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nCOMP1337

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Posts posted by nCOMP1337

  3. SMD/AA 15 T-Line HUGE BOX 16.7 cuft

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by kynto

    I had fun with this, was just curious how large it would be and it is quite big, I've been told T-Lines arent good with high amounts of power, but as I said this was just for fun, 1 SMD woofer cost moe than my entire setup, so no way would this come to fruition at least not by me

    This box has a lot of port, mainly due to its nearly 16 inches of mounting depth

    SUB: SMD / AA 15

    Dual 2

    Fs: 30.1

    Qms: 4.99

    Qes: 0.29

    Qts: 0.27

    Sd: 810cm^2 (half of actual port area, lol)

    Mounting Depth: 15.75 including stud

    Outer Diameter: 15.625

    Cutout Diameter: 14.125

    Sub Displacement: .24 cuft

    Weight: 73 pounds

    Box:

    Outer Dimension: 63 wide x 39 deep x 20 tall

    Inner Volume: 16.65 cuft after displacement (not accounting further bracing)

    Tuned to 29.7 Hz

    Port Length: 114 inches

    Port area: 256 inches (yes tons, not sure how that will affect its functioning within the T-Line)

    Now I think if this worked, 3 of these next to each other or stacked in a walled type of configuration (floor to ceiling) would just be cool, just cause I like T-Lines, for the money spent and functionality you would probably want, much easier way to go about a setup like this of course, I just wanted to see how it would look

    Inside View

    InsideTop.png

    Complete with X ray

    FullxRay.png

    Complete

    Complete-1.png

    Since it will be a while before I can afford my sub, and I have my own design for a box done and too much free time due to no job, I just have a bit of fun trying to design boxes, I wish I knew more about 4th, 6th, and BP designs, those would be fun

  4. Pyle 8" T-Line

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    60hz is way high..

    i know, but that is the Fs of the speaker, not sure what the F3 of the speaker would be, but i dont know how well the speaker would play below tuning, but this should give it a short range, maybe from 55-65-70

    yea, its like a fart box Tline, lol

    considering T-lines are known for getting loud and laying a good wide bandwidth of frequencies, lol

  6. Cadence Amp

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    in terms of quality i think crescendo and audioque are quite close

    i know AQs are underrated a bit i believe not sure about crescendos

    as far as cadence goes, i think it depends on which line of amps do rated and i am not sure which are the ones, but i know many of their amps are good, just dont know which

    i would also suggest AQ1200 over a cadence, AQ is about the best budget quality amp you can get

    crescendo is priced jsut right to compete and it does give good power, but as far as a company, AQ has more time in the business, but that doesnt mean crescendo isnt just as good

  7. port help

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    yea

    so say 1 4 inch port is 5 inches long, the area of that port would be 20 square inches, so say you have 6 of those, thats a combined total port area of 120 square inches

    so here as long as the combined total port area is 120 square inches, you should be fine

    so like 2 6 inch aeros at 10 inches long would net you 120 square inches of port

    this is at least how i see it, read my sig though i am a noob, it is best to allow someone else to chime in, but to me this is how the area would work and as long as the area is the same it should matter, though i do think less bigger ports are better than more smaller ports, so wanting 1 or 2 instead of 6 is a good choice

  9. Pyle 8" T-Line

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by kynto

    Here is the one that is to spec

    31 wide x 11.25 tall x 11 deep

    56 inch port length = 4.67 cuft

    40.5 sq in port area

    Tuned to 60.5 Hz

    For the cut out of the sub, I used 8 inches for the model, because the outer diameter is 8.8 inches, im not sure what the cutout is, so you woudl have to adjust that when cutting it out, but that wont affect anything else

    Cut Sheet List: Based on easiest way to cut (if you can make multiple pieces the same size, i thin that works best, this is how I tried to make the cut sheet)

    Top: 11 x 31

    Middle: 9.5 x 25.75

    Bottom: 11 x 31

    Front: 9.75 x 31

    Back: 9.75 31

    Side without Port: 9.5 x 9.75

    Side with Port: 4.5 x 9.5

    45s: 3.75 (that length is before you cut the actual 45 for the wood, the side of the 45 facing towards the port is 3.75 long, the side facing towards the corner will be shorter after you 45 it)

    any other questions let me know

    basshead15.png

  10. Pyle 8" T-Line

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    well, a U turn box like the one i made, is the simplest to make, less chance of any mistakes, and should perform well, in Tlines i Believe the least amount of turns allows for best performance, if you have the room for a b ox like this, this would probably be the best tline to go for

  11. Pyle 8" T-Line

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by kynto

    to be honest, i am not sure why those particular t/s specs are important for a t-line, ive been told before just cant remember, but i know if you read the quaterwave T-line tutorial it talks about those particular specs and where you want them

    here is a rough estimate based ont he drawing you made and the port area and length needed

    this is just 5 min rough sketch, i can make a much better one in a bit, this was just to see if its what you wanted

    UturnLine-1.png

  12. Pyle 8" T-Line

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by kynto

    are there any other specs you can give? QMS, QTS, QES are each good to know for a tline, because they help determine if the sub would work very well, or so i believe

    you want a qms of less than 7, qes and qts of less than .4

    Fs:60, Qms:5.23, Qes:0.89, Qts:0.76

    it has a good qms, however, qts and qes are twice where you really want them to be

    SAM_0072.jpg

    you are on the right track, the second design in the bottom right would work good, you want the port close to the sub, you got the port length spot on, du to the mounting depth of the speaker and height, you will need at least 9 inch high port and minimum 4.5 in wide port, that would give you 40.5 sq in of port, which is very close to your 41

  20. Question about my Car Audio System

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    better equipment would definitely help, the audio you had is pretty entry level i believe, what size power and ground wire did the shop install, and what fusing did they have on it? If you plan to upgrade, believe me you can UPGRADE to 10s, LOL some beasty 10s available., maybe you meant downsize, anyways, lets us know your budget, plans, car, electrical, and people will try to help you out

  21. subs that will handle 3k under $300

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Your just like my friend, you want to hang with the big dogs on a little dog salary.

    Everyone does this, one kid wanted a system to compare to mine for under 1k total, I was like woah now my alt cost more than half that!

    lol

    i do think decent systems can be had for under 1k, if you take the time to find all the parts it takes, you arent gonna find everything for a good deal at once

    my entire system will barely reach 1k in total cost, it will be a ~2000 rms system, but wont know how decent it is until its built an d is playing, but at least all parts are good equipment

    i hate it when people just want cheap and go to walmart to buy something, if they want to thats fine, but you can still get good equipment for a good price if you take the time to look

    but just saying i want to do that, but im not spending over X amount for it, no can do there, lol

    there is a reason, that 150DB, hairtricks, 160DB, windshield shatter, are all milestones in the car audio world, they are not easy to get

  23. subs that will handle 3k under $300

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    i agree with much of the above, why want to run a lot of power and then cheap out on subs or any part of the build for that matter? if you are running 3000RMS rather than 3000 peak rating, your not gonna find any cheap equipment that will do that, unless it is all used and even then your luckily to find what your looking for, and even you plan on buying decent subs rated less and then overpowering because youve seen that others can do that, you definitely dont want to cheap out on anything, because you really need clean electrical, install etc. to overpower subs safely

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