kmalinich

exactly. post back if you have questions about using a digital multimeter... we will be happy to assist (well at least i will be)

measure the box. length, width, height.. then the port... height, width, and depth. stick the tape measure it in it and see how deep it is. then pull out one of the subs and measure the thickness of the wood. then report back with numbers.. i will give you the frequency that it is tuned to.

alright then. verdict reached. get good options on the subwoofer (you're paying good money already...) and get that BXI2010D. make your box is up to par, along with at least some sort of electrical upgrade... even at the least the big 3 helps a little...

hmm. that's interesting. well cone area beats everything every time.. there's just no substitute for it.. just like cubes in a big block chevy... so i'm gonna go with 4 SEX on 2 t1000s. design an awesome box for it and you'll be movin good.

your 2 12s take the same power as the 2 15s in the same series because they use the same coil and the same magnet. (usually, but I don't know about RF) and the 2 SXX would be louder than the 2 SEX woofers but only if you had the power to push them with. on that t1000 the 2 SEX would be louder.

well what options are on the sub?

a hair trick? lol. you'd need to move a shitload of air. that's what a hairtrick is... the hair floats in the window because there is so much air moving in and out of the vehicle window so quickly. you'd need like ... 4 15s AT LEAST in a really well designed ported box and a shitload of power (8k+) and more electrical upgrades.

i just did it. great idea. i'm so sick of them. now we just need the OP to reply to the questions.. might make some headway on this thread....

1) subsonic filter - set it to the tuning frequency of the box. or just a little bit lower... 2) burn the 50hz tone track on the cd a bunch of times. like make it track 1, and track 2, and track 3, and track 4.. etc...

is that sub dual voice coil? your coil leads could be coming off on one coil or something.

bad grounds? fuse blown? amp is or is not turning on? bad power wire? bad RCAs? bad HU RCA output? battery terminal issues? lol i just kinda realized how many points of failure a good system has...

is your budget for just the subs themselves $600? or your whole system? and offtopic for a sec... wouldn't it be great if someone stickied a thread in general audio saying: "before posting or asking for help, make sure you include your vehicle year, make, and model; your electrical setup; and your budget. and then we'd have to define all those terms. anyways... /offtopic

In the more recent GM vehicles... the HU is responsible for creating the door chimes and turn signal sounds.... plays them through the speakers... so with a new HU you need a "harness" that will play your door chimes and turn signal sounds for you instead of the HU. this "harness" is actually a small box that sits behind your aftermarket HU and also functions as an adapter for the factory harness. the box is what actually makes the chimes and sounds, instead of your speakers. it makes them a little quieter and they sound different, but you never hear them anyway because with your new system you're gonna have it turned all the way up all the time anyway :D

thats wicked. but if instead of a couple runs of 1\0 you did one run of 4\0 or even 5\0... you could get a fat ass PVC pipe and mount it to the bottom of the car... and run the 4\0 through that. bingo super current and super protection and super easy (albeit expensive and time comsuming - but easy) install.

that setup looks effin sweet.. no like... i love a good fiberglass job... and even if you're not a computer guy if you can figure out how to post and to post pictures your already way ahead of a bunch of people on here. now.. you're asking what RE subs you should get? and if i read that right.. it's 50" wide, 31" deep, and 21" tall that you have to work with...raw that's about 18 cubes... hehe more than enough space. are you gonna upgrade your sub amp with the new subs and new box?

i was waiting for it. i knew it was coming

yeah, i'm off only 500 rms but i have a perfect setup and electrical... so only a 500 rms amp, but no losses through RCAs, power wire, terminals, bad grounds, low voltage, dirty signal...... so typical high school punk 1500rms = my 500rms. it really surprises kids

yeeeea dem sundownz... you ever clamp or oscope it? see what it makes right before clip?

Here goes... I just bought some sweet RF 1\0 battery terminals.. because I NEEDED them bad. The side post situation GM invented is some bull-shit. I lost the original side bolt for the positive terminal .. so I had a makeshift solution in there. To make matters worse, the two stock positive terminals (starter and alt, and positive to car) are really rough and don't put together a lot of surface area. To the story... So I'm sitting at a red light intersection after school a couple days ago, 1st in line waiting to pull out onto the main road. There were about 20-30 cars and 2 school buses behind me too, full of kids. (It's not a normal intersection, it's a right turn only Michigan-only deal) A few other kids were playing their systems and ~80% of the cars behind me were kids from my high school so I was like, what the hell. I'll break the rule and join in for once. (I usually bump VERY responsibly) So I get maybe 30 seconds into What's the Difference by Dr. Dre (42Hz ) and all of a sudden, I lost all power. No system, no lights, no ignition.. nothing. So I slid it into park and tried to give it a couple cranks, but nothing. I couldn't even throw the hazards. Meanwhile, the light turns green. I get out and pop the hood, and sure enough the + bolt is just laying there outside the battery. Goes to show you can't half-ass anything in car audio. While I'm under the hood looking at it, trying to decide if I should just put it back in by hand, one of the bus drivers got out of the bus and comes over to me. Imagine this 70 year old evil looking lady... "TYPICAL TEENAGERS WITH THEIR STEREOS AND PIECE OF CRAP CARS. ALWAYS BREAK DOWN AND ALWAYS ANNOY ME!" (for the record, I have 72,000 mi on my car and 0 rust, mechanically and cosmetically perfect condition) She kept going but that's all I can quote. So apparently my HU didn't lose it's memory yet... because when I got the positive bolt back in, car and the system came back on at top volume. Just by coincidence, I was looking at the 70 year old bitch when it did. If I could have got her reaction on video.................she jumped right out of her skin, and did this move that looked like something from the Thriller dance. It was priceless. Her eyes got all wide for a second.. then she yells "TYPICAL!!" again and struts back to her bus. I got in and it started.. I sped away... Never forget that. But I feel like I gave teenagers a bad name more than we already get =( when I don't ever do anything to perpetuate it. Just my luck. So did I do it? Was it a Cool Story Bro? lol

yeah .. actually fully loaded... 2k (clean) would be legit. but by the way he talks i'm thinkin he maybe doesn't know a whole lot .. so if he orders them stock and drops 2k on em and jacks the gain, with stock electrical.... kaboom?

i think that's no where near enough power. and you have at most a 150 watt amp. but then again you take into account...efficiency and input voltage and other factors... she's probably putting out about 110-130 watts. dynamic, peak, music, any watt rating that isn't "RMS" is bullshit. every time oh.. and the subs are in the box... so you can't get the model.. use your brain. TAKE THEM OUT OF THE BOX. OH MY GOD, REVELATION!!

is there something i'm not seeing here? i mean i know Fi's are some hardcore woofers but he could run that shit at 2x rated RMS with that amp... he could save a couple bucks and get something that does like 1200 RMS at 1 ohm and make it superclean power. or am i wrong?

umm depends on the voice coils you get, and if you wire them in series or in parallel. Dual 2 would get you either 4 ohms (series) or 1 ohm. (series Dual 1 would get you either 2 ohms (series) or .5 ohm. (series) (you can't run a .5 ohm load that on that amp - not many other amps either, for that matter). Do you understand how ohm load affects power output of an amp? a Fi BL is rated 1000w RMS, doesn't matter the voice coil setup. that amp does 650 RMS at 4 ohms, 1300 RMS at 2 ohms, and 2000 RMS at 1 ohm.... so you see where it's a bit overkill. unless you're running more than one Fi BL, of course....

great seller... no BS.. got it all ready to go for shipping literally a half hour after I PM'd him about a product... detailed pics and description ... friendly, easy to work with... shipped 1st thing in the AM and i have no doubt it's gonna be great when it gets here!

thanks guys.. i think i'm gonna go with the xscorpion ones.. this GM side post bullshit it killin me. today at an intersection...literally, the positive fell out of the battery. no lights, system, nothing. and there was 20 cars and a school bus behind me. can't even throw the hazards...and i was bumpin before that and i get out, pop the hood, and its just laying there. i plug it back in, the HU fires back up, (ignition was still on) and it must not have ran out of power yet.. because it started playing again. i was like fuck these shitty terminals on the side of my optima.. its just disrespectful. /coolstorybr edit: getting RF terminals. thanks everyone tho...