Ndnkobra

alright thanks for the input guys, I will coat the box a few times with primer. I decided to use spray paint because it goes on flat black and I wasnt sure if i can get paint that will roll on flat black

I was just going to straight spray paint it

Hey guys, quick question. I've decided to spray paint my box to match the interior color of my trunk and to match the color of my woofers, and I just wanted to know if there would be any negative effects on the wood itself if I did that, because I know the wood will absorb some of the paint but I'm not sure if it'll have any effect on the performance or speakers etc, I don't see why it would but thats why I'm asking. The wood is 3/4 inch MDF, thanks!

It's called impedance, both your amp and sub have an impedance. Its basically resistance with AC (someone will have to clarify me on that), i'm not too informative about it, but the lower your resistance the more current will flow, thus the more power you will recieve. Your coils in your sub also have an impedance, which you can then decide how to wire it, either in series, parallel, or series/parallel. I'd look at a wiring diagram for that, but basically at 1 ohm for that rockford amp it does produce 2500 watts of power, and your average power handling on your sub is 2000 watts. Now unless you're really smart about putting extra power into your speaker, you shouldn't do it. You would be pushing your speaker above the given RMS, not by much, but the rating acts as a guideline on how much power you should use. Now, thats at perfect conditions, you can set your gains on your amp to limit the amount of current flowing through into your amp, there's a power chart somewhere and with a use of a multimeter you can set your ACV to match the amount of power you want, 2000 watts. You can set it lower than that too, only if your electrical isnt up to handling over 2k watts of power. In shorter terms, that amp produces 2500 watts at 1 ohm, and 1000 watts at 4 ohms. If you notice that your battery commits suicide or your headlights dim, you need to either set the gains down or if you know for sure that your electrical cant handle that much power, wire it to 4 ohms.

You can, you can wire that sub up to either 1 or 4 ohms, and the amp is stable in both cases. I think you'd be safe as long as you dont abuse the gains on the amp, also hopefully your electrical is up to par for that amp, it produces raw power.

you're a beast, i'll show him the link tomorrow. i really hope i can get him to buy that, he's really being cheap about his equipment and it makes me mad.

yeah that would be a steal, but for him its just saving as much money as possible which isnt the right way to go if you're cheating out on quality equipment. thats why i'm trying to find an amp that will put out 300w at 1 ohm or 4 ohms just so he doesnt get angry. or anything 300w and above and i can just tune the amp to put out 300w of power, but his budget is really killing me right now, the amp needs to be under $100

my friend ordered some rockford fosgate 10, i forget the model exactly but its a shallow mount woofer. and i was going to ask him to cancel it but it was shipped this morning.

Hey guys, i just had a quick question. i made a screw up on ordering the wrong coils on the sub and its too late because its already getting shipped, i needed 4 ohm coils and i got 2 ohm coils instead. normally this wouldnt be a problem at all but the amps that i'm choosing are limited. There's an alpine V12 that is rated at 350w@2ohms and there's a JL 500/1 thats [email protected]. the alpine amp is almost more than likely to get bought, but when i looked it up a 2 ohm sub can either be wired down to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. Is there any way i can get a 2 ohm load on this speaker with the alpine amp, by either hooking up just one coil or if anyone knows if an alpine mrd-300 is stable at 1 ohm? Thanks for any advice!

Yeah, thats the thing that sucks about getting a pair of havocs, you cant get a 1 ohm load on both of them. You'd have to buy an amp thats 2 ohm stable and puts out enough power @ 2 ohms. 2000w @ 2 ohms would be perfect for a pair of them

those amps got wolverine'd

Alright thanks, i knew i had some car audio intelligence even though its little, i replied to him saying that the only way they're gonna sound like shit is if the amp clips and the speakers blow.

Hey guys, i was on facebook and my friend wanted to know whether or not what type of amp he should buy for his door speakers, aftermarket alpine speakers. well, i'll post the picture and i'll let you guys see the rest. Really, he says that amplifying your door speakers will make them sound like crap, i hardly think so. I just posted this so i figured i knew what i was talking about and not make myself look like an idiot, i'm not trolling the guy but let me know what you guys actually think about in general of amplifying door speakers, and he's already knocking on my equipment without even knowing what it is!

How much current can your power wire that you're going to use from your alt to your battery carry?

paint thinner? i'd paint thin her ass after that

no you wouldnt have to insulate them as long as they arent near any metal and your box moves around a lot you're safe, and i dont think you'd have to worry about any sparking or flashing. Just as long as you drill the bolt in and its firm in the box, slap your wire to it with the ring terminal on it and screw a nut onto the bolt to hold the wire in place, you should be all set.

Bolts work fine, just make sure you mark them to know which is positive and which is negative, and make sure they're a decent distance apart and really tight. Ring terminals would probably be the easiest way to connect the speaker wire to the bolts too.

I think TylerTron also had the same problem, his alternator was also from DB and it was putting out nothing at idle. There was a large thread about it, and i think i read somewhere that he had Dom from Iraggi Alts check it out himself, and they determined it was the alternator.

And i was worried about fucking up my big 3, this guy is something else

Universal means that if you ever decided to get a recone and change the coils of your sub, then it'll be manufactured so that the coils are swapable. If you dont get universal, that means you're stuck with that dual 1 or dual 2 coil.

you're gonna get the same response as before, people here WANT you to build your own stuff as a learning experience. I'm sure someone anyone on this forum here could whip up a box and sell it to you for a good 70-100 bucks, but the whole idea is to get a feel on making your own. What kind of box are you aiming for anyways, sealed or ported? If its sealed, its just slapping a few pieces of mdf together to your likings on the dimensions and putting 2 holes in the front. Ported may be a little more difficult, but not that difficult. You can ask someone to guide you on how to tune a port, the dimensions of the port and things along that line. Trust me, you're gonna like your box much better than just buying one.

yup same

Ah alright, that makes more sense. But it also makes me think, wont i mess up the larger battery as well? The only difference i see is how much current a larger battery would output, which is good, but it still takes longer to charge. Unless i'm missing a very important factor in a large battery vs. a stock one

I understand that, but if i'm driving around with dimming lights with the alternator actually doing work, that must mean something is going on. Its probably all the electrical components in the car drawing so much current. I'm hoping the Big 3 will take care of it (probably not), but what could i do to prevent any future dimming before i'd have to resort to another alt

well shit, mine must be bad because i get dimming at full tilt. I cant sit at idle and crank up the volume for more than 2 minutes and then just shut the car off, the battery would be dead.