any input on how to make this system any better, i'd be glad to hear some responses. Thanks! some of you that may hang around ***, may have already seen this topic!