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nCOMP1337

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Posts posted by nCOMP1337

  1. at a vas of 791 liters, the tline or horn would have to be 10x that in length, not worth it. build at least a 10-12 cube (16 or 20 would be better) ported box and call it good.

    gthe length of a tline has nothing to do with vas, its completely based on the Fs of the sub , you take speed of sound..1130 ft/sec and divide it by the Fs to get a whole wave, then divide that number by 4 to get the quarter wave length which is what most tlines are, quarterwaves

  2. rcas should be ran on opposite side of the car as power wire, i think that can cause interference, its at least what ive read multiple places when looking into wiring my stuff

    power wire and ground should be wired most easily on the side your battery sits and rcas wired on other side

    can someone confirm or deny

  3. my first subs were legacy's they took 400rms each for 2 weeks and died, they were rated at 1400 watts but supposedly handled 700rms, i had a kenwood excelon 1200rms amp on them, pushing 400 each at 4 ohms (my first amp, loved that beast, it was awesome), but it proved too powerful,i had that same amp run two cadence 6x9 150rms midbass drivers for a month and they took it like a champ, and i still have them today

    im sured we all have our first times in car audio stories, but as stated research, research, research, i got heavy into car audio last christmas when i got my amp to go with those subs, since they blew, i had a pair of 15inch kicker cvrs and now i have a fi ssd 12, i will finally do my first big build box and all in feb, ive been using prefabs and such to this point

    we are all here to help.....well most of us, im noob, so i try to always makes sure you now its my opinion, or i ask for confirmation because i have no experience what i know is all form research and reading these forums

  4. Just to touch a few things you said. Set your eq flat. Then set your amp gains. This way say some songs have a shitload of bass. You could THEN turn your bass down -1 or -2 and then songs with less bass or whatever you could keep at 0 since that is where you set your gains at. Set everything flat. Set the gains. Then if something needs adjusted go - on the eq. Turning anything up is very likely to cause a clipped signal. And also. Don't turn your radio volume up to 40/40. Try 32/40. Also by doing this. If some songs are a little quieter then other you can go to 33-34 and get a little of the difference back. Once you start cranking stuff stuff doesn't play right and doesn't play for long.

    The EQ on the head unit? It only has presets as far as I know. It's at flat, always has been. It's the only one that has decent treble and doesn't boost the bass ridiculously

    I've already set my amp gains and they are right where I want them. The idiots at the shop had them turned way too high and it was overpowering the highs.

    Nobody read that the phone is at 12/14?? Doesn't that count for something? If I turn the phone to 13 or 14 it DOES distort the highs.

    Anyways, toot it and boot it WAS clipping. I opened it up with audacity and it hit the red - btw, does it stay red the whole song if it clipped once? Would it be ok to just walk away, come back in 3 minutes when the song is finished playing and find the red marker there still, indicating the song has clipped at one point or another?

    And where can I get an oscilloscope, what does it do, how much are they and how do I use it?

    im pretty sure flat is a preset but since you said your treble is +5/+7 i assume that changes the flat preset, flat the way i understand sets everything to 0, which is where you want it to set your gains

    someone confirm or deny, im noob so probably shoudlnt give advice, lol

  5. i think that heavily relies on tuning, box tuned to certain Hz will handle a particular range much better than a wider range, like yours tuned to 30 may handle anywhere form 25 to 35 fairly good depending on subs, but it may not hit 40Hz very well, different notes in music hit at different frequencies so frequencies within your boxes tuned range will hit hardest

    that sound alright to anyone else...clarification, lol

    also even if you think its stable, unless your showing o-scope proof, never put h/u at maximum volume, in my reading ive seen most people stay around 75-80% of max and people that go higher still stay a few under max, i dunno max may be alright if tuned appropriately but i still wouldnt put it at max even if clean wave, id back it to 36-38

    and as was stated audacity is god for boosting, editing songs

  6. there was another poster who said something like that, so wouldnt you quote the person your talking in which your referencing, anyways as was said for my post i think the guy that stated the opinion about the mono or multis, was also meaning that it is best or at least typically practiced that most people use monos for subs and multis for mids/highs...some people may whole heartedly agree this iks how is must be done, just because thats how theyve always done it or because they believe in better efficiency, i dunno

    i dont have a problem with people using multichannel amps, but the guy was talking about getting a new amp and not necessarily using the one he already has, so thats why i was stating the info ab out the amp he posted and why he could get a more powerful monoblock amp for just a bit more and it would work out better

    to each there own, im all for that, i have a neighbor that swears by lightning audio and they just wont listen to reason, lol i was just trying to help, i have still not done my first major build but ive been doing research for a year, so i was just sort of suggesting the OP uses the search button on the site or google a bit, if after research he still wants to do the same thing, then its cool, but i beliueve in getting the best bang for your buck and if you can do that while also getting quality, efficient equipment, why not

    what im referring to is that he stated he could get a 4000w amp for 180, (anyone in car audio that doesnt use RMS and assumes that any number in fornt of a w is what the amp will put out, needs to do more reading is what i believe), he stated that like he was getting an amazing deal and he might be if the amp puts out 2000rms, 1000 per channel like it states, but if he is gonna spend that much money, he could save slightly more and get a known quality amp which is also a class d mono

    this i think is one of the main reasons TeamHT told him to go do more reading, albeit he should have told him why except for a generalization g of you dot know what your talking about, lol but thats why i added thew info in my post about the amp he was talking about..........thena gain much of this is just my opinion i understand

    Yeah, I agree with you on everything. I missed that OP was wanting to get a new amp, I thought people were trying to talk him out of that one (that cheap) amp and I was just trying to say it will work. There was one poster who told him to ditch the multi channel and when another poster suggested a mono would be better, I just mis-read it to say you couldn't use a multi like that. Now that I read it again I see what he was saying.

    Any thoughts on this Hfi Amp in reguards to the JL Audio 15.

    HFi1000D - Hifonics Monoblock 1000 Watt HFi Series Amplifier HFi-1000D

    Someone else can chime in on Hifonics, I don't know much about them, however this amp here will work well with your sub.

    Hey awesome! I was just looking at that EXACT amp last night. Might have to go for it!

    i believe the hifi line of hifonics amps is not good, and doesnt do rated, but thats based on multiple opinions and thread readings, for me it seems majority of hifonics users go for the brutus line unless they get the big amps hifonics offer like colossus

    that rockford amp is nice, i actually just sold mine to buy a fi ssd, lol and then im buying an aq1200 to run the fi ssd, that is also a good price for new, mine was 100 even slightly used and i sold it for 125, lol

    that amp did me well, blew 1 fuse once, but was user error, never gave me an issue since, never got hot for me, it ran 2 15 inch kicker cvrs

  7. how the hell do you design that? and yea can that be printed or something on the shirt?

    sick bro

    lots of photoshop time, lol

    i needed something to do, to break up my time spent on my photoshop final....for that i am recreating a god of war wallpaper in photoshop, basically sort of like digital painting, its tedious work, but so far outcome looks nice, it can be seen here......theres roughly 90 layers of stuff there,lol

    47579_108640599209097_100001894711672_71543_1296639_n.jpg

  8. yea it would have to be printed by a full t-shirt screen, fulll color press, lol...i would probably have to print separations or something unless they had an automated press that can digitally read the color output

    dunno how they do full shirt screens, but yea most MMA clothing companies do full shirt screen printing

    all else fails i can just downsize the logo to fit fully on the shirt, a few guys on the facebook said its sort of hard to read audioque, so i may edit it or make some more

    only thing that sucks is i have limited time due to 3 final projects in college, but i am poor and could really use some nice components, lol i will probably come up with more designs

    if they end up not liking it, i may ask if i can use their name and print it myself, as i plan to buy an AQ amp in january/february so maybe i can sport the company, lol

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