MOUZEBINN

That's what I wanted to hear, thing 3 4" ports would be adequate?

Nope, its a straight wall you have to basically remove the seat to get access to the trunk, thats why I was thinking of putting 3 4" ports

Also I know that video says its last month but it's really like 6 months go so I've had a lot of time to rethink my system... Also anyone with a grand prix that doesnt have a fold down seat that has any ideas how to maximize air flow in the car without sacraficing my rear seat my ears are open!

This was my old setup: Yes when you're done laughing you will now realize why I'm upgrading lol what I've done since that video: 2 x Infinity Reference 6x9's 2 x Infinity Reference 6x5's 5 Gauge Power Cable as opposed to my 8 Big III I'm going to start posting videos and images of my new upgrade that's going to span over a month should be complete by january my plans for this build are going to start off with a single 15" Fi SSD Copper Coils D1 with a single ported box tuned. I'm also going to be doing some heavy modding to my car making me capible of walling off my rear car eventually by january I'm going to have a Hifonics 1600RMS @ 1 OHM and two of the SSD 15's. Now I realize I'm not running BTL's or anything special but this is a big project for me that i'd like to share... Note i'm going from two Kicker COMP 15's in a sealed box with a single amplifier to two 15 FI SSD with a 1600RMS expect pictures for the initial setup next week so keep posted for updates, also I'm going to be doing all of this in a Pontiac Grand Prix SE 1997. I'll also cover how I will be doing my wiring as well as taking suggestions.

what movie is that from in ur avatar?

ok... so i mean, what does that mean?? i should go with the CVX? peope keep putting on denominators in that make me rethink... stock SSD on 600RMS vs CVX on 600RMS it's that easy...which one?

ebay new 1 year warranty factory sealed from an online vendor.

ALPINE MRP-600 for now true 600RMS @ 2 OHM getting a Hifonics Brutus 1600RMS @ 1OHM when I get a second 15" Fi SSD or watever I choose

im sorry im so annoying guys I just need to know because im ordering TOMMOROW... :-/ if even 2 more people say Fi SSD un-loaded over the CVX i know what im getting...

so nobody answered STOCK SSD with copper coil vs Kicker CVX?? still worth it for lows? also, please do explain to me the dB of a subwoofer...

im not going fully loaded thoug... just getting the copper coils i suppose didnt want to spend over $200 on a subwoofer since i need to build a box too and only have $250 to spend... including shipping. Is it still as good as the CVX lows wise if i dont get the addons and i get the copper coil? for $250 i woulda just gotten the 1000RMS Q lol

wow Fi has really outdone themselves really? it gets louder and cleaner than the SSD for real?? i mean honestly, if I get the same output from you guys in this comparison then im going SSD for sure i just wanna make sure, the specs on the CVX are a lot better but you guys would know more than me... says 92.5dB on the CVX and 1000RMS while the Fi only gets 88dB and 800RMS?? hmmm

Ok i had a topic called Kicker L5 vs. Fi SSD 15" well now I see I can get a 15" Kicker CVX for the same price... so my new question for straight SPL and overall quality Fi SSD or Kicker CVX?

did you figure out what amp you're going to be running? also go with sundown, for the price the amp is much better.

I promise you won't find a better speaker than a Infinity... go with them you'll be happy, I recommend a seperate 2 channel 500RMS amp for them though as they take 250RMS easily.

Nah man that box looks tight... You did a good job, what are the specs of it?? I've always wondered how you tune 3 subs into 1 box.. also is it really a good idea to invert the middle sub, seems like it might ruin some of the air movement.

still nobody has answered my question about the port design for airflow from trunk to front car... right now my bass is probably half what it should be because my rear seat is like a steel enclosure with no holes/leaks... if i put my hands over my 6x9's in my back window i can feel immense air pressure coming from there, my seat literally shakes 2-3 inches etc.. i need all hat pressure to come forth!!! will cutting holes in my rear panel do that?

This gives me hope... I can do a big 3 no problem, hell I might even be able to do the deep cycle / new battery thing if my paycheck turns out... If I did that whats the chances I can run 1500RMS?

So I can just run my current battery, grab another battery throw it in my trunk, wire it up (yes i know how to) then put the deep cycle in the back as well?? or is the deep cycle the 2nd battery? im not really sure what deep cycle is... how much would the big 3 help also? i have like 10ft of 0/1 gauge lying around I could do it with.

thank god thats just what I wanted to hear mmm tax returns need to hurry up lol So you're saying ai need two batteries now?? lol thats above my budget... :-/ sadly, damn I need 1500RMS to be happy! argh

Sorry for my newbieness whats a deep cycle?? and how much does a good battery run? heh, im not mechanically inclined on auto part pricing... link me to a good battery that wont cost as much as a new alternator lol also any thoughts on my port design for my rear? it'll be pretty much like having a hatcback with removable rear support also.. batteries are like $150 for a HO one... and a deep cycle is upwards of $100... thats $250 i mights as well get the 220AMP alternator at that price... theres really no way my car can run 1500RMS with a 105AMP alt?

bump slow morning

I have a 97 Grand Prix SE 3.8 V6 250HP it's all stock.. I believe my alt. is a 105AMP right now im running a 600RMS MRP from alpine and I get decent light dimming, I was looking online I can get a 220AMP alt for my but it's going to set me back $300 (last resort guys..) im wondering if my car will handle upto 1500WATTS im going to be running two Fi 15" SSD's @ 750RMS each (running the BP power addon and copper coil.) Is my 105AMP big enough for that or what?? whats the cheapest upgrade next to the alt. to get running 1500WATTS stable daily? Also, my seat doesnt fold down, im not about to take it out because I LIKE having a car for the reason I can have 4-5 people in it... I was looking seats will cost $100+ and thats if I can find one in my area (looking like false hope) I was going to cute 4 holes in my back speaker panel (between my 6x9's) and insert these babies: http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Port-T...9875&sr=1-4 I figure that will give me about 24" around port in my rear... that should be the equivalent of putting my seat down or at LEAST having an armrest that folds down... Now my only concern is that the port will be facing upwards towards my window, so should I face my subs upwards or towards the trunk like I am already doing?? thanks everyone for your help

I was pretty aware that CVR's would be louder...but if its not much louder than the SSD seems like my type of sub.. to be honest.. So basically more cone area + rated power = better than less cone area with with more rated power not met? seems like that is right, but everyone here is pointing me to the SSD even at 600RMS Im just assuming that a single 15" thats 5x more RMS and quality also newer with a better vented box as opposed to two crappy COMPS will be louder... it just makes sense to me.. ive heard single 15's bang louder than two 15's just because they are better and more RMS

I know nobody can tell me how loud it will be, but theres a consistancy with more subwoofer comparisions... will a single Fi SSD be louder or sound louder than two comps etc... that the type of comparision im looking for. on average with full RMS how does a single SSD perform in SPL what dB do they obtain? also one thing I never got about subwoofers... sensitivity dB is that the dB they put out?? how would you measure that if you had two subwoofers?