the_garynator

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About the_garynator

  • Rank
    130db
  • Birthday 07/05/1985

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    WI
  • Interests
    Nissans, racing, Cars, Home and Car Audio, Computers

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  1. The reason tuning close didn't work well is because the front chamber tuning of a series tuned 6th acts like a 4th order in the fact that it acts as an acoustic filter. It is used to tune the high frequency cut off. Think of it as a low pass filter. As you get close to its tuning frequency, output starts to drop off. So basically just as your rear chamber starts to reach its usable bandwidth, the front chamber starts to limit the output. I've got some more detailed notes on how tuning them works from other posts I've made in the past I'll post later when I have time.
  2. I could probably help you design a series tuned 6th that would be pretty good without any messing around, but it would require fairly precise building / assembly. Also, to answer one of your questions from earlier, the reason you don't see a ton is due to a few reasons. Most people don't understand 6th orders Most people tend to test and tune, which requires vastly more work when dealing with a 6th than a standard ported box 6th orders require a lot more space than ported boxes 6ths are more complex to design and build than ported 6ths are a lot less "forgiving" than ported boxes, even slightly miscalculations / mistakes can not only cause poor performance but equipment failure. Similar to 4th orders, the "front" high tuned chamber acts as an acoustic filter which filters out high frequencies, this paired with the fact that in a lot of cases you can't see the woofers' excursion means if they are bottoming out, you won't be able to hear it and you have less of a chance to see it. 6ths, especially the large ratio ones built for large subs, tend to have extremely high impedance rise. For example, I saw 6x rise 3hz below the tuning frequency of my low tuned chamber in my parallel 6th order walk through with 2 sundown x15s. They were wired to 1ohm per channel on my warhorse and rising to 6ohm per channel! Bandpass enclosures, especially the larger ratio ones where you'll see the biggest gains over a standard alignment can be pretty hard on the suspension of the subs. With all of these 'cons' you may be wondering why anyone even bothers with them. Most people don't, hence why you see mostly ported lol. But the answer is, properly built / designed / planned, they can be quite incredible. You can get all of the spl a ported box has with a substantially larger bandwidth, or quite a large bump in output if built for spl. An example of bandwidth are the parallel 6th orders I built a few years back for my roadmaster wagon. The second one was for 2 alpine type r 10s. Running 2 apsm2000s strapped, they did high 130s to low 140s sealed at the dash from 29hz all the way to 70hz in a vehicle that metered absolutely terrible no matter what was donever short of walling it. For comparison, we put them in the back of my friend's 4runner and ran the speaker wire to my car and they did a 149 at 36hz sealed at the dash, car off. They took 2x rms (clamped) daily and 3x for burps! On the spl side, my series tuned 6th order blow through in my hardbody pickup did 150.2 sealed at the dash with 2 12" power acoustiks mofos (the crappy 2.5" coil ones) on a shark 3500 clamping under 2000wrms AND did hair tricks! The bandwidth wasnt anything to write home about though, being a huge ratio and tuned low. Was close to a 5:1 ratio. Hope this was informative. Let me know if I can answer any questions or help.
  3. Yeah, what are your goals?
  4. Spent 2 more hours working on the truck today and the wall is officially out! Also pulled my alternator bracket off, welded the spacers for the idler pulley and dropped it off at my powder coater. Just have to finish up my new design and I can start building!
  5. Operation wall removal and rebuild has started Cleaned up my garage and tried out my new hydraulic car dollies and spun the truck around. They worked slick as hell: Calling it a night, made quite a bit of progress tonight!
  6. Makin progress. Once this piece is zapped in, then I'm going to sandwich it between a wider piece on top and one on the bottom.
  7. Thanks man! Wow, just realized I haven't updated this in forever, I'll try to get some updates in the next week to bring this current!
  8. Lmao, I have a tpi set up in thought about throwing on, but it was far easier to keep it carborated. I really didn't want to do any engine / drivetrain work on this so I could focus on the audio, but the old carb was pretty bad and the old transmission went to hell so I figured I'd do it right so I won't have any issues in the future. I've got an rb26 swapped 240sx I'm building too, so if I'm doing engine / electrical / non audio related stuff, I'd rather put my effort towards that lol.
  9. Damn! Shits getting serious! Looking good. Is that a DC lvl 1?
  10. Made quite a bit of progress last night! Got the intake manifold, carb, etc mounted: Headers, plugs, fuel system, new custom upper and lower radiator hoses. Test fitted the radiator so I could check for how much clearance I have to mount a transmission cooler on the front of it. And it's looking like an engine again! I also stripped the passenger door to start reinforcing it! As well as evaluate the flex damage, this is the front window track lol: The mirror caused some damage too: Planning on getting some more work done today if I can muster up some ambition lol
  11. Thanks for the idea! I'll probably try that combined with welding metal in to reinforce the frame and inner door