Audio-Concepts
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Posts posted by Audio-Concepts
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Up for sale is a new, un-used Cobra 800w power inverter. I bought to use with my EQ, but never hooked up. Comes with new cords, instruction manual.
Asking price is $60 shipped
Pm me if interested!
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I am looking for a Tru Technology H1 "Hammer". I have been looking for one for the last couple months but have been unlucky. As most of you know these amps are power houses, plus being an A/B class amp it will give the clarity and precision that I desire.
Thanks for the help!
Mike
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In my opinion, color match all the trim black and remove the side molding, car would look lower to the ground plus keep everything balanced! The lower valances on the bumpers and rockers always seem to stand out when they are black. Also maybe lightly smoke the taillights using a black tinting in the clear, it would really set the car off IMO!
But other than that good work, keep it up, you'll get better and better, the more you do work!
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As part of the SMD family, I couldnt be happier for you, Steve! Your vids, and skills have educated 1000's, and with this forum we all are able to share the same addiction, whether spending $100's or $1000's. I feel priveledged as a person to share this moment with the people who share this love of fabrication, skill, and car audio. With saying that, I thank you for giving me and others a place to share, learn, as well as teach!
CONGRADULATIONS STEVE!!!!
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Ive been detailing and painting cars for about 10 years, perfection is my goal!!
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If the paint just came off regardless off the grit used, prep work was for shit! If you can see original paint color, that means no sealer was used, which is something you need if doing a complete color change, not just blending and clearing.
Being as it is a flat paint, its most likely a single stage, another reason it could peal off of original color without sealer.
I would contact the painter and ask if he used sealer, if not, it will be a pain to respray. Because you will be chasing the feather edge so you dont have imprints from the damaged areas.
If he did use sealer, get the left over paint mix to the 4:1 ratio required ( 4 parts paint: 1 part activator) if too thick add 1 part reducer. When touching up the area use light coats, starting in the damage area and moving out every coat a couple inches until area is uniform and smooth. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT, use heavy coats, the area will look darker than the rest of the truck!
Hope that helps!
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For most paint restoring projects I usually go in these steps.
Products:
Dewalt variable speed buffer (a must have)
3M white foam pad (compound)
3M black foam pad (polish/glaze)
3M clay ball
3M compound
3M machine glaze
Wizards hand glaze
1. Wash and rinse car thoroughly (repeat)
2. Use fresh soap and water and clay ball complete car
3. Wash car again
4. Dry car completely (use air hose on all molding and jams)
5. Tape off all chrome and plastic
6. Go panel to panel with compound
7. Repeat till shine is deep
8. Go panel to panel with machine glaze
9. Repeat
10. Wash car again ( yes again)
11. Dry completely (use air gun)
12. Go over complete car with hand glaze (repeat if desired)
13. Use detailing brushes to get in all hard to reach places and finesse cleaning.
After all this you should have the shine and depth of a "like new" paint job!
I hope this helps, but I assure you, this is a full days job, but if executed properly, your finished product will certainly be worth it!
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As long as the lights are still visible, you rarely have issues! But I recommend more of a deep smoke look rather than fully black. A way to achieve this is mixing (dupont) 805 black tinting into clear coat! You can use a good amount say 1/8 cup and mix thoroughly. Apply light coats until you have receive desired darkness.
I would also recommend staying away from the VHT Tinting products, if not used correctly, lights will be too dark and then you will have issues.
With tinting clear coat, the lights will still be plenty transparent. You can also use the same method for headlights.
These are my taillights using this method!
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Look on ebay you can get the harness and dash kit for like $50-$60! Trust me its worth it in the long run, to run wires through the doors is a pain due to the clip in the door jam! Trust me been there done that!
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I had the same problem! I actually bought the amp bypass wiring harness, and hooked all my speaker wires up that way.
If you have the digital climate control, you must keep it plugged to the factory and then run wires from your constant and ground from there to the harness, then locate the yellow/black stripe wire, which is your ignition! It should turn on and off with no issue now!
You must buy the amp bypass harness in these cars, they are a pain in the ass!
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Scuff the panels with a red scotch bright pad thoroughly, then clean with wax and grease remover, then spray everything with a highbuild primer. After the,primer has cured, say 3-4 hours or just,wait over night, wet sand with 600 grit. After wet sanding clean with wax and grease again, and make sure you spray a sealer to prevent lifting. After you seal you wait about 20min and then go ahead and spray with whatever paint you choose.
Good Luck!!!!
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No problem, I have a degree from Wyotech for interior fabrication, so its like second nature.
Also if you have a fabric store in your area, like Jo-Anne Fabrics or something like that, they have headliner material at like 10-15 bucks per yard! Also they have industrial grade 3m spray adhesive, which one big can should be enough!
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When wrapping headliner first make sure all old material is off, that means all that left is the thin fiberglass base. Usually a wire brush is best for removing!
Then make sure material is right size!
Fold the material and do half at a time, use spray adhesive preferrably industrial and spray the mold and the back of the foam evenly and let tack up 5-10 minutes.
After its tacky but not dry start in the center of your fold and lightly work the material to the side, try not to leave finger prints or creases. Then repeat for the other side!
After both sides are dry and secure, flip the headliner over and trim so there is about 1-1 1/2" of overhang.
Now spray the adhesive along the edges of the headliner and let tack. After it has tacked start pulling the material over the,edge starting in the center and working towards the corners.
Once you have the sides done trim the corners and pull the material around the back and make sure it lays flat.
Now that it is mainly covered you can cut out the holes and pull material through like you did the edges, makes sure creases and rough edges are not there.
Let adhesive cure and then your ready to reinstall!
Hope the step by step helps!
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i think he got burn theres nothing on audiocontrol that ends with 2xs its a FAKE lol
Its a 2ch crossover/line driver! It has RCA/ speaker inputs!
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Most audiocontrol units have frequency chips that you can buy to adjust your hz! Mainly only in the analog units, digital not so much!
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when you try and drive threw a river with a stock hummer
i LOLed sooooo hard when i seen this guy, he was going to leave it and report it stolen, then me and a few buddys got him out!
if you look threw the vids theres a few where we drive threw the detroit river
In my view not a REAL Hummer!
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Not gonna hate, mainly because you deserve it after all the hard work! But voted yellow, due to all supercars should be bright and flashy!
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I always wanted MLFHNTR!
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A friend has gone missing! They have very little information on whereabouts, but have asked to help in any way possible! If you see her anywhere call authorities immediately, with any information available!
Thank You
Mike
ATTENTION: Amanda Bach has gone missing she attends IUN works at Quaker steak and lube and has not been seen since last night. If any one sees her call the police her car was found vacated at a shut down convenience store in WHEELER with the door open and her purse stil inside. They don't know where she was last seen. So be careful in portage and while on campus at IUN. **reposted with more details** her parents phone number is 219-763-7957 or call police!
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Youre lucky I like you Ray, I just saw this! Ughhhhh, you suck!!
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Im interested in the motors, I will let you know in time, finishing wedding payments first
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Enclosure looks solid! Looking forward to vids!!!!
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Im not worried about them being out of business, most every product I have ever ran from them has lasted years! I am looking into purchasing a mono amp for the new setup, and came across the 1200.1 Q series that will do 1200 watts @ 4 ohm bridged and running lower impedance usually means less stress on the amp. I dont need a huge amp, but one that is reliable, and considering this it pre Eric (Stevens) leaving I feel that I can trust it! Just looking for peoples opinions on the amps if they have used them!
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Awesome, thanks!
Alesis MEQ-230 (SOLD)
in SMD Garage Sale - New and Used NON Car Audio Items
Posted · Edited by Audio-Concepts
Up for sale is an Alesis MEQ-230 eq. These eq's have been used in both concert/band PA setups, as well as championship winning SQ competition vehicles.
Info:
Frequency Response: +0dB -1.5dB 20Hz to 20kHz Nominal Level: 0dBV Dynamic Range: 107dB A-weighted THD +
Noise: less than 0.005 @ 0dB 20Hz - 20kHz
Gain: 0dB (unity), EQ bypassed Max.
Voltage Gain: +12dB Indicator
LEDs: Power "on" - red, Signal Present - green, In/Out - green Peak Indicator - red (turns on when instantaneous level is +18dB)
Controls: 25 / 31 / 40 / 50 / 62 / 80 / 100 / 125 / 160 / 200 / 250 / 320 / 400/ 500 / 640 / 800 / 1k / 1.3k / 1.6k/ 2k / 2.5k / 3.15k / 4k / 5k / 6.2k / 8k / 10k / 13k / 16k / 20kHz level controls, In/Out switch, +/-12 dB Input Leve contro Range Of Boost/Cut: +/-12dB
Input Impedance: 500k ohms (unbalanced)
Output Impedance: 240 ohms (unbalanced)
Input/Output Jacks: 1/4" L/R, RCA L/R
Power Requirements: 120 VAC 60Hz,
UL and CSA Approved externa transformer Dimensions (W x H x D): 19 x 1.75 x 4 in
Price $100 shipped