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About the_garynator

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  • Birthday 07/05/1985

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    Nissans, racing, Cars, Home and Car Audio, Computers

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  1. Lol, seems like a lot of people do No, but I have a pushrod measurement tool I'll be using to check if longer will be needed. Thanks man! Very cool, I'm leaving Wisconsin in about 30min. My 370z is still in the shop from an accident, so we're taking my girlfriend's Roush 428r Mustang so I'm not complaining! On another note, my friend Geoff hooked me up with some sweet hardware for my caps, now I just need buss bars from him!
  2. Ended up tearing apart the harness again and decided to further wire tuck the engine bay. Not many pictures but this is the main thing I've been working on. A relay box, the main engine harness, head unit harness and fan harness. The engine harness will be run out into the transmission tunnel and up the rear of the engine with the exception of 1 wire for the alternators and the power for the fans and water pump. Fans will be on a relay controlled by a 3way toggle switch with switched 12v as well as constant. New passenger window seal for the truck and a new tach and fuel level gauge. Now all of them will match. Should have one more update before I leave for vacation in Miami for 2 weeks, going to Ultra Music Festival with my girlfriend. Hopefully I can finish up fast when I get back because I'll have 30 days before the first event of the season and have a long way to go lol.
  3. Got some more accomplished today. Here are the exhaust manifold gaskets I picked up, they should do the job. Finished up the transmission harness and put it in the truck. Still have to hook up the tps, switched 12v, power and tach signal but it's close! Got 8 of the rockers installed, just have to do the other 8 and set lash and the valvetrain should be good to go! That's about it for today. More to come tomorrow.
  4. Time for another update! My new stainless full roller rockers arrived. It worked out nicely because the 993 heads I used have pushrod guides from the factory so I was able to go with non-selfaligning roller rockers without the need for guide plates which would have required new rocker studs and machining. Hopefully these take care of the slop in the valvetrain caused by running a solid lifter cam with stock valvetrain. The nice thing is, I can use them with a hydraulic lifter cam too, which I plan on putting in next winter. I would have done that now, but it would require pulling the engine again and buying another set of intake gaskets. I also bought a pushrod length checker so i can make sure my valvetrain geometry is correct since we did mill off a bit of the heads for a small compression bump. In addition I bought a set of reusable aluminum exhaust manifold gaskets as the old ones have a leak and I'll be pulling the manifolds multiple times in the future. Did some work on the transmission harness, reloomed some of it and separated the parts I won't be using which cleaned it up a bit. Just have to solder the new speed sensor plug on and test fit it in the truck. Pulled my gauge cluster to put in my new speedometer but found out the old one was 3 3/8" and the new one is 3 3/4" so I'll have to bore the hole out bigger. While I was rewiring it I got frustrated with the multiple brands of gauges and said fuck it. I ordered a new fuel gauge and tach and happened to have brand new water temp and oil pressure gauges laying around. Unfortunately they are the tinted versions but other than that they're identical. I purchased 100ft of the conduit I'll be running underneath the truck. Unfortunately I realized finding a way to get 15 runs of 2/0 from the engine bay to the underside of the truck is going to be a rather big challenge. The big v8 crammed in the tiny engine bay leaves very little space so I'll have to get creative. I plan on body lifting it next winter to alleviate this issue as well as some others. Other than that, I've spent quite a few hours designing the new wall (much of it spent banging my head against the wall). It's been a huge pita due to space constraints. The big breakthrough came when I realized that with the stock wheels and tires, one of my biggest obstacles, the wheel wells in the bed, are entirely way larger than they need to be. So I will be cutting out 3" from the insides of each. This will leave me with 48" between them instead of only 42. I will also most likely cut about 3" off the top of them to make things fit better. Once I body lift it I'll be able to remove them entirely lol. Anyway, I'm going to go finish up the transmission harness, install it, then probably start replacing the rocker arms. More updates to come.
  5. Thanks man, no, just me vaping lol. Just a little update, we set the lash today and fired her up. We need to figure out a solution for the valvetrain because the stock rockers aren't going to work with the solid lifter cam. It runs but after adjusting the lash the rockers have too much play so there's a lot of valvetrain noise. We're either going to do roller rockers or say fuck it and tear back into it and do a hydraulic lifter cam. Also found out that my radiator cap isn't going to work with the filler neck and my fuel pump is leaking. So I'm going to convert to an electric fuel pump. Other than the valvetrain clatter, she ran great, so overall it was a good day!
  6. Made a lot of progress today! Almost started but realized it has a solid roller cam not hydraulic so we have to readjust the lash. But it should start tomorrow! Alternator bracket turned out great! Extremely happy with how the powder coating turned out! Unfortunately I'm not happy with the look of the air cleaner, going to replace with a carb to 4" intake tube and cone filter eventually. Rubber valve cover gaskets, studs and stainless nylon lock nuts! Transmission cooler mounted and ready for a test start: So close. Almost started but realized it has a solid tappet cam not hydraulic so we have to readjust the lash. But it should start tomorrow! More to come tomorrow!
  7. Made a lot of progress today! Almost started but realized it has a solid roller cam not hydraulic so we have to readjust the lash. But it should start tomorrow! Alternator bracket turned out great! Extremely happy with how the powder coating turned out! Unfortunately I'm not happy with the look of the air cleaner, going to replace with a carb to 4" intake tube and cone filter eventually. Rubber valve cover gaskets, studs and stainless nylon lock nuts! So close. Almost started but realized it has a solid roller cam not hydraulic so we have to readjust the lash. But it should start tomorrow! More to come tomorrow!
  8. Got my valve covers and alternator bracket back from powder coating! Got a new breather, oil cap and painted the lettering and emblem black (rather terribly to be honest but looks ok from a foot or 2 away). I also painted the top of the breather black to match since silver kind of clashed. Considering doing something similar to the oil cap too. What do you guys think? Picked up misc other stuff like valve cover gaskets, threaded rod to mount the new air cleaner (stock holley didn't work). No need for pictures lol. Also finally figured out a near perfect solution for running power wire under the truck! It's waterproof, flexible, extremely easy to install, fits 2/0, 2/0 ring terminals fit through it easily!, and extremely cheap! Only $0.65 / foot! Plus about $1-2 for fittings, and like $0.50-1 in heat shrink! 1in Flexible pvc conduit at menards. It's $6.99 for a 10ft section and $64.99 for a 100ft roll. Here's a mockup. You'd drill a hole in the vehicle where the wire will reenter. Outer grey fitting would go on the inside, other one outside, silicone or similar between the two to seal it. Adhesive lined heat shrink to insure water tight seal on (not shrunk in picture). Other end would have heatshrink from the blue conduit to the wire to seal the other side of the length, or to a fitting if running back into the vehicle. About to go out and start hammering out some work on it in a few minutes, more updates will be inbound! Let me know what you think, feedback helps keep the motivation up!
  9. Haven't done much work to the truck yet, mainly just pulled out the last two pieces of the top layer of the bottom and cleaned up the bed of the truck. Been mostly working on the new box design and figuring out how to best reinforce the doors. My valve covers and alternator bracket will be back from powder coating tonight and It looks like it should be nice out this weekend so I'm going to be pushing really hard to get it running and hopefully be able to take it out for a spin on Sunday! Should be quite fun with no weight in the bed! Stay tuned for updates!
  10. The reason tuning close didn't work well is because the front chamber tuning of a series tuned 6th acts like a 4th order in the fact that it acts as an acoustic filter. It is used to tune the high frequency cut off. Think of it as a low pass filter. As you get close to its tuning frequency, output starts to drop off. So basically just as your rear chamber starts to reach its usable bandwidth, the front chamber starts to limit the output. I've got some more detailed notes on how tuning them works from other posts I've made in the past I'll post later when I have time.
  11. I could probably help you design a series tuned 6th that would be pretty good without any messing around, but it would require fairly precise building / assembly. Also, to answer one of your questions from earlier, the reason you don't see a ton is due to a few reasons. Most people don't understand 6th orders Most people tend to test and tune, which requires vastly more work when dealing with a 6th than a standard ported box 6th orders require a lot more space than ported boxes 6ths are more complex to design and build than ported 6ths are a lot less "forgiving" than ported boxes, even slightly miscalculations / mistakes can not only cause poor performance but equipment failure. Similar to 4th orders, the "front" high tuned chamber acts as an acoustic filter which filters out high frequencies, this paired with the fact that in a lot of cases you can't see the woofers' excursion means if they are bottoming out, you won't be able to hear it and you have less of a chance to see it. 6ths, especially the large ratio ones built for large subs, tend to have extremely high impedance rise. For example, I saw 6x rise 3hz below the tuning frequency of my low tuned chamber in my parallel 6th order walk through with 2 sundown x15s. They were wired to 1ohm per channel on my warhorse and rising to 6ohm per channel! Bandpass enclosures, especially the larger ratio ones where you'll see the biggest gains over a standard alignment can be pretty hard on the suspension of the subs. With all of these 'cons' you may be wondering why anyone even bothers with them. Most people don't, hence why you see mostly ported lol. But the answer is, properly built / designed / planned, they can be quite incredible. You can get all of the spl a ported box has with a substantially larger bandwidth, or quite a large bump in output if built for spl. An example of bandwidth are the parallel 6th orders I built a few years back for my roadmaster wagon. The second one was for 2 alpine type r 10s. Running 2 apsm2000s strapped, they did high 130s to low 140s sealed at the dash from 29hz all the way to 70hz in a vehicle that metered absolutely terrible no matter what was donever short of walling it. For comparison, we put them in the back of my friend's 4runner and ran the speaker wire to my car and they did a 149 at 36hz sealed at the dash, car off. They took 2x rms (clamped) daily and 3x for burps! On the spl side, my series tuned 6th order blow through in my hardbody pickup did 150.2 sealed at the dash with 2 12" power acoustiks mofos (the crappy 2.5" coil ones) on a shark 3500 clamping under 2000wrms AND did hair tricks! The bandwidth wasnt anything to write home about though, being a huge ratio and tuned low. Was close to a 5:1 ratio. Hope this was informative. Let me know if I can answer any questions or help.
  12. Yeah, what are your goals?
  13. Spent 2 more hours working on the truck today and the wall is officially out! Also pulled my alternator bracket off, welded the spacers for the idler pulley and dropped it off at my powder coater. Just have to finish up my new design and I can start building!
  14. Operation wall removal and rebuild has started Cleaned up my garage and tried out my new hydraulic car dollies and spun the truck around. They worked slick as hell: Calling it a night, made quite a bit of progress tonight!