TommyK
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Posts posted by TommyK
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Idk about metal to wood but wood to wood you aught to be good any type of wood glue. The mdf or whatever you using will probably break/rip before the glued joints came loose because it fuses the fibers together as if its one peice as long as your using enough to cover the areas completely
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So it was a prefab, since you said it was a box from RE Audio?
Whoops I typed my post completley wrong somehow lol, but no the box was built me.
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The 12" sub was a 12" RE REX in a 1.5 cubic foot box tuned to 34Hz and my new 15" is an RE SRX is in a sealed 2.2 cu foot box hooked up to a Fosgate Punch 300 amp, it says 412 RMS on the birthsheet at 2 ohms
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I recently got a new system I had a 12" sub in a ported box tuned to 34 Hz but now I got a 15" sub in a 2.2 ft box and it just hits so low omg and its so much louder even though its sealed
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Im trying to make my box look like the first one, so how many common port walls would I type in? And if i cut the peices with the cutouts the calculator gave me wouldnt they not fit together right? If I dont have enough port area what does that mean, my sub is not getting enough air? Im trying to squeeze this box in my small trunk hah. Thanks for the feedback though i didnt think anyone was going to get a sketch that fast let alone 3
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I want the sub up if thats what you mean bye the long side and port going on the back , I basically just want to make sure the sizes that is tells me to cut the peices are right and what it looks like.
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Those dimensions confuse me. I'm not sure how it would go. Can you put up a screen shot of your box design in the calculator?
Yea
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Those dimensions confuse me. I'm not sure how it would go. Can you put up a screen shot of your box design in the calculator?
Yea
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I used torres box tuning calculator and it gives me the cutouts:
Top:21'' x 28''
Bottom:21'' x 28''
Sides:21'' x 28''
Front/back:21'' x 28''
Port top/bottom:3.5'' x 14.25''
Port sides:10.5'' x 14.25''
what will my box look like wen built?
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Its actually a bag of sour patch kids wrapped in a shirt which makes sense because it falls out when it hits him. Regardless though its still funny!
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i doubt that is the heat problem.
O I got you now. But thats probably what caused the trace to melt was the short?
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So if I were to leave just the ground plugged into the amp and then touch the positive onto the brushed metal outside it wouldnt cause that to happen? You got me confused because at first you said maybe a + hit a heatsink then you said you doubt that was what caused it.
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I just tested that with my multimeter, neg on neg on amp and pos on brushed metal outside and it has continuity. There is a burn mark on the same surface that I thought was from a cigarette but it bet thats what happened. Do you think if I fix it it will keep the amp cooler? or is that just normal for this amp to get a lil toasty?
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the big hunk of metal that the board sits in lol. everything you see on the outside is a heat sink.
So if I have the Neg wire plugged into my amp and then touch the Pos wire anywhere on the amp thats metal, it will short?
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too much heat. maybe a + wire hit the heat sink? just a guess.
My friend that I bought this off of likes to "ghetto rig" things so thats sounds possible. What heatsink do you mean though?
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Thats was I was thinking. Any idea of how it happened though?
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I posted before but noone knew what I was talking about. This time I have pics. When i bought this amp used from a friend I opened it up and saw this. The amp works though but tends to get a little hot. Amp is an Alpine MRP-M450.
Circled in red is where the location of the broken trace.
Up Close.
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Sub and port firing towards the trunk? Yes and you'll lose a ton of rattles also and give the sound a better surface to reflect off of other then sheet metal.
edit: I meant to say you can gain DeeBees by dynamatin your trunk yo
Yea sub and port both firing into rear. Thanks guys!
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"Dynamat your trunk yo!"
Lol I see that alot and I agree with you on that one! But again Im trying to figure out if only doing the trunk lid will give a noticable difference in loudness and quality in the cabin.
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I was thinking of sound deadening just my trunk lid. If I only do my lid will I notice a difference in loudness inside my car? If I do what name should I go with? I hear Dynamat is a night and day difference between that and no deadener, then I hear Second Skin is a night and day difference between that and Dynamat! Im not looking to spend a ton of money.
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I hear Bass Boost knobs are a no no. Maybe that was it?
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Ill try lol. If it smells sweet or pleasant its probably a bit of glue. If it sort of sticks out and smells dank it could be coil. But If its that new its probably glue. If your cone it getting hot though from just playing alone it could possibly be coil.
Question yo you guys who have super loud bass...
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted · Edited by TommyK
Okay how do you not go deaf from your tweets and regular speakers?? because I have just one 15" in a sealed box with just 400 watts and I have to turn down the treble on my HU and turn up the sub just a tad if I feel like bumpin or but then my sub drowns out my speakers to where its hard to hear the song. So when I have my system adjusted to sound perfect my ears start to hurt before the bass is loud enough for me!!! what should I do if I can do anything about it?