teamace24
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Posts posted by teamace24
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maybe theyre just not loud midbasses....every speaker is different...maybe you got some with sucky midbass?
Man this will suck if your right these components cost me $200 brand new and are rated for 150 rms each side (i got the 07 model). However, you might be right since i bought sme $60 phoenix gold and they are louder off a cheap 100 watt amp than these are off 400 watts. I just know they can get louder since they are high quality and can take a lot of power.
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anything coming out of the rear ones?
When i able them yes but also very low output. Im really starting to think 1 of two things amplifier sucks since it is old or my doors have to be dynamatted i just do not know which.
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look at your crossover and take your woofer connections off of RAF, trust me that's the "problem". I have Diamond Components and what you are describing is exactly what happens when you hook up to the RAF instead of woofer
Raf i believe are for the rear fill which means the 2 back door speakers.
I do have some connected in the back doors but i disabled them thinking that was the problem but it wasnt. My fronts which are my diamonds are hooked up to the woofer slots and my 2 back speakers are hooked up to the raf.
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this might sound stupid, but did you check your connections and are you sure you aren't using the RAF instead of the woofer output on the crossover?
Yeah my connections are right im starting to think that i should try switching my amp to another one but only if you guys can guarantee me that putting dynamat on the doors instead of stock like i have it will not change my problem. I only want the mids to be very loud in voice i could care less if they can hit those 80hz notes.
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what freq is the hpf at? it should be like 80-100hz, the knob will have some numbers on it so just give it a guess as to where that is.whats the eq like? do the xovers have a+3db tweeter option or anything like that?
Yes my frequency is at 90hz and yes my xovers have a tweeter option exactly with the db you stated but when i upped this it only made my tweeters even louder so i left it normal.
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make sure ypour hps is switched to ON if there is such a switch on your amp. make sure u didnt accidentally mess up the wiring from the crossovers.
Yeah my hpf is set to on and i do get some voice from the mids although very low so im sure my crossover wires are connected right. Also if i buy dynamat or that peel and seal stuff from lowes do you think i will get a huge difference in loudness since my doors dont have any are they are not the most sealed doors you ever seen at all.
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Play around with the gain, as well as the HPF/LPF
Idont really know much about car audio but im just trying to help you out.
Yeah i dont know if i have to reword my question maybe thats why im not getting responses but yeah i have the filter allowing from 80hz to up and the gain a little less than 1/2 but im not getting loud mids like i want the voice from the songs to be loud from there like my mids from my ram truck with only 30 watts to each side are.
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Any suggestions will help i really want my front stage to be louder with my 2 15 aq sdc that are going in the next couple of days. My mids do not have to have the bass but i want the voice coming out of them to be really loud like old school jbl and pioneers 6x9 used to be.
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Ive had 2 12 l7, 2 15 l7, three kicker cvr12, as well as 2 kicker cvr 15. They all definitely got loud but they really suffer without the proper HUGE ported boxing especially the l7. If you want loud obnoxious in even a sealed small crappy box but lacking in lows they do the job for pretty cheap. Out of all of those i listed i would only go with the 2 12 l7 or the 2 kicker 15 cvr which highly impressed me off a 1608d hifonics they took it like a champ and were just as loud if not slightly less than 2 kicker 15 l7 in the same crappy sealed same spec box same power, i wouldnt mind running a pair of 15 cvr in a big ported box or big sealed box they pound for really cheap. Im out of those kicker days and picked up some Audioques.
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I have a yukon 2007 and i installed an Mtx 4 channel MXA4004 amplifier bridged to a set of Diamond Audio Components hex s600 6.5 inch mids and two tweeters. I am not running the 2 back door speakers since i dont want to buy some and do not plan on it i just want a front stage. So my front doors are not dynamated or sound deadened at all all stock. I have the crossovers that came with the components connected as well. I am bridging the amp to 2 channels so i am giving 200 watts rms x 2 at 4 ohms. Now my tweeters are loud and nice but i put my head down near the two doors and i swear there is sound but no where near the sound my tweeters are giving me. My gains are set right but i have no midbass at all just voice but not loud at all. For 200 watts to each side i was expecting a very loud midbass to go along with the loud tweeters. I have been playing it like that for a couple of months but only because my tweeters are very loud enough. Is it my lack of dynamat or any sound deading? Any info will help i installed some $60 phoenix gold components in an old school dodge ram running 60 watts total to them and the midbass was very loud and these $200 components specifically the midbass i cant get loud voice and midbass sound out of.
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Ok after tweaking the expo calculator all day i think i have a finished product i can put to test. My box for a pair of sdc 2.5 15 will be as follows. 47 wide, 18 tall, 26 deep. The port dimensions will be 8.5 width, 16.5 tall, and 20 inches deep. I entered 8.5 on the calculator as the port height as i was told to do my the creator of the software. Subs displacement total is .3. I am using .75 mdf and sub and port to rear. I came up with 8.58 net volume, 35.98 tuning, as well as 140.25 port area. Please let me know if all of this is right. Also since my port is 20 inches long my actual wood cuts will be 16x16.5 for the first port plate and then it bends to get the remainder 2.5 inches to equal 20 inches total long so therefore my actual port 2 plate cut will be 2.5x16.5. Since my front baffle will overlap my port 1 cut my port 1 length will be 16.75. Please let me know what you guys think.
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put smallest port dimension in for height
this will change ur tuning
I just got help for my port calculations using the expo calc from torres and he told me i entered the values for my port wrong instead of putting 8.5 for the height i put it in the width which he let me know that the value that goes in to the port height is the value from the port wall to the box. So my real values for my box including my total sub displacement of .3 is 8.93 net volume, 37.54 tuning, and 140.35 port area. I need help in getting my tuning to 35 hz or just above it but not past 36 hz. I need to know if i will need to bend the port after the initial 16 inches long and if so for how much longer. Any help will be appreciated.
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you wont really notice 2hz of tuning. AQ subs are designed (correct me if im wrong) to play WELL below tuning w/o bottoming out.
I really rather go with the 35 hz tuning and not more as i got a lot of advice on the tuning to be this way with people who metered their setup with audioque subs. I do know they play well below tuning but i want to optimize the sound i am looking for as i listen to a lot of spanish that contains very low bass lines.
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put smallest port dimension in for height
this will change ur tuning
So am i entering the values wrong in the port boxes wrong? My lowest is the port width which is 8.5 and if i enter that in the port height i get a tuning slightly over 37 which i do not want, is this right? and if so how do i fix it if i want similar net volume but 35 hz tuning. Thanks.
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According to Expo's calc #s look to be - 8.68ft3 net(after port/sub(s) displacement), 140.25in^2 of port area, and a 41.1hz tuning.. This was using port length of 16".... Using a 16.75" port length the only difference you see is a tuning of 40.71hz + 8.6ft3 net, which is so small it wouldn't make a difference.
Using the woofers + power you're running I wouldn't suggest running that large of an enclosure, that high of a tuning, or that much port area... I'd suggest like 8ft3 @ 35hz w/ 100-115in^2 of port area for the woofers/power you're running.
To calculate bracing just find the volume of a cylinder(what ever size dowels you're using) and add that final number into the sub displacement box(at least when using Expo's calc).
I'm a little drunk so I wouldn't exactly quote me 100% on all these numbers lol.
Wow are you sure since i am using that exact same calculator and when i enter 47 wide, 26 deep, 18 high, and the port i enter 16.5 height, 8.5 width, and for the length i enter 16 or 16.75 i get box tuning 8.99 with a tuning frequency of 35.15. Please double check this as now my build is on hold since first off i do not want my tuning to be above 35.5 or 36 hz and as far as the volume i want as close to 9 net as possible for the lows.
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About to start on my box this weekend for my 2 Audioque sdc2.5 15 subs and had some questions that would help me a lot. First my box will be as follows and i need to know if anyone can figure out my tuning and what net volume my subs will see. My box will be 47 inches wide, 18 inches tall, and 26 inches deep. The port height will be 16.5 inches tall, 8.5 inches wide, and this one is confusing but either 16 inches or 16.75 inches long if i include my front baffle where my subs will go. My subs and port will fire to the rear of the truck and wood is .75 inch thick. AMp is Aq 1200d. My last question is my most important one. I need to know how to calculate the bracing volume that a dowel rod will take up since that is what i want to use for bracing. Like how do i calulate the cubic feet in volume that a dowel rod bracing will take up. I know it has something to do with dividing by 1728 but can you help. Thanks.
Mids are almost non existent please help!!!
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Im not saying your wrong but i am hoping i dont have to replace these i spent 200. If i do what components will take that 150 rms to each side and be very loud in voice like which do you recommend. I only want to run the two front doors.