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Posts posted by nCOMP1337
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yea ive only come into contact with one other person so far that knows more about car audio than just kicker brand
everyone else i thought knew stuff before i started researching and learning myself all really know nothing and either got lucky with a setup, got a dealer to install, or keeps blowing their stuff up
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it looks like igt has one of those hard plastic surrounds, maybe with that o ver the sub measured from nd to end is 16 inches, maybe the guy just doesnt know how to measure a woofer
thats not too far from me, im in kokomo, indiana, i have seen quite a few ads like that on my local craigslist as well as the one for indianapolis, most people around here do not know what they are doing when it comes to car audio
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yea, i would go with no bass boost, a smart man once told me, if you cant get the sound out of the subs that you want without adding bass boost or other boost via head unit, then you should probably upgrade your subs
not to say you cant have the boosts and the subs will be fine, i guess its users choice
i have everything on my head unit set to 0, bass is -2 and bass boost on amp is 0
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yea, i used to have the amp it is 1 ohm stable, and i believe it also has the inputs for 2 speakers but i am sure they are not bridged they should function as two different channels even though it is a mono amp, i know my mono rockford fosgate prime 500 amp has 2 channels that are bridged, which i hate, because whatever i input ito it it dropes an ohm load which i didnt want, but it still works just as well
i really liked that amp, never gave me an issue, its probably the only series of amp id recommend from kenwood
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lol, luckily my electrical is not bad, i did have turn signals though, but it was one of the filaments for the brake lights, both side were gone, not sure when or how it happened but im glad it is fixed
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alright found the issue, the guy about the dual filament was right
i checked them but i found out that even though it looked like it was connected, one of the filaments was all there but the connection
was just barely not touching, lol
dunno if the subs rattle it off, or if it just broke partially due to other factors, i doubt the subs would be at fault i do not have much of a system in the way of power, just running about 200rms to two 15 CVRs
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thanks ill check the bulbs out today and ill google for some info on my car too
btw i got an 99 olds alero
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well i believe in my last post, i stated that the lights work every way they are supposed to except for when you press the brake pedal, i took bulbs out and looked at them, nothing seems to be busted or fried, but i think i may have a replacement in my glove box, just to be sure i will replace it with new bulbs, but since those lights turn on at night, i would think thats not the problem
is there a special wire or fuse somewhere where it tells the lights to turn on when pedal is pressed, maybe i tripped something that goes from pedal to brake lights, but just by exchanging cd players i doubt it
must be something else and just happen to not notice it until i was told when i had replaced my cd player
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yea lights work in every way possible except when i pores brake pedal to let people know im braking, lol the third middle light works when braking but thats it
im thinking its just a coincidence that it was noticed when i changed my h/u , i check ed every fuse in the car and i uninstalled the h/u and tried to press brakes and nothing happened so it wasnt the h/u and i didnt cut any wires except for what was attached to my old wiring harness from my other h/u (i had wires clamped together instead of taped)
but still i need to figure out what the deal is with brakes, cant drive too long like that, im not sure if its legal if only the third one is working
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ill check it out again, i am sure i uninstalled the h/u and checked and they still didnt work, it could just be a weird coincidence, but ill look mnore today, hope i cna find out, cause my other car wont be ready to drive for 3 weeks so i need to make sure i wont get pulled over, lol
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I replaced my pioneer h/u with a newer kenwood (only cause it was free, like pioneer better myself) system sounds a lot better, but now my brake lights dont work
i thought maybe a wire was exposed or hooked up wrong, so i checked everything again and all wires are hooked up to appropriate ones, ground is good, nothing is exposed, and have no blown fuses, my little third light that is on the trunk is the only one that works, bulbs are good in the lights as well, so im lost
anyone experience this before or have some insight
please and thank you
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lol, yea i missed a spot, so easy to see where it is, but oh well
yea i could do reflection but i really dont have a lot of time to photoshop but this gives the impression of what they would look like if they were installed, so close enough to get the idea i think
i used t photoshop all day long, but full time work and school now leaves little for fun
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it says directly on the amp, that the speaker terminals are wired internally in parallel
it doesnt have more than 1 channel, but it has 2 inputs which are wired together internally to work as one
that is why i thought that it would drop an ohm load when two speakers are wired to it
i can get a picture of the part on the amp directly under the speaker terminals where it states what i just said if you do not believe me
i know its mono block, but the 2 pos and 2 neg inputs that it has are wired together internally
i only mentioned that because i had a mono block previously that was setup up the same way, only it did not have the speaker terminals wired in parallel internally
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just listened to the entire cd today, very nice, never heard psyph before except for steves videos, i like it a lot
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id say it would take way more than 825 rms to be too loud to listen to, even in a good box, but then again some people think some stuff is luder than others, maybe im just going deaf, dunno
i know im running 2 15s at 250 rms and i have had some people say its too loud and i only listen to it at 13, cause my components cant handle much louder as they are stock, so its really personal preference
there are daily drivers on here that are well over 10k rms, granted not everyone will be happy to hear it and the people with powerful systems like that may not even listen to it as loud as it can be
but as the person above said, its best to build it and see, you cant really simulate car audio much because tons of factors go into how they outcome will be
you could have heard the same system, built exactly the same in two exact same cars, same power and everything and i bet they would both sound different, may not be able to be noticeable to most, but would still be different id think
also, if the amp is brand new form when you bought it, why dont you list it for what you paid or best offer
ior check ebay or craigslist and see what the amp or one like it is selling for
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due to some unfortunate problems i can only access the site through a proxy, there is a mod trying to find out why i cant access the site normally, but so far no clue
due to how i have to access the site, if i open a link it doesnt work for some reason
could anyone please message me with the link to the download so i can check it out
thank you
EIDT: thanks to BJD3 for getting me the link
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here is a photoshop with the rims
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i am upgrading to adobe cs5 right now, i can have a try when its finished installing
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no Internet isnt stolen, its just this site that wont work for some reason
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thanks
im not sure if i will have room for builds, but it is a section i thought about adding yesterday
i gotta add a funky pups section too and a few others i remembered yesterday
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thanks everyone for helping
i plan to get 1 picture for each brand, sub, amp, battery etc., and then the pictures will be linked to the company websites
hopefully ill get all the good brands in, if i end up working this into a site, maybe more can be added later
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i have that exact amp, pushing my 15s, but mine gets a bit hot after 30min or so of straight playing (if im out driving and amp doesnt sit long before using again)
however i got mine for the same price, i personally hate the type of terminals it uses, ive never liked those type, but it pushes my 15s nicely, giving about 200 or so rms to each 15, my birthsheet said 583 rms at 2ohms, i assume yours is the same
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awesome, lots of info thanks a lot
there can be more than 10, i just wanted at least 10, if theres enough ill go 15-20
thanks for the details freshman, that will save me a bit of time
im hoping this will prove slightly educational, too many people around where i live are all about kicker and mtx cause all we have is the mass produced brands, or got pay extra to get something from a local shop which there is not much of
@smgreen20, you are right i forgot about h/u's i will have to check out some of the brands for them as well, im a pioneer guy myself so i havent looked much into other h/u's
i just now thought, i could also do a section for specialty items like ipads or carputers, dunno if there is enough ehre to make a whole section on
are there sites that specialize in information only on quality brands? curious cause i basically have to create a website that will work in powerpoint, just wondered since i got all the layout and info done once this project is complete and i can host online for free, maybe i could put this up as an informational site for quality car audio brands
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might wanna finish what you were saying before we can help you
lol i noticed that and went right away and edited it and fixed it, the site is really messed at school and they wont let me put firefox on computer, they use IE and it make each post take up nearly a whole page (equal to scrolling through like 10 reasonably sized posts) and when it ry to reply or post it moves so I cant hit the button, very weird
but its been fixed, right now im making the background and buttons for the presentations
my pages will be, in no particular order
subs
amps
component speakers
wiring (will consist of wiring diagrams)
the big 3
alternators and where you can get good ones for car audio
batteries and good brands (i may need help on this one, i know of kinetik, xs power, optima)
t/s parameters
different wire gauge sizes
termlab
enclosures
dynamat (various brands)
also every image i have has to be credited and linked, so every image of a sub or amp will be linked to the company that owns it adn same goes to any other picutre i use
photoshop help please
in Photo-Shop Gurus - Show off your photo-shop skills here.
Posted · Edited by kynto
i normally dont photoshop much as im normally busy, but i really liked your build log so i thought id give it a go, rear wheel kind of looks funny as I tried to get the chrome reflection on the inner wheel