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bumpinTL364

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Posts posted by bumpinTL364

  1. thanks. the port is only 4" longer than the RE box told me to use, but the rest of the box is bigger.....any way i could transfer those port dimensions into aeroports? thanks for doing that for me too, I owe ya one.

    EDIT: i might be wrong, but shouldn't there be a value for # of common port walls? i feel like i saw that causing the cal to be wrong for someone else, but I just wana check and make sure.

  2. aeroported box is 28.25" wide, 14.25" tall, and 10" deep and using 3/4" MDF. i could fit in the aeroport width wise but because the box is going into a trunk i want everything rear-firing

    just btw max box dimensions are 36" wide, 18" tall, and 16" deep which is more than enough room for this woofer. Just want to box to look somewhat clean when i get her in there

  3. I'm building a box for my girl, and have designed a pair, one aeroported and the other slot ported. These are going to be for a memphis power reference 12" woofer. Memphis gives an optimal ported box volume of 2.25cu ft, port area of 18.75sq in, and port volume of 318cu in. These specs tune the box to 38hz though, which is too high. I'm shooting for 32 hertz.

    First is the aeroported box, 2.4cu ft and a 3in aeroport which is 5.56" long. gives me 7sq" of port area and 39cu" of port volume. This seems a lot too small, but i used two different calculators and both said this would tune me to 32hz.

    leanneboxaeroported.png

    By toml364 at 2011-12-18

    Second is the slot port. used the RE Audio box calculator. Box volume is 2.75cu ft, port area is 36sq" and port area is 1,060cu ft. Tuned to 32 hz again. Can't decide on the best place to mount the woofer on this box. should i put it in the center of the front panel like it is, push it over next to the port so it's in front of the rear port wall, or over to the other side so it fires directly to the port (and doesn't hit the wall)

    leanneboxported.png

    By toml364 at 2011-12-18

    Thanks for lookin!

  4. my good xmas deed...my girl has been lookin at subs for her car for a while, so two days ago we drove an hour to get to the shop she's getting them installed so i could help her out (she knows nothing about subs). ended up leading her down a completely different path from two memphis street reference 12s in a prefab box to a single power reference 12 that I'm going to make the box for her and the shop will use my box for the install. Also made sure she got sound deadener installed, decent wiring, good amp, bass knob, and all the other little details. Will most likely end up building her the box for free and surprise her by covering it in zebra-print carpeting.

  5. I really hope you're right about Pyle making good shit. All the reviews I've read on their stuff (I'm ordering a 2x75watt amp for myself) say they don't put out nearly as much power as they do, and that there's a lot of clipping beyond 60-75% volume. I guess I'll just have to see for myself, but hopefully in the meantime we can find better recommendations lol.

  6. I disagree. I'm still kind of a noob (been on here for a lil while and have learned A LOT!) and I'm going to be building myself my own system (similar setup with sub, 2 tweets and 2 mids) for my own room. The kind of amps your are going to be looking for are plate amps (for your woofer) and Class T amps for your mids and highs. I suggest using a pair of coaxial speakers for your mids and highs so that will minimize the amount of wiring you will have to do. As for components, what you use all depends on how big your room is. If you give me dimensions, I can point you in the right direction.

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