pumpfinder

This is true but sometimes I think people just don't pay attention and get smashed. I am not the person who drinks like I am in a competition but when I am having a great time I end up putting a good few away.

LOL. So true. I was riding around on my cousins scooter the summer and ended up passing by a couple chicks I knew, it was embarrassing as hell lol.

Thats some "Hangover" shyt lol.

I was drinking at a good friends of mine one night last summer and ended up hitting it pretty heavy. It wasn't intentional but nonetheless, I drank a dozen regular beer, a flask of rum (mixed), lost my mix, found a 26 of rum so I drank that straight over a period of about an hour and a half and well as you can imagine, I got pretty smashed. My friend called a cab, dragged me out and threw me in, told the cabbie where to go and gave me $15 for the ride. I remember waking up in the back of the cab, looking at the meter and seeing $8.xx (dunno what the cents were), I told the driver to pull over I got to throw up, when he came to a stop I took out $20 from my wallet plus the $15 given to me and gave it to the driver. I still to this day have no clue where I got out to but I remember throwing up on someone's front lawn and blacking out. When I came too I was walking down the sidewalk, fell off the curb and onto the trunk of a parked car. From there I have no clue how I got home, how I got inside or what time it was. When I woke up, I was perfect, no hangover nothing. Not even a slight headache or dry mouth. I got some details from my gf the next morning tho. Apparently I locked myself in the bathroom, threw up on EVERYTHING and curled up buttnekkid under a 2'x2' rug lol. She got me in bed and cleaned up the vomit (she's the best) . What I learned from that experience is this: I love drinking lol.

Whats the specs on the box?

I appreciate your replies Steve, both in the e-mail and here. Hopefully something gets worked out for international customers such as myself. I will think it through about shipping with USPS but like you said, its a risk not only for me but for you as well. Canadian distributers would be awesome for us northerners. Thanks again

I live in Newfoundland and have no friends/family outside of here. I fired off an email to [email protected], hopefully someone will help me obtain this product for a better shipping price. Damn you FedEx

Today is just not a good day. One of my friends has passed away not 4 hours ago from a massive car crash. I should have stayed in bed and just sleep so this day passes faster. To the loved ones of Dans and my friend's family, our hearts go out to you with love.

Anyway to ship to Canada for cheaper? When I do up a quote its $99.86 with International Economy and $107.13 with Priority. I really want one of these but I can't justify paying that much for shipping when the unit is $139.99!!

Wax is a very talented individual. I have been listening to him for years.

in series, there is more current which in return, adds more heat. The higher heat reduces the efficiency of the voice coil. EDIT: In conclusion, what Blownengine said.

Sorry about the confusion and thanks Skippy. This is the reason why I posted it, because I am not that good at configuring wires. All I did was goto 12volt and said I have 2 Dual 1 woofers and it spit an image back but with voice coils in series. I want to see if I can get them in parallel. Heres a little better picture, well I think it is haha.

Thats the same for me but I dont think i ever put it to 15 just because i dont see maxing something out as being safe. I usually keep it at 12 for letting it hit hard and like 2-4 for daily. Im just wondering what 15 is actually equal to (like what I said about, +3dB or 0dB or w/e.

As of right now I have: Voice Coils wired in Series and Woofers in Parallel. What I want is Voice Coils in Parallel and Subs in Series. Is the below image of wiring going to allow me to have a 1 OHM load and achieve VC in Parallel and Subs in Series? Thanks for your time, Matt

Under the main audio menu function (same menu as fader, balance, etc..), there is a main subwoofer level option that I need some info on. The scale is 0 - 15, 0 being slightly audible (not off) and 15 being, well, cranked. No where have I found what this scale means. As in, does 0-15 indicate minus 15dB to 0dB or something along the lines of minus 12db to 0db to plus 3db (0-12-15 on the scale). I have been going under this impression (the plus 3db one) so I always have it on or under 12. Can someone please clarify this? Thanks in advance, Matt

Charlie says I'm winning

If they are the new p2's then go for it. The old ones could only take 250 RMS and anymore I found they shit the bed. I had the old style p2's (grey cone) and for the price i got them, and being an entry level sub, they hit hard. Granted I never put full power to them for like 2 years and then when I got my T1000-1BD (1340RMS @ 1ohm and 750 @ 4) I ran them at 4 ohms, kept gains down and they hit way better and cleaner. I found the P2's to be good subs for i guess a starter system. Now the new ones will be even better.

I'm going to agree with everyone who said why ask for advice and deny it. But besides that, if money is an issue, thats o.k. Everyone comes into trouble with funding. Take it from a University student. I am always broke. If I want something, I take my time and get it. You got to remember that car audio is a passion. It is one of the few hobbies that you receive full satisfaction from beginning to end. It's a learning process, and self medication if you will. Take your time and do it right. I know what it's like to have one thing done and your proud of it, just to have something else come to mind and diminish what you had. Everyone here understands that when you spend money and time on something, it comes with this sense of security. You don't want it taken away from you let alone have to tear it all apart and start over, but believe me, that is what happens when you are into this kind of stuff. You get over it and move on to something bigger and better. Custom work is unique. It's yours and it doesn't come over night. Take it slow, accept the advice we all give to you and go from there. If you have to, wait it out. That is the beauty of having such a large community here at SMD, we give each other ideas, help, and overall drive. That is why we all keep coming back. Do what you think is right, but don't ignore the answers to your question. As for your last post and why shouldn't you do it. Well just read above that. There are multiple answers right in front of you. The physics of how sound reacts in different enclosures is there in simple terms. You simply get different sounds which in overall essence, give a awkward sound that nobody will want. If you have switches for say two different amps that will power one set and the other the next set then fine, do it. But once you play both together you will see what everyone was talking about. Trail and error in this case is illogical. It will be just a waste of money to do two different sized enclosures. Now, thats my input and that is what you asked for. I do NOT want to seem like a asshole but you asked for advice, we gave it to you in clear terms, and you still proceeded to try and convince us that it was ok to do the enclosures.

This is also a very good point. Thanks for bringing it up Alex cause I meant to say it but forgot. More or less, it's not worth getting a battery that is not meant for car audio. Ones like XS, Kinetik, Shuriken, etc are all designed to be spill-proof and won't leak. Anything else is for under the hood. Plus, walmart and autozone or w/e are not meant for the stresses that we put on batteries. They will most likely just die or do something stupid like catch on fire or something . Stick to specific use batteries and you will be fine.

I don't know what my voltage measurement is however I do have a stinger voltage meter coming in the mail so I'll definitely have a better look at what is going on with my electrical system. I'll definitely look into the big 3 a bit more and start ordering the parts I need. I have also been looking into alternators, but like you, I'm not made of money so I don't really want to dish out $600 on top of everything else I'm buying. As for revving the engine up, the dimming is still fairly noticeable so a HO alt would probably be best. If you have a multimeter or a separate voltmeter, you can check your voltage drop now. If you don't, you will need one to setup the Stinger voltmeter. For you where your running a digital amp that makes 1200w, you should be good with the Big 3 for now. Just to get you by. But, like I said, a good charging system is a must if your running any sort of aftermarket accessories.

If you use two different enclosures, you will get different sounds. They shouldn't cancel but one set will hit lows better and blah blah blah. I would say, chop cut rebuild. Take the 15s out and build ONE box. Stacking boxes sounds like a mess anyways. If I were you, I would run the 2 15s you have now until you can get the $$$ or w/e your waiting on and build one enclosure for the wall. But thats just me.

Do a big 3 first. Depending on how much current you are drawing, the Big 3 will help but will not diminish the problem. Personally I would do the big 3, if the drop is still a good bit, upgrade the battery under hood and a HO alternator. Doing just the battery will help but maybe not as much as you wish. The only way to get "rid" of voltage drop is a solid electrical system. If your like me and don't have much money because of university or whatever, developing a solid charging system is hard. It takes time and money. For now all I got done is Big 3 but Im still getting mad voltage drop. Therefore, I had to turn down gains until I can afford the HO alternator and battery(ies). I would rather turn down gains and listen to my system a bit lower then risk dropping below 12.5v possibly zomping out my amps. If you want to leave the gains up a bit you can rev up to say around 1500 - 1800 RPMS and that will help keep a steady voltage. That is what I had to do until I just said fuck it and turned down my gains haha. Sorry about the novel.

So it seems that the video, once located on youtube, has infringment issues but I found this version on the National Turk (quick Google ). For those who have not yet seen this. Below is the link: National Turk - Chris Medina

If the same were to happen to me there's no way i would be able to go on national television and talk about it. Let alone sing. I have the upmost imperialistic view towards his strength and can only wish to even come close to his caliber.

I ordered 2 SSD 12's on January 6th, 2010 and received them January 25th, 2010. So like 2.5 weeks. Also I live in the gawd damn armpit of North America... Newfoundland, Canada. Don't know where it is. Look on Google Maps. It's a trot.