imupabove
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Posts posted by imupabove
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its only 10% copper is that okay?
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i have this same wire but its 4 gauge. the jacket isnt flexible but bother.
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hey. is this wire any good for the big 3? its Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) is made up of 90% Aluminum and 10% Copper. its pretty cheap for 20 feet. or should i go for another brand. thanks.
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do you have a rear window defroster??
if you have the defroster DO NOT use a blade on it.
we used a steamer, hold it on the tint and itll peel like butter.
i dont have a steamer. lol. how bout black trash bags and simple green for the rear tint? i dont think im going to have problems removing the tint on the doors. and yes the rear window has defrosters.
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hello. anyone know the best way to remove the rear tint of a car and all 4 windows.? i have a 93 camry. i dont have a heat gun. maybe i can use something that is laying around the house?
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thats your problem that controller is for punch amps only
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350325000274&_trksid=p2761.l1259
this says "punch bass" on it. the seller said it will work.
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what series amp, power or punch
power series. it says "punch bass" on the knob.
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Count the metal leads there are 6, phone wires only have 4! I bet your problem is the cable. And don't try a cat 5 cable either there are 8 in them.
there are 6 leads on the cord and on the bass knob.
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Is there no top to the knob?
no top is just came like this.
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I got a RF 1000BD, the person who sold me the amp gave me this bass knob but with no cord. so i bought the cord at Walmart, it was just an ordinary phone cord. i hooked it up and everything, the bass knob didnt work. so my question is, wrong knob or might be the cord? i was thinking i might need some kind of special cord from the actual company. thanks.
here are the pics of the knob:
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Besides the noise Do you like the amp?
hell yes. you know whats weird? i bypass my EQ and i was just using my headunit, the amp was a effing joke. BUT when i had my EQ installed and all and i had the sub volume up to like %80, it was really loud. i dont want to use my EQ for now b/c it is giving me problems. but now with just the headunit its effing sucks. that is why i want to use that bass knob.
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I run my system so loud that I really don't even notice it.
yeah same here. im not going to open it up.
about that bass knob. can i just use a ordinary telephone cord, 6-pins one? because the seller threw in the knob but it doesnt look like the one from the manual (oval shaped). and its more smaller than one i showed you, the first knob from ebay. the knob doesnt even work. not sure if its the knob itself or the cord.
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I bought this used on eBay. works fine. but their is this whining noise coming from the amp when its on. its very annoying when volume is low. normal? help please!
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Just to say, wiring to .5 ohms might work and if you have enough electrical to keep the voltage from dropping you should be ok. if you're only pushing 1600 or so it wont require that much electrical. but my point here is this:
wiring down to .5 might work , but it will put a larger strain on the amp and more importantly it might VOID the warranty, and if the amp does fail at .5 ohm you might be sol. you might very well be fine running the amp like that, but its just something to keep in mind about voiding the warranty. at least check it out so you know where you stand if you decide to go the .5 route
hope this helps
P4Killer
right now my electrical is not all that stock batt/alt and the big 3 in 4 gauge. i dont want to wire anything to .5, you said it will stress out my electrical system, that true? thanks.
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hifonics amps are really good for the money. My buddy has the BXI1610D amp for his 2 10" type r's 2x2ohm wired at .5 ohms and the amp works like a champ. It hits hard and clean. It depends on what your subs are rated for and what ohms they are.
600rms/1200max, both are dual 2 ohms.
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im looking at the following Hifonics amps: BXI1210D, BXI1610D, and BXI2010D. i need an amp to power 2 12" T1's. i heard Hifonics overrate their amps? but which amp will be a good match for my subs? open to any other amps, my limit is $200-260 on an amp. thanks.
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having a second batt., will that stress out my stock alt? or should i just invest in a HO alt?
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Caps do absolutly nothing to help unless you have little(.3-.5) to no voltage drop, if you have no drop it could help to smooth out peaks in music I.E. a drum Kick etc...... I would sell it, most people that arent very deep into audio will think it will help, so it wont be hard to unload. And an HC600-1400 would help alot more than a cap ever would.
And if you want to keep it for the voltage readout, just go get a stinger volt meter from Darvex instead.
haha that is what i like about the cap it had that readout. yeah im planning on getting those stinger meters.
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sup people. i got a Rockford 1 farad digital capacitor (RFC1D). i had it for a while now. im still getting dimming and voltage drops, not really sure if it helped me a little or not. people are saying it does more harm than it can help me, true? i have a buddy that wants to buy it and i was thinking on saving up on the electrical, maybe a HC600 in the trunk? what you ladies/fellers think?
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yeah man use the RE calc and just double check all of the dimensions, get it cut at lowes (even tho the might ef up by a little bit and charge you per cut)
Or
craigslist the tools/pawn shop, spend $100 bucks on tools and wood and whatnot and that way in the future you have your own crap and will save a ton of money and make your own designs. Shoot, i cut sheets of wood and made walls with a damn jigsaw... and at the pawn shops by me they go for $15, circulars for 20.
about that RE calc., isnt it only for 1 subwooder box? i want to make one for 2 R's.
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hey thanks people for all your advice, i really do appreciate it. i want to double baffle it. i can go to Lowe's or Home Depot and i think they can do the cut outs. and all have to do is the gluing and the holes.i honestly dont know the steps on building a box. can someone tell me the steps in detail please? do you guys use that RE calculator to build your boxes? thanks.
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hey just wondering. you think a T1 12" can take 1000 rms easy or how much you think it can take daily. thanks.
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get the 2 type-rs but make sure they are not blown; that sounds like a shady deal.
oh oh yeah thanks for the tip. i wasnt born yesterday
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All things being equal, the 2 r 12s will walk the re 15.
OR! opti1232d with that box (avatar) powered by a opti1400d. i can get this for cheap right now. their is this guy, hes willing to trade my type r and my box for 2 type r 12's (dual 2 ohm) with a cheap prefab box. and im planning to get a custom box for those two. what do you think? anyone im open to any opinions
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What did I do wrong?
in Tint
Posted · Edited by imupabove
hi. me and my buddy tinted my car. its been 2 days now. their are bubbles and lines, that i dont know where it came from. he said it will go away in a couple of days. im going to have to re-do everything anyways because i dont think he cleaned the windows very well :[. or didnt get all the liquids out between the tint and window well. not bad for a first timer though but i am not happy with it. can someone please tell me base one these, what you think we did wrong? on one of those pics the tint is crumpled due to anger (not me). i should of paid attention of what he was doing, i thought he knew exactly what he was doing. oh well we learn from our mistakes. ANY tips are appreciated! thank you. here are some pics... .
20% fronts 5% rears
this piece is definitely going to replaced