dcsoundlabMN
-
Posts
278 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by dcsoundlabMN
-
-
oh-ho shouldnt have said that lol dont bust your self on your own sale...
the car isnt THAT bad the rear is hard to get use to but its decent
its the pics the camera sucked in person it has such a sexy beastly look that pic makes the back look huge and wide but its very proportionate (great spelling )
-
lol your trippin! i buy and sell cars like i do audio (im on car 56 and have not spent one penny of my money sense the 1st 300 dollar car) salvaged titles are garbage, your car has no ac smells when you get on it. the value of that car is low already expect no more than 1500 max
suprisingly i got a loan with 7% interest for the salvage title car from wells fargo! i was suprised
-
that is very true. seeing as the car is only worth 2-2400 in its condition, then the salvage title will hurt it enough to drop it to 1500-2000.
i dont see the AC being a big deal. if you live up north, you probably never use it anyways. i survive every summer in 90-100 degree temps with no ac. i just roll the window down. :
and its not like the AC is completely shot im 95% positive it jus needs a recharge..
-
x2 windows down n let the sounds out hahaaa
ya and the only real reason people dont want salvage titles is cuz there so hard to get a loan for.. otherwise if it is obviously mechanically sound there is no difference just sucks... all i want is a blazer why is it so hard!? haha
-
and it has been completely redone and fixed by me and a family friend (who owns a midas in minneapolis) it runs better then it did before the crash im hoping to pull out of this with at least 2300- 2500 i guess we will see
-
I'll give you a buck fitty and a mean handshake for it......
ha.. ya right.. well i understand its considerably less but it has a 2 way compustar alarm.. whole interior is done engine has minor aftermarket parts its lowered 2 inches all this factors in
i asked 3500 on craigslist but i KNOW i wont get near that but you always gotta start high
-
ya it sucks! it has a salvage title because it was totalled in an accident then i completey fixed it up and replaced everything its a 98 gt with 120000 miles jus had new tranny new spark plugs full tune up and it runs 100% now except everytime i step on it it starts smellin like burning rubber it sucks but i gotta get rid of it i like bass more than looks
-
ya it sucks! it has a salvage title because it was totalled in an accident then i completey fixed it up and replaced everything its a 98 gt with 120000 miles jus had new tranny new spark plugs full tune up and it runs 100% now except everytime i step on it it starts smellin like burning rubber it sucks but i gotta get rid of it i like bass more than looks
-
so i am trying to sell this car to fund my spl truck and i need some advice would any of you buy it ?and how much would you be expecting to pay if it had a salvage title and a few minor problems (ac dont work minor scratches)
-
1 foot or less. you got the idea.
thanks alot you guys.. i think im ready to go
-
ok i see one more thing about how many inches should i have inbetween the fuses and batts like one foot good all around? (stock batt fuse back batt fuse and amp?)
-
add the extra battery in the back and upgrade the front battery later. this way you have 2x the battery power. i would recomend running the battery grounds to eachother instead of to the chassis. but itll work either way.
for your amps. just run a negitive and a positive from the rear battery to the amp. putting another fuse on the + wire that runs to the amp is a good idea.
dont worry about your questions. we were all where you are at one point.
thanks man.. so your saying i could hook the ground on the amp right up to the neg on the batt? is this better? so two fuses in between both batts on pos. and on in between amp and back batt? this is great info and i think i am almost ready to go thanks everyone for your help if theyre is anything else you thin k i should know let me know
-
is theyre anything else i should know like unhook the stock battery before hooking up the back batt or unhook the alt when upgrading wires to and from batt or anything like that?
-
You would run a wire from the rear battery positive to the amp. then ground the amp
ok ya makes sense shouldnt be too hard
-
ok so like this ground----BATTERY----[]------------------------------------------[]-----BATTERY-----ground ???so where does the amp go on this lol wow can you tell this is my first real build?
-
yeah I wondered about that....isn't it just 1500, 2000, 3000 and 3500 Ds?
Edit: Dc, go with the largest battery that can fit under your hood.
i believe so. ok so battery type(size) dont matter, bigger = better?
-
and id recomendreplaceing your under hood batt with somethin good as well not stock
eventually i will be looking to do all that but as of now i am on such a tight budget that i just wanna get this sub wangin
-
1500* my bad i am stuck on the aq2200 or the sundown got em mixed up
-
and what batteries should i be looking at for this setup ex. kinetik 1400 or 2400?
-
alright thanks man, that makes sense so jus ground both batts and is there a such thing as fuse size? or is it based on the gauge sorry for the newbness...
-
i am sort of a newbie at this and am in dire need of some help. i am looking for for someone to tell me EXACTLY how to wire up this system battery and all.. its going to be 1 18" dc level 4 xl (d2) powered by a sundown 2200.
i am going to be wiring up on extra battery in the trunk and am wondering exactly how to do this. ex. where to put the fuses.. what size fuses.. all the little stuff its going to be 0 gauge wires. and since its not THAT much power would it be alright if i were to just replace the stock battery with a kinetik and upgrade the big 3?
im trying to sell this car i need help
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
ya i just got offered 2200 cash but its craigslist so who knows if its legit.. think imma take it