imupabove

hi. me and my buddy tinted my car. its been 2 days now. their are bubbles and lines, that i dont know where it came from. he said it will go away in a couple of days. im going to have to re-do everything anyways because i dont think he cleaned the windows very well :[. or didnt get all the liquids out between the tint and window well. not bad for a first timer though but i am not happy with it. can someone please tell me base one these, what you think we did wrong? on one of those pics the tint is crumpled due to anger (not me). i should of paid attention of what he was doing, i thought he knew exactly what he was doing. oh well we learn from our mistakes. ANY tips are appreciated! thank you. here are some pics... . 20% fronts 5% rears this piece is definitely going to replaced

its only 10% copper is that okay?

i have this same wire but its 4 gauge. the jacket isnt flexible but bother.

hey. is this wire any good for the big 3? its Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) is made up of 90% Aluminum and 10% Copper. its pretty cheap for 20 feet. or should i go for another brand. thanks. http://cgi.ebay.com/KnuKonceptz-Metallic-Blue-1-0-Gauge-Power-Wire-20-Feet_W0QQitemZ380221079714QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5886f140a2

i dont have a steamer. lol. how bout black trash bags and simple green for the rear tint? i dont think im going to have problems removing the tint on the doors. and yes the rear window has defrosters.

hello. anyone know the best way to remove the rear tint of a car and all 4 windows.? i have a 93 camry. i dont have a heat gun. maybe i can use something that is laying around the house?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350325000274&_trksid=p2761.l1259 this says "punch bass" on it. the seller said it will work.

power series. it says "punch bass" on the knob.

there are 6 leads on the cord and on the bass knob.

no top is just came like this.

I got a RF 1000BD, the person who sold me the amp gave me this bass knob but with no cord. so i bought the cord at Walmart, it was just an ordinary phone cord. i hooked it up and everything, the bass knob didnt work. so my question is, wrong knob or might be the cord? i was thinking i might need some kind of special cord from the actual company. thanks. here are the pics of the knob: pic 1 pic 2

hell yes. you know whats weird? i bypass my EQ and i was just using my headunit, the amp was a effing joke. BUT when i had my EQ installed and all and i had the sub volume up to like %80, it was really loud. i dont want to use my EQ for now b/c it is giving me problems. but now with just the headunit its effing sucks. that is why i want to use that bass knob.

yeah same here. im not going to open it up. about that bass knob. can i just use a ordinary telephone cord, 6-pins one? because the seller threw in the knob but it doesnt look like the one from the manual (oval shaped). and its more smaller than one i showed you, the first knob from ebay. the knob doesnt even work. not sure if its the knob itself or the cord.

I bought this used on eBay. works fine. but their is this whining noise coming from the amp when its on. its very annoying when volume is low. normal? help please!

right now my electrical is not all that stock batt/alt and the big 3 in 4 gauge. i dont want to wire anything to .5, you said it will stress out my electrical system, that true? thanks.

600rms/1200max, both are dual 2 ohms.

im looking at the following Hifonics amps: BXI1210D, BXI1610D, and BXI2010D. i need an amp to power 2 12" T1's. i heard Hifonics overrate their amps? but which amp will be a good match for my subs? open to any other amps, my limit is $200-260 on an amp. thanks.

having a second batt., will that stress out my stock alt? or should i just invest in a HO alt?

haha that is what i like about the cap it had that readout. yeah im planning on getting those stinger meters.

sup people. i got a Rockford 1 farad digital capacitor (RFC1D). i had it for a while now. im still getting dimming and voltage drops, not really sure if it helped me a little or not. people are saying it does more harm than it can help me, true? i have a buddy that wants to buy it and i was thinking on saving up on the electrical, maybe a HC600 in the trunk? what you ladies/fellers think?

about that RE calc., isnt it only for 1 subwooder box? i want to make one for 2 R's.

hey thanks people for all your advice, i really do appreciate it. i want to double baffle it. i can go to Lowe's or Home Depot and i think they can do the cut outs. and all have to do is the gluing and the holes.i honestly dont know the steps on building a box. can someone tell me the steps in detail please? do you guys use that RE calculator to build your boxes? thanks.

hey just wondering. you think a T1 12" can take 1000 rms easy or how much you think it can take daily. thanks.

oh oh yeah thanks for the tip. i wasnt born yesterday .

OR! opti1232d with that box (avatar) powered by a opti1400d. i can get this for cheap right now. their is this guy, hes willing to trade my type r and my box for 2 type r 12's (dual 2 ohm) with a cheap prefab box. and im planning to get a custom box for those two. what do you think? anyone im open to any opinions