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pumpfinder

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Posts posted by pumpfinder

  1. this ever happened to anyone?

    in Murphys Pub

    Posted

    When you get to the point of a good buzz ......the secret is to maintain not pound away.........it will make for a better nite

    This is true but sometimes I think people just don't pay attention and get smashed. I am not the person who drinks like I am in a competition but when I am having a great time I end up putting a good few away.

  3. this ever happened to anyone?

    in Murphys Pub

    Posted

    lol i no someone who got drunk and decided steal a taxi..who trip home the camera had him talking about nothing makeing no sense all way home, then he left the cab around the corner from his house, woke up on a beach in another state.

    id say he got drugged lol but he did drink alot, 2 big nights with 2 hour sleep between them :shrug:

    Thats some "Hangover" shyt lol.

  4. this ever happened to anyone?

    in Murphys Pub

    Posted

    I was drinking at a good friends of mine one night last summer and ended up hitting it pretty heavy. It wasn't intentional but nonetheless, I drank a dozen regular beer, a flask of rum (mixed), lost my mix, found a 26 of rum so I drank that straight over a period of about an hour and a half and well as you can imagine, I got pretty smashed. My friend called a cab, dragged me out and threw me in, told the cabbie where to go and gave me $15 for the ride. I remember waking up in the back of the cab, looking at the meter and seeing $8.xx (dunno what the cents were), I told the driver to pull over I got to throw up, when he came to a stop I took out $20 from my wallet plus the $15 given to me and gave it to the driver. I still to this day have no clue where I got out to but I remember throwing up on someone's front lawn and blacking out. When I came too I was walking down the sidewalk, fell off the curb and onto the trunk of a parked car. From there I have no clue how I got home, how I got inside or what time it was. When I woke up, I was perfect, no hangover nothing. Not even a slight headache or dry mouth. I got some details from my gf the next morning tho. Apparently I locked myself in the bathroom, threw up on EVERYTHING and curled up buttnekkid under a 2'x2' rug lol. She got me in bed and cleaned up the vomit (she's the best) :).

    What I learned from that experience is this: I love drinking lol. :drinks:

  6. SMD DD-1S ARE IN STOCK! 1 DAY TURN AROUND! 10/24/11

    in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics

    Posted · Edited by pumpfinder

    no joke, on AVERAGE its $90 bucks to ship to canada.

    i will talk to a fedex rep, now that i have spent THOUSANDS in shipping, maybe they can cut me a deal....but for now, thats the way it is.

    sorry!!

    if you wanna take a chance with USPS, its WAY cheaper - but their attitude is "oh well" if it doesnt show up. I will ship that way but i take no responsibility if it doesnt make it. Really, i trust everyone, but with that being the case, who is to say the RECIPIENT didnt keep it and say he never got it? I couldnt prove otherwise. So its no skin off my back to charge whatever fedex wants....as long as i know its going to make it and i have proof!

    I appreciate your replies Steve, both in the e-mail and here. Hopefully something gets worked out for international customers such as myself. I will think it through about shipping with USPS but like you said, its a risk not only for me but for you as well.

    Canadian distributers would be awesome for us northerners.

    Thanks again

  15. Alpine CDA-117 Subwoofer Level Question

    in Head Units-Processors and Eq's

    Posted

    Under the main audio menu function (same menu as fader, balance, etc..), there is a main subwoofer level option that I need some info on. The scale is 0 - 15, 0 being slightly audible (not off) and 15 being, well, cranked. No where have I found what this scale means. As in, does 0-15 indicate minus 15dB to 0dB or something along the lines of minus 12db to 0db to plus 3db (0-12-15 on the scale). I have been going under this impression (the plus 3db one) so I always have it on or under 12. Can someone please clarify this?

    Thanks in advance,

    Matt

  17. Setup Suggestions?

    in Member Rides & Builds -- Show off your whip, Show off your System!

    Posted

    If they are the new p2's then go for it. The old ones could only take 250 RMS and anymore I found they shit the bed. I had the old style p2's (grey cone) and for the price i got them, and being an entry level sub, they hit hard. Granted I never put full power to them for like 2 years and then when I got my T1000-1BD (1340RMS @ 1ohm and 750 @ 4) I ran them at 4 ohms, kept gains down and they hit way better and cleaner. I found the P2's to be good subs for i guess a starter system. Now the new ones will be even better.

  18. Multiple subs in different size enclosures?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    I'm going to agree with everyone who said why ask for advice and deny it. But besides that, if money is an issue, thats o.k. Everyone comes into trouble with funding. Take it from a University student. I am always broke. If I want something, I take my time and get it. You got to remember that car audio is a passion. It is one of the few hobbies that you receive full satisfaction from beginning to end. It's a learning process, and self medication if you will. Take your time and do it right. I know what it's like to have one thing done and your proud of it, just to have something else come to mind and diminish what you had. Everyone here understands that when you spend money and time on something, it comes with this sense of security. You don't want it taken away from you let alone have to tear it all apart and start over, but believe me, that is what happens when you are into this kind of stuff. You get over it and move on to something bigger and better. Custom work is unique. It's yours and it doesn't come over night. Take it slow, accept the advice we all give to you and go from there. If you have to, wait it out. That is the beauty of having such a large community here at SMD, we give each other ideas, help, and overall drive. That is why we all keep coming back. Do what you think is right, but don't ignore the answers to your question.

    As for your last post and why shouldn't you do it. Well just read above that. There are multiple answers right in front of you. The physics of how sound reacts in different enclosures is there in simple terms. You simply get different sounds which in overall essence, give a awkward sound that nobody will want. If you have switches for say two different amps that will power one set and the other the next set then fine, do it. But once you play both together you will see what everyone was talking about. Trail and error in this case is illogical. It will be just a waste of money to do two different sized enclosures.

    Now, thats my input and that is what you asked for. I do NOT want to seem like a asshole but you asked for advice, we gave it to you in clear terms, and you still proceeded to try and convince us that it was ok to do the enclosures.

  19. Vehicle light dimming

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    whatever you do don't put a walmart or autozone battery in your trunk. They give off gasses that can be deadly. Get a good xs battery like a 2400 or 3100.

    This is also a very good point. Thanks for bringing it up Alex cause I meant to say it but forgot. More or less, it's not worth getting a battery that is not meant for car audio. Ones like XS, Kinetik, Shuriken, etc are all designed to be spill-proof and won't leak. Anything else is for under the hood. Plus, walmart and autozone or w/e are not meant for the stresses that we put on batteries. They will most likely just die or do something stupid like catch on fire or something :P. Stick to specific use batteries and you will be fine.

  20. Vehicle light dimming

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    Big 3, got it.

    Do a big 3 first. Depending on how much current you are drawing, the Big 3 will help but will not diminish the problem. Personally I would do the big 3, if the drop is still a good bit, upgrade the battery under hood and a HO alternator. Doing just the battery will help but maybe not as much as you wish. The only way to get "rid" of voltage drop is a solid electrical system. If your like me and don't have much money because of university or whatever, developing a solid charging system is hard. It takes time and money. For now all I got done is Big 3 but Im still getting mad voltage drop. Therefore, I had to turn down gains until I can afford the HO alternator and battery(ies). I would rather turn down gains and listen to my system a bit lower then risk dropping below 12.5v possibly zomping out my amps. If you want to leave the gains up a bit you can rev up to say around 1500 - 1800 RPMS and that will help keep a steady voltage. That is what I had to do until I just said fuck it and turned down my gains haha. Sorry about the novel.

    I don't know what my voltage measurement is however I do have a stinger voltage meter coming in the mail so I'll definitely have a better look at what is going on with my electrical system. I'll definitely look into the big 3 a bit more and start ordering the parts I need. I have also been looking into alternators, but like you, I'm not made of money so I don't really want to dish out $600 on top of everything else I'm buying. As for revving the engine up, the dimming is still fairly noticeable so a HO alt would probably be best.

    If you have a multimeter or a separate voltmeter, you can check your voltage drop now. If you don't, you will need one to setup the Stinger voltmeter. For you where your running a digital amp that makes 1200w, you should be good with the Big 3 for now. Just to get you by. But, like I said, a good charging system is a must if your running any sort of aftermarket accessories.

  21. Multiple subs in different size enclosures?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    If you use two different enclosures, you will get different sounds. They shouldn't cancel but one set will hit lows better and blah blah blah. I would say, chop cut rebuild. Take the 15s out and build ONE box. Stacking boxes sounds like a mess anyways. If I were you, I would run the 2 15s you have now until you can get the $$$ or w/e your waiting on and build one enclosure for the wall. But thats just me.

  22. Vehicle light dimming

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    Do a big 3 first. Depending on how much current you are drawing, the Big 3 will help but will not diminish the problem. Personally I would do the big 3, if the drop is still a good bit, upgrade the battery under hood and a HO alternator. Doing just the battery will help but maybe not as much as you wish. The only way to get "rid" of voltage drop is a solid electrical system. If your like me and don't have much money because of university or whatever, developing a solid charging system is hard. It takes time and money. For now all I got done is Big 3 but Im still getting mad voltage drop. Therefore, I had to turn down gains until I can afford the HO alternator and battery(ies). I would rather turn down gains and listen to my system a bit lower then risk dropping below 12.5v possibly zomping out my amps. If you want to leave the gains up a bit you can rev up to say around 1500 - 1800 RPMS and that will help keep a steady voltage. That is what I had to do until I just said fuck it and turned down my gains haha. Sorry about the novel.

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