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the_garynator

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the_garynator last won the day on June 4

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About the_garynator

  • Rank
    140db
  • Birthday 07/05/1985

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    WI
  • Interests
    Nissans, racing, Cars, Home and Car Audio, Computers

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  1. A friend of mine tested his clip light vs a dd-1 and it was dead on with the dd-1. I don't remember what brand amp it was off the top of my head, but I'd say they're reasonably accurate.
  2. CES Is legit, they're exceptional quality and have A+++ customer service!
  3. not a problem! yes, it would be enough power to push it to its limits, so would have to be a bit careful, but with enough headroom he'll at least have a bit of warning in most cases as the coils will start stinking before any damage occurs (assuming it isn't bottoming out), vs if pushing a smaller amp to the edge and clipping the stink outta them lol. but yeah, I agree.
  4. that should do the trick
  5. as far as I know he still has the car. Haven't seen any updates on it since May 19th on facebook though
  6. for amp I'd suggest something like a 7.5k, you could get away with a 5.0k wired to .5 probably but would be running the amp hard. For enclosure, I suggest doing 3.25ft3 after displacements and tuned to around 30hz. You'll want as much port area as you can fit.
  7. you shush! lmao I'll post some more pictures this week, hopefully get the thread caught up. In the meantime, I'll leave you all with this little tidbit I found during the tear down....Over the last 2 years, I haven't even been running the subs hard enough to make a loose dustcap make noise, turns out one of my woofers has a dustcap that has been loose since at least the first 160 I posted. I only noticed it making noise if I was wired to 0.25 ohm per amp and turned it up past what I'd normally demo at (~3000-3500wrms per woofer). So once the rebuild is done, in addition to the extra cabin reinforcements, I'll have a significantly larger amount of power on tap since I'll be wiring down to .25 / amp as well as going 18v
  8. Thanks man! So the passenger door started flapping a little bit this year after the rebuild. Turns out the changes made quite a difference because I went to close the door the day after I dropped it off at my shop to get started on the current project, and it wouldn't close. Upon further inspection I noticed that 3 of the 4 bolts had sheared off lol Replaced everything with grade 8 hardware. Can't wait to see what a difference it made. So here's what I'm currently working on. I'm replacing the head unit with a windows 10 tablet and high end external sound card. I'll go into more detail about the hardware when I have more time. Im also upgrading the power for the mids and highs and doing a bit of wiring clean up More to come
  9. Thanks guys! I kind of like the raw look of my doors so instead of letting them rust I used clear plastidip Also did it on the cap bank frame Added a temporary AGM under the hood. I sold my JY this winter because I never drop voltage low enough use it and there's a slow drain in the truck I haven't had a chance to fix yet. So it was very stressful having such an expensive starting battery that needed to be on a charger 24/7 if the truck was sitting, because without a charger, it would drain in like a week of sitting and could destroy the battery. Got some new DC decals made up too Notice the #dcballslap above the passenger door? Project Flexington inspired DC Audio to make those, figured it was fitting lol. I'll have to see if I can dig up the screenshot of how that came about, it was rather entertaining. Now onto the post Slamology 2018 pictures: Went through and did a valve adjustment and carb tune up. Runs great again Here's a little sneak peak at what I'll be posting next and currently still working on:
  10. Finally ripped out the last piece of the previous owners build Prepped the roof, 2 layers of vibraflex, a third layer in the middle, 2 big tubes of PL on the top layer (about the size of where the grid of screws is) and a second layer of birch. The second layer isnt PL'd yet because I have some welding plans for the roof yet. Everything is together Did a 32hz burp sealed at the dash, truck off on only caps It should be even louder now but no time to retest yet finished plastidipping the truck More to come!
  11. Well, it's been a while since I have updated this thread. Haven't done a ton since last update, but there have definitely been some improvements. Let's start with something I found pretty hilarious. Got pulled over on the highway last year. Passed a cop who was 3 lanes over from me and he gave me the funniest warning I've ever gotten: Anyway, this springs work consisted of a redesign of the 6th order. Basically flipped the internals, shrunk front chamber and ports and did some new bracing Also added quite a bit more screws lol New front chamber loading wall Sealed off the cabin much better: Subs loaded More to come!
  12. I disagree, it doesn't work like that. For illustration and simplicity's sake, let's pretend your 5ks are seeing 1ohm each. We'll use DC Audio for example. A single 5.0k at 1 ohm can put out 5,000w. Lets assume at 5,000w it will pull a maximum of 500a (at 14.4v) from your electrical as evidenced by the fuse rating: 2 of them would pull 1000 amps. Using that logic, a 10k should pull the same amount of current at 0.5 ohm and therefore be fused lower than 1000a if rated at 1 ohm, but it isn't. It's rated at 1ohm and requires 1000a of fusing. The only time you'd see the situation that you're describing is if you were running 2 5ks strapped at .5ohm. Each would be seeing 0.25 ohm making them pull current comparable to a single 10k at 0.25. The only thing on the electrical (input) side of the amp that is effected by nominal impedance on the output side is efficiency of the amp, which wiring down could potentially make it draw more current if wired lower. Having the power to the amps wired in parallel has nothing to do with the load your amp is seeing. 2 5ks at 1 ohm each will pull the same as a 10k at 1 ohm (I'm generalizing for illustration purposes obviously). Hope this makes sense.
  13. I approve these updates!!!! So much JY Pwwwwwwrrrrr! Running 2 5ks at 0.5ohm each would be the equivalent of running a 10k at 0.5ohm, not 0.25. If you were running a pair of strapped 5.0ks at 0.5ohm then it would be like a 10k at 0.25ohm. Just for the record. Either way, your electrical is on point! Keep up the good work!
  14. Some more parts showed up for my charging system upgrade, going to attempt to get power steering worked in if I can! I'm really excited to tear into this pproject this winter! New serpentine conversion brackets, ps pump, mechman alternator bracket and xs power vcm Oh and the remote I ordered showed up, thought it had a volume knob but turns out it's just a d pad
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