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Posts posted by nCOMP1337
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i prefer alienware, but i get a huge discount on dell laptops because my college has a deal with them, the studio 16 from dell i am getting, i get a 500 dollar discount, which amounts to roughly 25% of the entire price
but i think dell is best for the money, unless you want high end and if your gonna spend a lot, go ahead and go alienware
also,. find what you want on the site, and im sure you could find the same thing on ebay somewhere for a lot cheaper, some of the laptops i was looking at was selling on ebay for a few hundred bucks cheaper
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Box outside dimensions will be 12 x 20 x 38
The black area is 1 inch wide all around. The green area is the entire port which is nearly the whole box, each area is measured in its entirety and the 45 angles were not accounted for. I am planning on three 10s right now for my car, i could have larger subs but in order to have more space in my trunk and not have to modify my trunk in any way then 12 inches is the tallest i can have the box allowing me to have it as close to the back seats as possible. I was wanting a 1/4 or if i have to at least an 1/8 wave Tline box. I hope i did the design right, i have seen where people have made subs firing into the port directly and thats not as good, so thats why I have the small opening into the actual port area from the sub area. The specs I drew this up on were 37 Hz i think with a 10 inch sub.
I am curious what others think and if they think this will work. I understand with more subs you have to account for adequate cubic feet for each sub and port area, so I am hoping these will work alright in this box.
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i always just create my own, i typically use plain black background though as its easy on the eyes, but im a photoshop whore so i always did it that way
fractals are cool though, google them, or any kind of space stuff, the galaxies and stars always looks sweet
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yea, them funky pups are amazing, i couldnt believe my old 6x9s had a bigger magnet then them, lol
but them pups are banging subs =)
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i believe Fi is cheaper but both are incredible subs from what ive seen
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yea, major brands, i just try to stay away form, except certain models of kicker, RF, Pioneer and MTX, besides that i dont really think the others are worth it and these brands for what you get are way to pricey compared to others like FI and DC and SA, quality and efficiency are just so much better when not on these mass produced subs
i think so anyways
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i know all that is fine cause i took an older pioneer radio and installed it and it works fine, changed nothing except took wiring harness out of new one plugged into old one and took the radio ant out and put in new one and plugged in RCAs
everything works fine, just cd player skips at 1/3 volume and shuts off at half
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i would think it would be a bit closer to 9 something
take the average of 35 and 250 and its 142.5 , which would be pretty close to 12 o clock, notice the numbers do not meet at 6 o clock though, so i would take 285 divide by 11 and you get 25.9 , round to 26, so basically each hour is equal to 26 Hz, which puts 5 Hz in between 6 and 7, which would make 7 o clock about 50 , 8 would be 75 , 9 would be 100 , 10 would be 125 and 12 would be about 150, now this is pretty close to my earlier suggestion that 12 is about 142 since its the average of 35 and 250, but taking into account that n umbers dont go all down to 6 and it ends about 5 instead of its original starting point id say this is close
so every minute is equal roughly to 5 Hz, but we will say 4 Hz since 250 doesnt complete a circle, so 80 Hz would be equal to 20 minutes or 4 total Hour skips (from 35 Hz roughly between 6-7 , to 80 Hz which is around 9)
35 is a 6.5 , so we will say 3 minutes to 7 , makes it 47 since i said each 1 minute notch equal roughly 4 Hz, so another 5 to 8 o clock makes 67 , then we have 13 left to get to 80, so 12 is another 3 notches so that puts it at 8:43 roughly, making the total Hz at 79, so just in between 8:43 and 8:44 should be 80Hz
7 = 47
8 = 67
8.5 = 77
8.66 = 80 Hz
here is an image with the dial actually at the point im talking about
i wont say its exact, but its gotta be close
EDIT: damn, every number 80 (eighty) is damn emoticon, LOL
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looking good, sweet color, cant wait for a vid of the new cherrymeade disturbing the peace
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I got a pioneer deh-1100MP cd player for y car, brand new last may, and when i turn the volume up to 20 it skips as if the cd is scratched, but ti does the same on radio and then when i turn it up to 25-30, it just shuts off
i spoke with pioneer and they think its an internal amp problem, but since i have no warranty they wont fix it and there are no places around where i live that fixes them unless i bought them at the place of business
so my question is does anyone know how i may be able to fix this or should i sell it to someone that can on ebay or something and try to find something new
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many people will say treo over JL i think because its an enthusiasts brand more than a common brand like JL
brands like FI, RE, DD, AA, sundown, treo, i never heard of any of them until i got interested in car audio and began researching, no one where i live knows of any of those brands, and brands like FI and RE and DD, take a lot more car into their products and they are not as massively produced, some of those brands dont even build the subs until you order them, they seem to be on a more personal level with car audio people than JL and other common brands you might find at walmart, or best buy, or hh gregg or various other places
almost always if you have to special order anything, or buy something that isnt sold in most stores, that typically sell items like that, its going to be higher quality product than those massively produced and shipped out everywhere
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trying to pass off this insomnia to someone, gotta be at work in 1 hour and no sleep in long time
oh and posting around SMD
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front bumper not fully white, because of the shadowing, should be more realistic that way, windows, side strip, rims, back bumper, all be turned whitish
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hope all goes well
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now that i think about it, doesnt the same guy own bother Fi and AA or at least make the parts, i think i read that in a discussion about the parts for an 18 inch crossfire that is very similar to the SMD/AA subs
and yes i agree you should only try to put the rated power or even a bit less to the subs, unless your a pro with audio and wiring, i think steve said in one of his vids when he was taking out the Fi BTLs and replacing them with the SMD/AAs that he was getting twice the rated RMS out of those BTLs but he said you have to be pro and know what your doing
so id stick with the rated RMS any 15 of those brand will be powerful enough as it is
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welcome, and nice truck, nice speaker setup as well, clean build
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im a AudioNoob so this comment is based from my experience in the research ive done trying to begin my first car build
well i think everyone can say those are all respected brands, i would suggest comparing the t/s parameters of the subs, see how they compare and for what price gets you what kind of power, also as someone already stated some subs are capable of more power than is rated so for that of course you would need to hope someone with experience with those subs will comment
i know rockford fosgate is good brand,but i would lean more towards the others, either Fi or treo, ive never seen the nightshades so i couldn't comment on those, AA is nice too or else steve wouldnt have gotten his own line, although i think they were specially made so they may not be anything like the other lines of AA except for brand
not sure the price on the treos, but i know FIs have some nice power for reasonable price id think, also i suppose it depends on what you plan to hook them up to, how compatible they may be to the amp/s you plan to use and if you want room to upgrade or use these subs with as much potential as you can grab from them
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im having the same dilemma, but i plan on going with 3 10s and i have a lot less space to put it in, but it seems you got plenty of space, are you wanting a more basic build or something a bit more difficult, like bass reflex, or Tline?
i have a few designs ive drawn up for 3 10s, maybe one may work for 3 12s, after i recreate them on photoshop, ill upload here and see what others think, but you amy already have a sweet design by then
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ive never made animated avatars like that, i mainly make animated sigs for forums, but i animate eevrything in photoshop and edit it there too
i know its not as easy but i am just particular to photoshop
longest animations i ever made was like 300+ slides
but ill check out that vidgif, thanks
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if you cant afford photoshop, then please go the legal route unless you do things otherwise cannot be discussed
however the is theGiMP which is a free program like photoshop
or there is sumo paint which you can use directly in your browser and many people think its better than photoshop
i think the url is www.sumopaint.com
i got my photoshop from college so i was very lucky, lol
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looking to buy new amp think about HIFONICS BXi2006D
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
as far as i have seen, at least for the brutus line of hifonics, they do around rated, but i think they may rate their stuff at 14 v, which means on a stock system it would look like it isnt doing rated, i havent seen whether ti says one way or other, some amp will show you what they do at 14v which is what they advertise their power at, but they also show what they do at 12 v, depends on the amp manufacturer, i havent seen how hifonics rates their stuff, but in my own thread people said its alright amp