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the_garynator

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Posts posted by the_garynator

  1. If your worried about them being expensive just don't solder on the original terminals, instead solder two 8 gauge wires well 4 total.

    It's not that I'm worried about them being expensive, I just wanted an idea of how much the option was so that I could determine whether or not I was willing to spend extra $$$ on them. and the direct leads that I'm talking about are different than soldering the leads to 8ga. they're woven into the spider...vs the standard ones that are just stiched down to the spiders in a few spots.

  2. They are available, and based on the prices you listed, they are reasonable

    Thanks Cody. I'll probably get that option when I make my recone order from Rusty.

    Also wondering on two other possible options.

    Rusty posted a photo of an inverted green carbon fiber dustcap on FB a while back. it looked basically like a carbon fiber version of the TFS dustcap. It was on a 10" or 12" woofer (don't remember). I was wondering if they are available for 15s or 18s and if they're scaled to size (i.e. would be basically a carbon fiber version of the TFS cap)?

    Second question, is it possible (whether through an existing option or modifying current equipment) to make a Lvl 5 m1 (or other dc lines for that matter) field reconeable like the hcca or something? Reason I ask is that I'd like to be able to switch my level 5s between say 15s and 18s without having to buy a new recone every time. I know it's kinda a pipe dream but was just wondering if anyone has any knowledge of someone doing something like this.

  3. what are you doing that is making the spiders rip from the spiders?

    I bought the sub used, and after further inspection it looks like the spider has been reglued down, the tinsel leads are about half the length that they should be and have torn out of the spider. If I run it full tilt it snaps tinsel leads...I've fixed them once, but it only held together for about 3 weeks. I'm trying to keep this thing together for another month until I decide if I'm getting a new winter beater (debating picking up a buick roadmaster wagon hell yeah), cuz if I do, I'll be reconing them into 18's, don't really want to recone one, just to recone it again in a month lol.

  4. 1990 240sx

    151.0 (43hz) at the dash with driver's door open - termlab

    Car running but due to some wiring issues voltage was drooping to mid 11's

    3011rms clamped

    1 Level 5 15" with 2 dead coils (2x 2ohm left)

    stock 80amp alt + 125amp alt

    1 walmart deep cycle up front, 1 fleet farm deep cycle in back

    4x 1/0 gauge (1 per alt power, 1 battery to battery pos. and one battery neg to neg)

    Audiopipe ap30001d at 1ohm (just a hair over 2ohm with box rise)

    4ft3 after displacement, 3x 4" external rear firing precision ports tuned to 38hz, sub up firing

  5. Any tips or tricks to restitching tinsel leads down to the spider? I recently picked up a second lvl 5 m1 (used) and it looks like it has had the stitching that secures the tinsel leads to the spider pulled out (possibly from over-excursion). I beleive they are touching at high excursion.

    I just need a temporary fix since I'll be reconing both of my level 5s soon, but in the mean time I want to run this one (my other has 2 dead voice coils) but don't want to take the chance of blowing my amp. The other fix I was thinking of would be to use some liquid electrical tape on them but wasn't sure if that would potentially cause heat disapation issues.

    Thanks,

    Gary

  6. Figured I'd post up here, see if anyone has had experience with this type of setup.

    I purchased one of these (except from Ebay): http://www.amazon.co...t/dp/B000H3PPNM

    Hooked everything up, it seems to be doing its job, I'm now able to select CD as a source, however, when I tried to test it out, I hooked up my phone (tried my friend's too) and no sound was coming out.

    The weirdest part is that the spectrograph animation in the background is going, so I know the deck is getting the signal, but yet it's almost like the output is disabled. (all of my stuff is amped, but I also tried a speaker on the deck's amp). Also, the display says CD, and track time shows as 0000 or whatever.

    One other thing to note is that it seems that there is only amplifier "hiss" when the CD source is selected, whereas when I select the normal input, there is more "hiss". Makes me think that the outputs are disabled, vs. it being an input issue.

    I'm trying to figure out if this is an issue with the adapter, compatibility, or a settings thing.

    Not sure how these things normally function, any insight would be appreciated.

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