the_garynator

SMD Gold Member
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About the_garynator

  • Rank
    130db
  • Birthday 07/05/1985

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    WI
  • Interests
    Nissans, racing, Cars, Home and Car Audio, Computers

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  1. Just a small update, I bought another bank of XS Power super caps on Sunday. Now I'll be running 4 banks. Im considering shinking the depth of my wall and building it as wide as i can in the bed of the truck so that i can mount the amps behind the box for better packaging / mounting of the capacitors. Also considering ditching 2 of my batteries since i really shouldnt need them and it'll free up some more space. Thoughts on this anyone?
  2. Thanks man! Should have some more updates this week, hopefully will have it running if all goes smoothly
  3. Wow! Talk about efficiency, very impressive on such a big build!
  4. This is one of my favorite builds of all time. I especially appreciate you taking the time to post all of your cabin reinforcements, I'll be doing mine soon and its nice to see what others have done. It's something that seems to be lacking in many builds (or at least the threads). Your build is definitely an inspiration!
  5. 3 months from now can't come fast enough...I'm so excited for a pair of these to show up. Going to need to incorporate a window of some sort into the new wall to show off the carbon cones lol
  6. Update 4: Had to cut an access panel for the transmission cooler lines so they would clear: Pulled the intake manifold: Unfortunately we found that the valve seals were shot, so off came the heads: Luckilly i had a set of heads laying around from my old roadmaster that i never ended up putting on. Theyre mildly ported 993 heads with 500 lift springs. Had them resurfaced at the machine shop and had the valve seals replaced too: Made myself a mount for my new shifter: And thats where its at presently. Im going to probably pull the passenger door off soon and start reinforcing it. Planning on tearing into the wall after the engine work is done and getting it ready for the DC Neos!
  7. Yeah, I was a bit disappointed when I found out. I actually have a brand new 80prs I purchased for the truck but then found out the 5700 has the active crossovers too. I have a 4100nex in my 370z and going back to a single din in the truck was torture so I ended up not even installing the 80prs and ordered the 5700 lol. Turns out the 80prs has the same crossover network, so it's a 2 way + sub as well.
  8. I was planning on running full active but found out the "3 way active crossovers" are actually 2 way wait the sub out as the 3rd. So it kinda threw a wrench in my gears since my tweeters have passive crossovers and i needed active for the woofers and midranges. I might end up switching out the PA 10s for something with more frequency range and do active on my tweetes and whatever i end up using for mids. Ill definitely let you know
  9. If by extremely current draw hungry you mean 10000wrms requires a lot of electrical...but in comparison to other amps that put out similar power it's actually quite the opposite. They are EXTREMELY efficient and will pull around 750-800amps to make 10k, vs other 9-10k amps that will pull quite a bit more. Just saying lol Also, in regards to wiring a dual 1.5ohm sub to it, you'll probably be fine since box rise will most likely bring you up over 2ohm per coil. As all setups are different, I can't say for sure, so do so at your own risk.
  10. Figure some of you may get a kick outta this. Video is from the blow-through I was messing around with in my truck before I did the walk-through parallel 6th order. Link to the build thread for this setup is in my sig. Let me know what you think
  11. I've got quite a bit of experience with Parallel Tuned 6th Orders and a bit of experience with Series tuned. I don't have time at the moment to do a brain dump of everything but here are some PMs I had sent a couple members on the subject. Some info I sent to a SMD member, I think it explains the fundamentals of Series Tuned 6ths rather well: Think about it like a normal ported box like the internal low tuned chamber. That's going to determine the response of the enclosure. Tuning of this chamber will also determine the bottom of the pass band (passband = use able range of frequencies it will play) Now your port tuning on the high tuned, big side that is ported into the cabin is actually what determines the top of the pass band because it acts like an acoustic filter like a 4th order. So the output will drop SIGNIFICANTLY at and above this frequency. Simple, right? Its pretty much that simple, except for one thing thing you have to take into account, the effects of the high tuned chamber's port on the overall tuning of the enclosure. It's actually pretty easy too since it acts basically like a port extension for the rear chamber. So basically, to figure out the length of the internal port, design a standard ported box to your specs, then subtract the length of the port in your big chamber. Does that make sense? Couple rules of thumb: Usually its easiest to use the thickness of your loading wall as the port length of the Big chamber port, then make it as big as you can to achieve the frequency you want for the high tuned side. For example, (I'm just making these #s up for an example) you want your rear chamber to be tuned at 25hz, which requires a 15" ongoing port. Let's say the big side port is 5" long to be tuned at 50hz. This means your low tuned side port would need to be 10" long to tune it at 25hz. Here's some info I actually sent Triticum regarding both types (mainly series tuned): I'll have to dig up my test results from my previous parallel 6ths. I actually would say that from my experience, parallels are more tricky to get right. By tricky I mean the tuning frequencies have to be just right to keep the sub together at high wattages. Series tuned basically act like a ported box with more gain and ability to handle more power. They actually function very much like 4th orders. From my limited testing and understanding based on research, etc. They actually have a response curve just like a ported box the same as the rear chamber if it were a standard ported box with ports that are as much longer as the external ports length. Tuning the rear chamber needs to include the front port length because the front port acts as an extension of the rears. The front port also acts as aneeded acoustic filter just like a 4th order. So to tune the series 6th, you tune the front chamber to where you want the upper limit of frequency response (i.e. big drop off in output after 50hz if the front chamber is tuned to 50hz). Then you tune the rear chamber (adding the front chamber port length to the rear ports) to the low end of the pass band. Below this point output will drop off as well. My results (30hz rear chamber, 50hz front, 5:1 ish ratio) basically had insane output from around 26hz to low 40hz. Then dropped off quite a bit mid 40s (up to 6db!) till arounder 48hz where cabin gain came into play again. In comparison, parallels seem to have much better bandwidth through the passband, and allows the option to go small power handling chamber tuned high and the low tuned to be as big as you want to go (or visa versa). I think a lot of my results are actually in the build thread in my sig. The crossover point is the easy place to screw up, if you are pushing the woofers hard, cone control can get out of hand quick even with a miscalculation and spacing out the tuning by only a couple hz. As stated in the second part, I have a lot of info regarding Parallel Tuned 6ths in my old build threads, so feel free to browse them. Eventually I'd like to do a write up on both with comparisons and testing data and such, but haven't had time. I'd also like to mess around a bit more with Series Tuned since it would be nice to have more testing data to back up my theories. But hopefully this helps a bit. If I get a chance I'll post some more later and try to directly answer your question ("Between the two alignments, is there a performance difference between the two?"). Good Luck!
  12. I did not, wasn't sure who would be the best to contact, any suggestions?
  13. HAHAHAHA, should rip pretty good with the upgrades. It actually was pretty quick before the transmission took a crap, even with all of the equipment in, kept up with a superduty that has 16k under the hood!