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the_garynator

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Posts posted by the_garynator

  1. it looks beast.. would like to see these in 12 15 and 18's

    now make a whole a line like thay 10's 12's 15's and 18's

    PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! there just to sexy only to be avalible in a 8

    i would love some but have no use for 8's :(

    For all of you wondering if this is going to be moved to other sizes, see Rusty's post below:

    any thoughts on whether the basket will become a dc standard?

    I dont know. Right now its for the 8" but anythings possible I'm sure.

  2. I like everything besides the metal fencing on the basket that prevents us from seeing the coil, I like being able to see the coil moving when subs are inverted also being able to see if the coils cooked or not :D but that's just my opinion!!!

    \

    If we use it the purpose of it is to keep foreign objects out of the gap

    that's what I figured, i've seen some people use fiberglass insulation instead of polyfill inside their sealed boxes, that shit got everywhere on the subs, especially on the mesh on the basket (VVX 12's)

    people are known to also not clean out all the mdf dust from there boxes when there finished building them and it get sucked into the motors

    I had a dream about this last night. For some reason I put my freshly reconed lvl 5 in a manhole cover which had 6ft3 of dug out dirt and some kind of port and was hammering on it and kept thinking that all that dirt and shit was going to get sucked into my motor hahahahaha. WTF :rofl2:

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  3. LOL

    Good luck stabilizing a Level 5..........

    :peepwall:

    hahahahahaha! ikr?!

    best part is (can't really tell from the crappy video), but if I were keeping this setup any longer, I'd need to stabilize/strap the box down cuz at 25hz it rocks back and forth. All the weight started popping the spot welds around the strut tower and wheel well on the passenger side. When I told my buddy I was getting an 18" recone he said he's not worried about the sub trying to tear through the bottom of the car, but he's worried it will actually make it through hahahahaha.

  4. 3" coil wont wont work in a 6.5" spider? We're talking an 8" subwoofer, right? 8" woofer with 8" spider, problem fixed! hahaha, j/k

    I would love to see a 2.5" coil (but as long as it handles the power, 2" would be fine too), a lot of throw, high roll surround, underhung design with a big beastly magnet for under $200.

    On another note, can you do an 8 layer flatwind coil? if not, what would be the limiting factor?

    EDIT: the reason I say underhung, is we all know 8's are really easy to bottom out if you say, accidentally turn on the wrong song. I'd rather bottom out the spider or surround than beat the coil up.

    Also, any idea what Jacob's running for a spider on the sa8v2s? that basket looks pretty crazy.

  5. not saying 8 inch dont perform. and i wont doubt you will make a beast of a 8 inch.. just saying there will be more market on bigger subs. you can even make the same platform you are creating for the 8 into a new line of 12 15 and 18

    hmmmm, Ya well if people like the way this 8 turns out maybe we will start toolings to make diffrent sizes of it

    DC needs something to put the SA-8v2 and dd 2508 to shame lol

  6. I will do some work on this and see what we can start to come up with, But throw some other stuff out there, like surround shape (high roll or half roll)DC branding on the frame , motor boot anything like that or just plain?

    I really want a high roll surround. Also I really like the split spider idea as well as the new 8". A magnet boot would be pretty cool as well as a dc branding on the frame.

    Carbon Fiber full dish dustcap.

    Supersized standard dustcap, basically to make an 18" sub look like one of thorshammers

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  7. Isn't the reinforced surround rubber?

    Did I miss something

    Fi uses a un reinforced surround (no strechy mesh inside), where as the dc, I thought used a rubber one with mesh for the reinforced ones, then the lower levels like the lvl 2. 8s sure seem like foam... they look rubbery and are rubbery to the touch....

    EDIT:

    for pics and

    foam

    ^^^foam that looks rubbery....

    and off to find the pic i want

    shit.... i cant find it

    when i reconed i didnt think the reinforced surround was very "foamy" seemed like rubber compared to some others ive cut open

    CortezDTV, the reinforced surrounds are still Foam. the difference is that they have a mesh in them as well that makes the foam more resistant to tearing (i.e. the non-reinforced surrounds on thorshammer's 10" lvl 5s kept tearing because they didn't have enough roll for the woofer's throw and because the foam tears so easy they didn't hold up)

    A lot of component/coaxial mids and highs have butyl surrounds. There are a lot of subs that have them too like the RF punch hx2s, Skar vvx's, etc.

  8. Found some more info here: http://reconingspeak...efoaming-faq-2/:

    Can I use a butyl rubber surround instead of foam" I hear it doesn’t dry rot.

    The short answer is yes, but not easily. We are often asked if a butyl rubber surround lasts longer than a polyfoam surround. In reality, it does last longer, but it does dry rot just like the polyfoam. You might gain some time, but some experts believe you will experience a small bass loss as well. It is difficult to find the right size butyl surround and they are difficult to work with as they don’t hold their shape well and do not adhere well to the cone or frame. Also, bear in mind that if a speaker has been designed for a woofer with a foam surround, if you change the set up, you are changing the factory parameters. If you are determined to have a butyl surround, in most cases, the speaker can be reconed. There are many more cones that come with a butyl edge as opposed to individual butyl surrounds.

    I've heard adding more spiders raises the FS of the sub as well as providing more control when playing below tuning frequency. So assuming switching to butyl rubber lowers the FS of the sub, you could theoretically add more spiders or stiffer ones to offset the decrease in FS but gain the benefits of the added control?

    Sorry for all the questions and whatnot, I'm just trying to understand a little more about speaker design/why things are done certain ways and the physics behind it vs. someone just saying "do this" or "get this".

    It'd be awesome if Rusty could chime in on the subject. My biggest question is how big of an effect/how noticible switching to butyl surrounds on an 18" m1 lvl 5 would make. And what effects those would be.

    Thanks for the responses guys

  9. Yeah no problem, and let me/us know how that tape job worked out. I'd also like to see how that ap3k works out

    The liquid electrical tape worked well, haven't had the issue since. Unfortunately the tinsel leads being too short has caused issues with them breaking though lol.

    The AP3k has been working great. I've had it for almost a year. No issues since setting the gains with a dd-1. I'm pretty happy with it, it's been surprisingly reliable considering I've run it pretty hard and at pretty low voltage for a while (low 11s) and at times below rated impedance. I've clamped it when it was around 2.3ohms after rise and it was putting out 3011w at around 11.5v. Only issue I've had with it is one of the terminals for the speaker wire stripped out.

  10. I've always loved the look of butyl rubber surrounds. I've done some research on rubber vs foam and the general concensis is to stay with whatever the speaker came with.

    I did see in a thread that increasing moving mass results in a lower FS (http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/foam-vs-rubber-vs-accordian-cloth-surrounds-31032/). I am reconing my Level 5 M1s and I would think that this wouldn't be such a bad thing (I'm tuning low, and using them for music, vs. SPL).

    I also noticed that there isn't a whole lot of information comparing the two in a large car subwoofer setting, it seems that most of the comparisons/information on the subject revolve around small home audio drivers. I'm not sure if this matters, and I would guess the info still applies, but I'm curious if it matters as much when you're talking about something as massive as a lvl 5 vs a small sq woofer (i.e. maybe it wouldn't be as noticeable).

    Has anyone experimented with switching to a rubber surround vs. the standard DC foam types?

    If not, maybe Rusty may be able to comment on the subject since he designed the drivers.

    Also, I'm not expecting any gains or benefits other than cosmetic, I'd just like to know if this is possible to run without totally ruining the performance.

  11. They are available, and based on the prices you listed, they are reasonable

    Thanks Cody. I'll probably get that option when I make my recone order from Rusty.

    Also wondering on two other possible options.

    Rusty posted a photo of an inverted green carbon fiber dustcap on FB a while back. it looked basically like a carbon fiber version of the TFS dustcap. It was on a 10" or 12" woofer (don't remember). I was wondering if they are available for 15s or 18s and if they're scaled to size (i.e. would be basically a carbon fiber version of the TFS cap)?

    Second question, is it possible (whether through an existing option or modifying current equipment) to make a Lvl 5 m1 (or other dc lines for that matter) field reconeable like the hcca or something? Reason I ask is that I'd like to be able to switch my level 5s between say 15s and 18s without having to buy a new recone every time. I know it's kinda a pipe dream but was just wondering if anyone has any knowledge of someone doing something like this.

    The sub you talking about is a m2 lvl 5 12, yes it's a full dish cap. Field option not possable

    Yeah, my question is, is there a carbon fiber full dish cap available in 15s and/or 18s?

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